Replacing handles

[jmr40]

Smoky Mountain Knife works had these a couple of years ago and I bought 3. Schrade has been a Chinese made knife for several years, but SMKW found and bought some old USA made blades. They sent them to China to be fitted with the current plastic handles and a sheath. I've forgotten what I paid but it was $25-$30 each IIRC. About the same price as the made in China knife at that time.

How practical would it be to replace the cheap plastic handles? I don't mind utilitarian, or plastic necessarily. But plastic that imitates expensive materials seems a little cheesy to me. Not interested in anything expensive or exotic. I'm thinking stacked leather might be easier with this type of tang, but I don't really know enough about this sort of thing. I wouldn't be opposed to G10 or Micarta.

There are some knife makers here and I'm looking for ideas for handles, ballpark estimates, as well as recommendations for someone who would do it. It may not be worth the effort.

 

[Bazoo]

I made a wooden handle for my golden spike. I cut a piece of wood the same thickness of the tang. Then I dadoed a slot in each side piece for the threaded portion to clear. Glued it together. Sanded and shaped it. I've done a couple this way. I could offer a few pics if you like.

Stacked leather might do real good on one. It'll be easy to accommodate that threaded stud part.

 

[jmr40]

Thanks for the reply. I've never tried something like this on my own and don't know if I want to try. I may look around locally and see if I can find someone who might want to take it on.

 

[Wolfshead]

I think that you could do it.
Get the handle materials you want and take your time it isn’t a real hard project to do.
I could talk you through it if you’re interested
Here are a couple that I did for a friend on his old kitchen knives

 

[Wolfshead]

On the knife that you have in the picture, how is the butt plate/end cap attached to the knife?
Can you tell?
A stack leather handle is pretty easy.
Just kinda messy to be honest.
I rehandled this knife’s handle. The end cap was pinned on. I just drove that out and replaced it with a piece of copper wire that fit the holes dimension.
Before and after pics

 

[Bazoo]

This is locust and maple. Original spacers.

 

[Bazoo]

This how it's constructed. I glued the spacers to the handle blank at the pommel end but not at the guard end. I did have the pommel glued to the handle too but the glue let go.

JB weld is what I used for gluing the spacers and pommel. It's been so long now I can't remember for sure, but I don't think I cleaned them with anything before gluing. So likely it had some wax or oil on the pommel. It is somewhat rough on the back side and should have held. Oh well.

 

[Bazoo]

I'm going to make another handle for this knife at some point because I made the portion where the index finger goes too round. But it matched the guard that was on it, so I'll likely get another guard or make one. Just something I've been thinking on a few years.

You can see on this pic, the handle has two pieces (maple) that are just a hair thicker than the blade tang. The handle "sides" are dadoed to let the tang nut pass through.

 

[jmr40]

On the knife that you have in the picture, how is the butt plate/end cap attached to the knife?

Just a phillips screw. It comes off easy. I've had it apart for a look. I figured stacked leather would be the easiest and I like the look.

Bazoo, that is a huge improvement over the original. Nice looking.

 

[Bazoo]

Just a phillips screw. It comes off easy. I've had it apart for a look. I figured stacked leather would be the easiest and I like the look.

Bazoo, that is a huge improvement over the original. Nice looking.

Thanks.

 

[Wolfshead]

Just a phillips screw. It comes off easy. I've had it apart for a look. I figured stacked leather would be the easiest and I like the look.

Bazoo, that is a huge improvement over the original. Nice looking.

i would do the stack leather handle then.
Cut pieces of leather a little over sized and cut a few extra so that you can “squeeze” then down when attaching the end cap.
I use blue painters tape and cover everything I don’t want epoxy on. EVERYTHING!
I use clear epoxy.
Once the epoxy has cured, I shape with a sander and files then smooth with sand paper.
I’ve used many different things for the final seal, super glue, poly, linspeed oil, and tru oil.
My personal like is the tru oil. Super glue is great but you need quite a bit as the leather will soak it up.
I apply a generous first coat and let it soak in really good.
Let it go over night and apply a second coat and let it soak in.
Do this until you get results you like.
Then I rub it down with beeswax and (don’t tell my wife…) I heat it with a hair dryer and buff in the beeswax.

 

[RA40]

Skillful works here, great job at the re-handle!

 

[Bazoo]

Just a phillips screw. It comes off easy. I've had it apart for a look. I figured stacked leather would be the easiest and I like the look.

Bazoo, that is a huge improvement over the original. Nice looking.

If you decide you want a wood handle, and what I did to mine suits you, I'd like to offer to make one for yours.

 

[jmr40]

I think I'm going to try stacked leather. If it doesn't turn out well I may get back to you.

 

[Bazoo]

The offer stands.

 

[Wolfshead]

I think I'm going to try stacked leather. If it doesn't turn out well I may get back to you.

if you get stuck or have any questions let me know.
I’ll be most happy to help if I can.
Best wishes!

 

[Barry the Bear]

when I spoke to a baldesmith (local not majorly known though they were on an episode of FIF) about replacing my Case Bowie handle he qouted 100 but I had to supply my Deer antler

 

[jmr40]

I've been watching some youtube videos of doing stacked leather. With the right tools it doesn't look too hard. Not having a belt sander may make it a little more work for me. But I can probably borrow one.

 

[Bazoo]

I have worked stacked leather, but not cut the washers and stacked new.

With leather or wood, I use a random orbit palm sander sander for the final smoothing and shaping. Partly because I'm skilled in its use from making furniture, and partly because I couldn't think of any better tool for getting the radius where the handle meets guard. The soft pad, kinda curls up on the guard instead of digging in.