Removing case lube after full length resizing

Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by Steve in Allentown, Aug 23, 2019.

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  1. Steve in Allentown

    Steve in Allentown Member

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    I owned and shot a benchrest 6mm-.284 for twenty years and always tumbled the cases twice; first after depriming to remove all the powder residue and again after resizing to remove the case lube.

    Recently someone told me there was no need to remove case lube as it doesn't have any adverse effect on the powder. I don't know if he was referring to a specific brand of lube.

    Can anyone confirm this is so?
     
  2. Skylerbone

    Skylerbone Member

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    I use Hornady One Shot and have never experienced a problem. Chrono numbers are where they should be and SDs are low. I used to do the same, double tumble, but not anymore.
     
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  3. cw308

    cw308 Member

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    I'm not sure about that, I clean my cases first , lube size and clean again to remove the case lube .I use Redding Imperial Dry Lube by dipping the base of the bullet into the beads . You don't want any case lube in your chamber. I don't think case lube should be near your powder . I wet tumble , using the dry lube is different then case lube , makes seating very consistent in is smoothness. I would keep doing what your doing and remove all the case lube.
     
  4. jmorris

    jmorris Member

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    Some times I leave it, sometimes I don’t. Any lube will adhere dust and grit. A dry surface is much less likely to do so.
     
  5. South Prairie Jim

    South Prairie Jim Member

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    I’ll be in the minority here and confess that I just wipe um down with an old rag.
    J
     
  6. icanthitabarn

    icanthitabarn Member

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    I wipe em them down, after resize. It seemed to make my tumbling media turn black when I tumbled with the lube
     
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  7. Jack Ryan

    Jack Ryan Member

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    I never "clean" it off.

    At most I'll wear cloth jersey gloves or have a rag handy and wipe it off one that catches my eye as particularly dirty at any one stage of reloading. BUT I do all mine one at a time on a single stage press.
     
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  8. Skylerbone

    Skylerbone Member

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    Rest assured, or not, but it works fine. @Slamfire can show you what lube in a chamber looks like and it doesn’t come from an itty spray can.

    9C0971AD-5ABF-4B1C-A963-139C1D4B77A4.jpeg

    And yes, I’m set up for old fashioned as well, even got my RCBS pad and Lee Lubricant. Simple mica for seating, dip the neck, run it on the brush.
    6A7DB506-D774-4620-A3F7-7E825F8F0AC4.jpeg
     
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  9. cfullgraf

    cfullgraf Member

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    I know that some folks do not clean the sizing lubricant off their cases after resizing. It is their preference.

    I do not care to handle the lubricated cases when I am loading the cases, especially when I am using RCBS Case Lube or Imperial Sizing Wax. I also use lanolin/alcohol lubricant at times and I could almost not clean that lubricant off., it is not so sticky as the other lubricants.

    When neck sizing only, I generally use Mica powder. When in a hurry to load some ammunition, I've bypassed the cleaning step here.

    Finally, I generally resize, prep and clean my cases shortly after shooting. I then store them away for a future loading session. In addition to the previously mentioned reasons to clean the cases, I'd prefer to not store the cases with sizing lubricant left on them.
     
  10. rdnktrkr

    rdnktrkr Member

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    I deprime, vibra clean, lube, size then ultrasonic clean. I like putting car polish in with walnut hulls and use either Lee, Imperial or alcohol and lanolin. After loading I store ammo in vacuum bags.
     
  11. Blue68f100

    Blue68f100 Member

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    I use OS for straight wall brass and do not remove it. For my match rifle brass I use Imperial Sizing Lube and Neck lube, wiping off the lube on the outside with a rag. The inside lube on the necks remains for there is little left after expander is pulled through. If I'm using my bushing dies I do not use any lube on the necks. I live in a very dusty environment, removing the case lube is a requirement unless you want to use abrasives in your chamber and bore. If you by chance drop 1 round, its coated with fine sand here. Not something you want to put in/through your gun.
     
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  12. ArchAngelCD

    ArchAngelCD Member

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    Imperial Sizing Wax is an excellent product which has no need for tumbling. It's water soluble and has no effect on powder. You use very little and I wipe down the case with an old washcloth while inspecting the case after sizing.
     
  13. reddog81

    reddog81 Member

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    I use an old wash cloth to wipe off any excess lube. It’s pretty quick and easy to do 10-20 at a time.
     
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  14. GW Staar

    GW Staar Member

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    I agree with cfullgraf, for the most part....I also don't like to handle sticky, dull, or gritty brass...but, there are times when I don't, depending on which lube was used. If I notice it, it's bad enough to wipe 'em down.....I just don't take the time to tumble again. Tried that and rejected it as not worth the trouble. I load mine one round at a time in a cartridge box, to take to the range.....if they need wiped one at a time it's no bother then.

    Depends on the lube.....I don't like lanolin left on....it gets hard and dull. I've even used a mineral spirits slightly dampened cloth to wipe down a batch of that, left for a month. I can see why some tumble that.
     
  15. Fine Figure of a Man

    Fine Figure of a Man Member

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    It's about time we had another lube thread, hope it stays civil:scrutiny:

    Best option, Spray cases with One Shot, resize, load.
    Another option, apply any greasy lube however you like, resize, wipe with shirt tail, load.
    Both methods work, one is much slower and leaves you with a dirty shirt.
     
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  16. hdbiker

    hdbiker Member

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    I put my lubed & sized cases back in the tumbler for a few minutes. hdbiker
     
  17. cw308

    cw308 Member

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    I see on the Hornady ONE SHOT Spray you can leave it on , l will remove the case lube anyway .
     
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  18. mdi

    mdi Member

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    My handloads have powder on the inside and lube on the outside, and never the twains shall meet...
     
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  19. Skylerbone

    Skylerbone Member

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    So long as the lubricant is powder safe and doesn’t leave clumps on the outside it shouldn’t matter, just preference. @Blue68f100 made an excellent point with terrain being a factor for many.
     
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  20. cw308

    cw308 Member

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    It's only one step for me to remove the lube , then I trim , chamfer , install new primers , I have 0000 steel wool wrapped around a smaller size cleaning brush in my drill press , a quick up and down , remove any dust , powder charge and before seating the bullet I dip the base of the bullet into that Redding Imperial Dry Lube beads and seat , seating is as smooth as silk without changing neck tension . I'm not loading volume only 30 rounds each week for rifle benchrest 308 so going the extra mile an a half is no big deal . Loading larger amounts would be a different ball game . Maybe I shouldn't be in this conversation but just wanted to add in some way if it would help .

    Chris
     
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  21. Rule3

    Rule3 Member

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    I use "water based" lube (and not much of it) so I do not remove it
     
  22. Bwana John

    Bwana John Member

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    Rifle - tumble, resize, deprime, trim, clean primer pockets, champher, tumble with NuFinish, load.... Single or progressive.

    Pistol (on progressive) - tumble with NuFinish, load.
     
  23. whatnickname

    whatnickname Member

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    HORSE HOCKEY!!! Lubricant and primers are a bad combination! And yeah I’ve heard all the hype about how this or that case lube won’t harm a primer. There’s quite a bit of hype out there about Dillion’s case lube not killing primers. That stuff is lanolin cut with alcohol. Lanolin is sheep oil. Oil is oil and I don’t put any oil where it comes in contact with my ammunition. Argue the pros and cons all you want. My ammo always goes bang when I pull the trigger. Want to leave resizing lube on your completed ammunition then have at it! For me...no thank you!!!
     
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  24. South Prairie Jim

    South Prairie Jim Member

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    I’ll probably get blow torched for saying I really don’t use a bunch of lube because my Dies don’t grossly under size, it is very evident if I leave any lube or get a moisture layer from AMBIENTE temperature change on the cases I’ll get heavy bolt lift right away.
    As mentioned I just wipe um down, in fact I do not anneal or tumble brass nor do I give 2cents about runout. I find that to be a non factor in Benchrest disciplines
     
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  25. Slamfire

    Slamfire Member

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    Primers are actually very difficult to dud out. Saeed the administrator of accuratereloading ran a little experiment.

    How to kill a primer

    I removed all but Saeed's comments as the rest were irrelevant.

    I generally lubricate my cases after washing and drying my cases, though there have been times when the turnaround between matches was such, I sized, trimmed, primed, and dumped the powder, and never had a misfire. The guy I got the idea to lubricate 308 Win cases for use in the M1a had been doing this for years. I think his reloading practices were even more barbaric than mine!. He shot the stuff, collected what did not fall down the rabbit holes, rolled the cases in a old towel, already saturated with RCBS water soluble lubricant, put in 22 drops (for one match worth) rolled them around, sized them. He claimed he knew which cases were long by their behavior in the sizing die, and if they were long, he took a file to the case mouth and reduced the length, but did not measure how much he was taking off! He primed the stuff, without washing the RCBS water soluble lubricant, and dumped powder, added a bullet, and shot the stuff. He won every medal you could get in NRA Highpower Competition. Regional Gold's, silver's, bronzes, Camp Perry Gold, silver, bronze, I don't remember if he had a Pres 100, but could have. What counts more than bench rest reloading techniques, in Highpower, is putting the rounds in the X and ten rings. This is seldom addressed, in fact what you read, is that expensive equipment will offset a lack of shooting skills. Lee Land, a winner of the President 100's, his reloading techniques were even worse! Anyway Bud never had a primer dud due to residual RCBS water soluble sizing lubricant. Bud took his cases an entire shooting season without a case separation, which is rather extraordinary, considering the advice at the time was to reload a case, in the M1a and Garand, no more than five times and toss it. I retrieved cases from Bud's who did not lube their cases, and their cases had severe case head stretching at the fifth reload. I mean bad case head stretching.

    I took mine 23 firings, 22 reloads.

    dlrwoUe.jpg

    Never experienced a case head separation with lubricated cases. Absolutely no internal necking or case stretching.

    7W5aJuk.jpg

    6wVgbgx.jpg

    8euIbcN.jpg

    wq6OO1r.jpg

    I don't have any pictures of my 45 ACP ammunition. It all comes off the Dillion 550B dry, but I have been lubing the heck out of the stuff in Bullseye Pistol to improve function and the drop of oil I put on the bullet case junction seems to keep the leading down. I will get back from a match and all I have to do is push a patch down the barrel and it is bright! I still use a brush in the chamber, old habits and all. Oiling cases is messy, but one interesting thing is, oil goes up the barrel and out the back of the chamber. Oil from the cases (with the cheapest Motor Oil, or mineral oil you can find) is squeezed back into the mechanism and keeps the rails/titling lugs lubricated. Which from a function viewpoint with minimum power loads, is actually a good thing. It also keeps the mechanism lubricated. Also keeps my hands lubricated as I am frequently wiping the pistol down after each ten round target. But, as the old timers said "your elbow is the drip point". :eek:

    I have shot thousands if not tens of thousands of lubricated pistol rounds, particularly 9mm. Even though I use a carbide die on my Dillion 550B, an un lubricated 9mm round is hard to size and causes bumps when it bottoms out in the sizing die. (Most of my 9mm is range pickups anyway. I have ammo cans of the stuff, some has clearly been fired in full auto weapons) That has knocked powder out of the powder horn. However, if I lubricate my 9mm cases, the reduction in sizing effort is an eye opener. Not quite effortless, but not far from effortless in a carbide die. Of course I have done the same with 45 LColt, 44 Special, nicked cases of all shapes and sizes. They just glide in with hardly any effort at all. I don't wash off the lube, and the lube could be anything oily or greasy, and all rounds have gone bang.

    Just keep the stuff off the ground or you will have to wipe the dirt off with a rag.
     
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