Removing pesky cosmoline?

Discussion in 'Rifle Country' started by Frog48, Jan 17, 2007.

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  1. Deathrider1579

    Deathrider1579 Member

    Jan 17, 2006
    1. Remove all furniture
    2. Boil 3 - 5 gallons of water
    3. Place metal cosmo ensconced parts into a container of some sort
    4. Pour boiling water over parts and watch with glee as cosmo floats away!
    5. Repeat above until no cosmo comes out
    6. Reassemble gun + furniture
    7. Go to range and have heap much fun!

  2. TimT

    TimT Member

    Dec 14, 2006
    foothills of the Brooks Range
    I find that "Simple Green" if you can find it and likelihood is in the automotive stores. Spray and soak a short time and take your toothbrush and easily comes right off and is easy on your hands.
  3. Cheeseybacon

    Cheeseybacon Member

    Aug 24, 2006
    This is all very good info to know.

    I'm heading to a gun show this weekend and have been playing with the idea of picking up an SKS just for sh*ts and giggles since they're so cheap.
  4. RockyMtnTactical

    RockyMtnTactical Member

    Oct 21, 2006
    I use a heat gun to melt off the excess and wipe down the parts while they are still hot.
  5. Plink

    Plink Member

    Apr 5, 2006
    Like Kevin, I just take mine to the coin car wash. It's the fastest and easiest method I've found. I had tried a lot of other methods from using the dishwasher to heat to soaking to you name it. The car wash just powers it off without much work or mess.
  6. 07Lway

    07Lway Member

    Nov 11, 2006
    Ft. Collins
    I used the boiling water method. It worked pretty good, except the whole time I was just thinking, "I hope I can get all these parts dry before they turn to rust".
  7. buenhec

    buenhec Member

    Dec 27, 2006
    Just did my SKS last week. Used a steamer and it melted right off quickly and cleanly. Then used gun scrubber then went on to clean and lubricate. Dont make an easy task so complicated.
  8. The Guy

    The Guy Member

    Jul 12, 2006
    People's Democratic Republic of Illinois
    I like Simple Green and a brush (automotive round parts brush). Bio Degradeable as well.

    A wall paper pan for doing the stock and barrel, smaller container for smaller parts. DO NOT USE YOUR WIFE'S TUPPERWEAR AND GET CAUGHT!! Very bad idea.
  9. rocketfish

    rocketfish Member

    May 19, 2006
    Don't use any water or oven cleaner on the stock, regardless of what anyone says.

    Metal: Steamer, then Mineral Spirits and toothbrush, then brake cleaner for hard to reach areas like the trigger group.

    Stock: I heat treated it at 150 - 180 degrees F in a "cardboard box" oven, removing it every 15 minutes to wipe down with a rag dampened with mineral spirits. If you're worried about mineral spirits darkening your stock (and I personally don't think it does) use lacquer thinner or acetone. I made the cardboard box oven from a long cardboard box and I cut a square hole for a ceramic space heater at one end. I stuck a $5 meat thermometer into the top of the box. Control your temperature by adjusting the opening of your vent on the side opposite the space heater.
  10. dstorm1911

    dstorm1911 Member

    Nov 25, 2006
    Tucson, Az most of the time
    I have to clean ALOT of milsurps, (usually buy 4-5 a week) I own a trucking company, we have some very good methods for dealing with grease as all the trucks must remain spotlessly clean, I've done the steam cleaner at 3500 psi, its very effective but messy, done the parts washer, works great but gun stinks, We are in Tucson AZ. no shortage of hot days, good for short term but will still have caked cosmo in crevices etc.... the BEST method has been laquer thinner, pull the wood as most is only finished with shelac (which can be removed easily with even de-natured alcohol) if ya wanna get all the oil that was soaked into say an old mauser stock out etc... then wash it with laquer thinner then re-oil with BLO (Boiled linseed oil) this was the original stock finish for all british rifles as well as German, the Russians used it as well but all the re-arsenaled rifles that went through Bulgaria got amber shelac for their new stock finish..

    Two methods with laquer thinner, use a plastic tray (or anything for that metter) long enough to put the barreled action in and let it all soak out then just wipe and re-oil this will take bout 30 minutes of soaking the absolute nastiest rifles OR I like to really get em clean so I detail strip them and clean every screw, pin etc.. don't over look bolts, detail strip the bolt regardless what method and clean it totally, I've bought more "deffective" mil-surps cheap just cause someone used onea the less thourough cleaning methods and low and behold started having bolt issues, I buy em gladly at the discounted "broke gun" price take em home and tear down the bolt, clean out the crusted cosmo and put my now cherry rifle back into reliable service :)

    To clean a dirty oil, cosmo soaked stock DO NOT USE WATER or any water based cleaner it will rais the grain which can remove cartuch stampings etc... use mineral spirits for light cleaning and laquer thinner for really nasty stuff it will leach out the black grease stains a lil brushing with a clean NATURAL bristle paint brush, after its clean lightly buff with 0000 steel wool as there will be a lil residue on the surface then re-oil with BLO, or I prefer Tung oil as it dries faster and can be had in low luster as well as high gloss to match original finish, the more coats the deeper the color will get... DO NOT use oven cleaner, most are chlorinated and will cause bad BAD issues later down the road.... been there, done that too.... ya don't wanna see what happens to your blueing should ya forget to keep it oiled and don't even think bout it on the wood unless ya really like cleaning rust from under your wood line how soon depends on where ya live........
  11. byf43

    byf43 Member

    Jan 3, 2006
    Southern Maryland
    As many different methods as there are responses.

    For the barreled action/metal parts:
    Remove barreled action from stock and any other wood parts.
    Coin-operated car wash, late at night (so as to not scare the you-know-what) out of others washing their cars. "Ahhhhhhh!!! He's gotta gun!":eek:
    Hot, soapy water under pressure, then rinse and dry.
    Take the barreled action home and clean as if doing a routine 'after the range' cleaning, then coat liberally with CLP.

    I've had good success with mineral spirits, newspaper and patience. I'm in no hurry.

    That's my 2¢. Thanks for reading.
  12. TimboKhan

    TimboKhan Moderator Staff Member

    Apr 15, 2005
    Greeley, CO
    Hmm... I think this might be the dumbest post I have seen in awhile.

    First off, this came from the official (meaning Corporate) WD-40 website FAQ:

    Secondly, I would love, and I do mean LOVE, to see any gun that has ever been eaten out by using WD-40. But, I never will because there never has been a gun "eaten from the inside out" by WD-40. Basically, your saying that a product that is intended primarily to prevent corrosion is itself corrosive to the very material it is meant to protect. Wow.... I have read some good internet BS over the years, but this one takes the cake.

    Here is the link to the website if your dying to read a FAQ on WD-40...

  13. RevolvingCylinder

    RevolvingCylinder Member

    Nov 6, 2006
    My method is the same as Onmilo. Kerosene or gasoline. And I don't see how WD-40 is harmful to metals. Just the opposite would be true.
  14. duke40

    duke40 Member

    Jan 26, 2007
    Upstate, SC
    +1 for mineral spirits. And naval jelly if you want to remove the bluing to do your own finish.
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