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Replaced Springs on My 642. Not impressed.

Discussion in 'Handguns: Revolvers' started by Scott Free, Mar 21, 2012.

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  1. Scott Free

    Scott Free Member

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    I bought the Wolff spring kit for my S&W 642 more than a year ago. Today I finally made the switch. I put on the 14# trigger return spring and the 8# hammer spring. It doesn't seem like it eased the trigger pull at all. In fact, it seems like it may have increased it. The original springs had at least 2500 dry firings, so maybe that explains it. Maybe the new springs will loosen up with more dry fires. In any case, I'm not impressed. I also thought the process of changing the two springs was fairly difficult. I'm not looking forward to switching back to the originals. (I recently replaced the springs on a Ruger SP101, and it was a incredibly easy to do. Different mechanisms, though.)
     
  2. ArchAngelCD

    ArchAngelCD Member

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    Sorry it didn't work out for you. J frame triggers are made intentionally heavy but they should be smooth.

    Just a note: If your parts are MIM don't try to stone them to make things smoother because you run the risk of removing the hardened outer part of the parts. Once you do that they will fail is very short order.
     
  3. Scott Free

    Scott Free Member

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    The pull is smooth after doing lots of dry firing with the original springs. I was hoping to lighten it up a bit, and used the spring weights that others had suggested. Maybe I just need to break them in with more dry firing.
     
  4. ArchAngelCD

    ArchAngelCD Member

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    I'm not a Gunsmith so I can't tell you which spring weights to use. Are you sure you used lighter springs than those that came from the factory. Remember, you want to make sure that revolver is 110% reliable if you carry it for SD.

    I'm sure one of the very good gunsmiths who are on this forum will be by soon to tell you which spring weights to use and which spring you can lighten up on and still have a reliable revolver. I remember reading a thread telling which spring you can go light on without effecting the primer strike but I just can't remember. (getting old stinks!)
     
  5. skt239

    skt239 Member

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    It's my personal opinion that nothing beats a well worn trigger on a J-frame. If you want a light trigger you should check out the LCR. It might be exactly what your looking for.
     
  6. Hammerdown77

    Hammerdown77 Member

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    The 14# should have felt a bit lighter. I use the 12# return, and along with 1000s of dry fires, and popping the side plate to flush out all the "break in" gunk and applying a light coat of Tetra grease to all sliding parts, the trigger feels really nice.

    I tried the 8 lb. hammer spring in the kit, and I'd get a couple of light strikes (i.e. no go bang) every 50 rounds or so. This was using CCI primers. I put the stock spring back in, no problems.

    In my opinion, if the gun will be used for self defense, DO NOT CHANGE THE STOCK HAMMER SPRING*. J frames need all the help they can get to bust a primer; even reducing the mainspring weight by half a pound can turn the gun unreliable.

    My two cents.

    *caveat: if you have had a thorough action job by someone who knows what they are doing, you might be able to reduce the hammer spring weight. Removing a lot of friction and hitches in the action can allow you to get away with a slightly lighter weight spring, and still maintain reliability.
     
  7. ArchAngelCD

    ArchAngelCD Member

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    Or if you would rather stick with S&W check out the Bodyguard 38.
     
  8. Steve in PA

    Steve in PA Member

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    I put the Apex kit in mine and like the feel a lot.
     
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