Remington Revolving Carbine

[whughett]

Tried out my recently acquired carbine today. Both Remington #11 and CCI #10 fit. Both required two hammer strikes. All six would go click on the first try then fire on the second. Two cylinders were included with the gun and both did the same thing.

As they would fire I’m assuming just a bad cap fit on the cones rather than a weak main spring.

Any advise from owners/shooters appreciated on after market nipples, size, brand, supplier etc. I’ll need to fit both cylinders.

As an aside the diminutive little gun held a very respectable group at 25 yards with an elbow rest on the shooting bench for a total of 36 shots.

The piece wasn’t advertised as new, but is in a pristine unfired condition , Uberti, fit and finish very good and a very attractive piece of wood on the stock. Came with a nice Plano rifle case and the extra cylinder is in a leather belt pouch.
Incidentally the upper tang on the stock is roll engraved with the year of manufacture, 2018 as well as the usual boxed date code on the barrel.

 

[44caliberkid]

Are you using a cap pusher? A piece of wood dowel with a handle, you use the blunt end to push the caps on all the way. That will solve your problem.

 

[Malachi Leviticus Blue]

As you may already know, your caps are not seating fully because they are either too long or the ID is too small (it doesn't matter which)
if you turn down the cones/nipples you can make those caps fit perfectly.
One way to do that would be to chuck the cones up one by one in a drill to spin and use sand paper to reduce the OD.

 

[Fine Figure of a Man]

The nipples that revolvers come with are often quite short and all caps are not the same. Remington's are taller than most and could be part or the problem.
The resting hammer should almost but not quite touch the nipples. Too much gap and the caps won't detonate. If the hammer is striking the nipples it will cause them to mushroom and prevent the caps from seating properly.
Always though revolving carbines were cool.

 

[whughett]

Are you using a cap pusher? A piece of wood dowel with a handle, you use the blunt end to push the caps on all the way. That will solve your problem.

Actually I use the Keith method., that is I push them down with thumb pressure on the hammer.

 

[whughett]

As you may already know, your caps are not seating fully because they are either too long or the ID is too small (it doesn't matter which)
if you turn down the cones/nipples you can make those caps fit perfectly.
One way to do that would be to chuck the cones up one by one in a drill to spin and use sand paper to reduce the OD.

Well I didn’t today but I will try reversing, Remington 10s and CCI 11’s

 

[woodnbow]

Remington 10’s have been good to me on Uberti revolvers. Come to think of it, other than Ruger Old Armies, I don’t have anything but Uberti cap and ballers...

 

[TheOutlawKid]

On aftermarket nipples my honest opinion is Slixshot being the best nipples on the market. They work great with remington #10 and #11 and CCI #11. They are a perfect fit and you should have no issues with caps so long as you use the ones i mentioned. I prefer Remington Caps above all ..ive never had an issue with them and theyve always fired for me. With CCI's ive had the primer come out of the caps and had they seem to come out with just a little vibration such as if they shake around in the tin in your ammo box while driving or if your holding the tin in ur pocket woods walking...but i never had the issue with remington. Remingtons also dont shatter into tiny pieces that bind the guns works ...they just "petal" but stay as a whole piece.

 

[whughett]

On aftermarket nipples my honest opinion is Slixshot being the best nipples on the market. They work great with remington #10 and #11 and CCI #11. They are a perfect fit and you should have no issues with caps so long as you use the ones i mentioned. I prefer Remington Caps above all ..ive never had an issue with them and theyve always fired for me. With CCI's ive had the primer come out of the caps and had they seem to come out with just a little vibration such as if they shake around in the tin in your ammo box while driving or if your holding the tin in ur pocket woods walking...but i never had the issue with remington. Remingtons also dont shatter into tiny pieces that bind the guns works ...they just "petal" but stay as a whole piece.

Thanks I'll have to give a vendor a call to get the proper size. Dixie lists the Carbine nipple size at 5.5 X 9 mm. VTI lumps the nipples into one group for Uberti by model numbers. Haven't found that size listed on any web page. Did switch up the Cap sizes, Remington and CCI, all require two hammer strikes, both brands, both sizes.
May be it is a weak main spring. I happen to have a new one I ordered for a civil war era Remington NMA. Going to give that a try, I just hate disassembling a brand new gun.

 

[noelf2]

May be it is a weak main spring. I happen to have a new one I ordered for a civil war era Remington NMA. Going to give that a try, I just hate disassembling a brand new gun.

The mainspring for the carbine is not the same. If the main spring is the problem, I bet someone modified it for a weaker strike with a cartridge conversion cylinder. I have been considering doing that to my carbine, but keeping a proper strength mainspring on hand if I ever want to go back to cap and ball.

 

[hawkeye2]

Do not buy factory replacement (Italian) nipples, get a good set of aftermarket ones and be sure your caps are fully seated. Yes, I do realize that all that has been posted here but I wanted to emnphasize that before the next statement. The mainspring on my Uberti Remington carbine was very weak, almost wimpy, and I never tried to bust a cap with it. A friend did a little tuning on it for me and he put in a new Uberti mainspring from Taylors & Co.. The new spring will bust caps but it is only marginally stronger that the one that was in it. The gun will fire but I'm going to look into shiming the spring as it's still weaker than any of my C&B revolvers.

 

[whughett]

The mainspring for the carbine is not the same. If the main spring is the problem, I bet someone modified it for a weaker strike with a cartridge conversion cylinder. I have been considering doing that to my carbine, but keeping a proper strength mainspring on hand if I ever want to go back to cap and ball.

Ya, I had a brain fart on that post. Just had the gun apart and tried a washer under the main spring retaining bolt. that had the opposite effect, would not fire the caps at all. Bought the piece off gunbroker and it’s like new, no signs of ever being fired. The main spring did not look tampered with. Just emailed Uberti’s America importer for parts source and any other input they might have.

 

[whughett]

Do not buy factory replacement (Italian) nipples, get a good set of aftermarket ones and be sure your caps are fully seated. Yes, I do realize that all that has been posted here but I wanted to emnphasize that before the next statement. The mainspring on my Uberti Remington carbine was very weak, almost wimpy, and I never tried to bust a cap with it. A friend did a little tuning on it for me and he put in a new Uberti mainspring from Taylors & Co.. The new spring will bust caps but it is only marginally stronger that the one that was in it. The gun will fire but I'm going to look into shiming the spring as it's still weaker than any of my C&B revolvers.

I’ve two cylinders and I’d prefer not spending the money on 12 nipples, I’ll go the new main spring a go first.

 

[Malachi Leviticus Blue]

If it is taking two hammer strikes to snap the caps as indicated in the OP, then I would be very doubtful of a spring issue. The most likely reason by far for it regularly requiring 2 hammer strikes is ill fitting caps.

 

[woodnbow]

I’m with Malachi... the only time I’ve had this happen it was remedied with caps that fit the nipples.

 

[noelf2]

VTI has parts, but I checked on the carbine main spring and it's out of stock. Only $9 though, and they will get it if you order it. I had a similar problem to yours once. If you are sure it's not the caps, also check that the hammer drops smoothly, and doesn't catch or hesitate on the way down. May need some smoothing.

 

[TheOutlawKid]

Mr.Noelf2 is right. I once had a new 1851 navy from taylors that would catch the hammer in the hammer slot...it would still hit the caps but at a reduced speed and power. You couldnt tell untill you slowly cycled the gun and kept your thumb on the hammer and feel it getting stuck in the hammer slot. Little bit of file work and issue was fixed.

 

[whughett]

Well I’ve tried both sizes of both brands readily available and it’s consistent with both the size 11s’ and the 10s’, CCI 11s’ are loose. I’ve now fired 48 rounds thru each cylinder and there is no marks on hammer to indicate rubbing. Can not detect and hindrances as it’s lowered. The trigger is smooth and light. I’ll order the spring. Don’t mind spending the 6$ plus per nipple if needed, but rather not unless it’s necessary.

 

[44 Dave]

I check the hammer/nipple strike with a paper punched piece of card stock (like cereal box) Is hammer falling far enough?

 

[whughett]

I check the hammer/nipple strike with a paper punched piece of card stock (like cereal box) Is hammer falling far enough?

I will do that. Thank you, good idea.

 

[woodnbow]

I recall another post about the hand spring being too strong and impeding the hammer fall. It was said to have happened to a Colt replica.

 

[Malachi Leviticus Blue]

Most replicas are less than perfect.
However, a perfect hammer strike will fall just short of contacting the nipple.

 

[whughett]

This particular piece, by MSRP has now entered the realm of the more moderate price of metallic cartridge long guns. One world think a little more attention to detail, such as will the bloody thing fire, would be a priority of the manufacture.

 

[arcticap]

I recall that nipples can be shimmed [raised] by flattening a very thin piece of wire and placing it under and around the base of the nipple's threaded stem.
That is if you think that the hammer isn't making solid contact with the caps.

 

[whughett]

I recall that nipples can be shimmed [raised] by flattening a very thin piece of wire and placing it under and around the base of the nipple's threaded stem.
That is if you think that the hammer isn't making solid contact with the caps.

I did try backing the nipples out one full turn. Didn’t help.

Tomorrow is range day and I’ll take the carbine out again. This time bench rest shooting at 50 to 100 yards. Fun even if I have to cycle the cylinder 6 times.

New spring on order from VTI as mentioned they are out of stock so the wait may be considerable.