Replacing parts on the 1911

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45auto

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1911 external

Hi,
On the new 1911's coming out, do you need special tools to replace or is it just a drift pin and most can do it?
Just wondering whether it's a gunsmith visit, like replacing front sights, ejector, plunger tube, etc or any 'dummy' can do it?
Thanks
 
Don't force it

With the safety on, the slide will move, BUT the hammer is not intended to. In other words, DON'T cock the hammer with the safety on. You will break your gun

To load gun ASAP (as safe as possible), cock hammer with thumb, engage safety, insert mag, rack slide. Note that the safety is engaged at all times when there is a round in the chamber.

I own two Gov. .380's, in in nickel and one in stainless. Great pistols.
 
I am a "Dummy", not typing what I am thinking.
I meant to say external extractors that are appearing on some of the 1911's now.
Thanks
 
Just looking - don't own one and they won't let me take theirs apart for some reason - the Kimber looks like a Glock or Walther, with a spring and plunger in line behind a hook retained only by an undercut. Hold the plunger back with a small screwdriver and pick out the hook. Don't let the spring and plunger sprong across the room and down the furnace vent.
Wilson KZ has a vertical retaining and pivot pin and a spring under the tail of the extractor behind the pin. Drift out the pin and the spring and extractor will fall out. This is how my CZ works. I bet the SW 1911 does, too, it is how their other extractors are made.

External extractors are easier to manufacture and install, no adjustments needed or possible. Reliable once they get the hook shape and spring size right. But less convenient to get out and clean under. Many closer copies of 1911 use ersatz materials for the extractor that do not have the correct temper to take and hold adjustment. Or the factory does not have the people who know how or who are given the time to adjust them.
 
Thanks for the information.
I have good luck with the internal and like the ability to replace it quickly, but if the external style works much longer without care, then it may be worth the change.
From your description it looks like the Kimber style may be the quicker and easier to maintain or replace.
It does seem the external extractor would eliminate some problems since the manufacturers seem to "cheap" the internal.
 
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