resizing problem

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We had similar discussions to "fix" Glocked cases in our shooting group and decided it was better to eliminate the cause of the bulges instead of fixing the bulges.

That's why I recommend the better chamber supported newer factory barrels or match grade aftermarket barrels with even better support/tighter chamber.

Fixing the bulged cases by using Redding G-RX pass through dies or using thinner top shell holder on single stage press will not address the cause of bulged cases, you can only do that with barrel change.

Since I have switched to Lone Wolf barrels (I load to 5% less max), I no longer get bulged cases. For range pickup brass, I inspect them closely and sort out any bulged cases and they all get sized on the single stage press (any case that fails the case gauge gets tossed for scrap).
 
All this fuss about nothing. Nothing to do with the OP's question either, if I read it right

Assuming the sizer is in spec, if your regular carbide or steel 9MM sizer will not size it enough to pass the gauge, scrap it. 9MM & .40 brass is free or cheap at the worst. The last .003 of sizing doesn't matter, it won't get those few overstressed cases that your sizer won't do. Scrap em and quit worrying about it. Heck, 99% of my 9MM guns will chamber and shoot the ones that fail the gauge, but I don't use those cases because I have one tight chambered (within spec, just tight) 9MM pistol.



Anyway

Some cases will look bad, much like the OP has described (just like JimKirk posted a pic of), but they load and shoot fine if they pass the gauge. If his press/die set up does it to all of the cases, something is out of line. When I load a batch of 9MM 0r .40 range brass, a few cases will do exactly what the OP describes, but most size fairly evenly around the circumference.

Another possibility is a sharp edge on the bottom of the carbide ring. That will do it every time. I had a .38 Super undersized die like that. It sure is hard to fix a carbide insert. They are tough as heck.

If all the OP's brass is looking like JimKirk's pic, he needs to get it replaced by the maker.

We had similar discussions to "fix" Glocked cases in our shooting group and decided it was better to eliminate the cause of the bulges instead of fixing the bulges.
I agree wholeheartedly.
 
There is no fuss!
I was only trying to understand what was being said, a clarification at best!

And yes it does have something to do with the post because we were discussing the same problem, albeit in a deeper understanding.

And yes those last few thousands do matter if they keep the cartridge from fully entering the chamber, which they do with my 357 SIG. I bought quite a few cases, once fired from a police dept range. You can not see the bulge with your eye( I can measure it), but when I run them through a regular sizing die, I get a line simliar to the one in the photo. It is closer to the base and much smaller, but it does cause hangups. The SIG chamber in my Glock is much tigher than what ever these hulls were shot in.

Jimmy K
 
Well now...That made it easy for me. The Police dept. were probably using Glocks and JimKirk is using a Glock. I don't want anything to do with this. Good reading. I'm out of here.
 
The OP was talking about .40 brass, and for it that last .003 means diddly squat. If sizing .003 farther down on .40 makes it chamber, which I doubt, there are other issues. And if it doesn't pass the gauge after regular sizing, I'd scrap it, just like I posted earlier.


Now.....357 Sig, sure nuff, that last .003 means something (in either direction), but I guess I missed where it changed to .357 Sig.

I use the 40 S&W G-Rx with my 357 SIG.

Aghh....I see, you changed lanes and I missed it.

If I just had to load for a gun that bulged the brass so badly a regular sizer would not size it, I think my first try would be an aftermarket barrel that supported the case better. If that was not possible, I would be very careful how many times I loaded those cases to full power. I bet the new G-RX die is the schnitz for getting those cases back to spec, but again, I would be cautious about how many times I loaded them.

albeit in a deeper understanding.
I think my feelings are hurt. I might have to get a government grant to pay for therapy. :D

Where did I put big O's number?
 
I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one who over looks vital details in a post.

You must have read into the post something I didn't include...
bulged the brass so badly
This is what I said..
You can not see the bulge with your eye( I can measure it), but when I run them through a regular sizing die, I get a line similar to the one in the photo. It is closer to the base and much smaller, but it does cause hangups. The SIG chamber in my Glock is much tighter than what ever these hulls were shot in.

I should have added that my own brass does not do this!

I think my feelings are hurt. I think my feelings are hurt.

The government ain't got that much spare money:D


:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D
:evil:Jimmy
 
howelljeffrey, you may need the Redding G-RX die to size all the way down to the base of the case ($37 from MidwayUSA) or I found the shell holder top is thinner than the progressive/turret shell plate, thus allowing you to size further down the case. If you have access to a single stage press, you can try your die/case to see if that will fix your problem.

BDS, you're confused about the press howelljeffery has. The lee turret is basically a single stage loader with a multi hole turret above it's single ram. It uses standard shell holders.

Quote:
Cure: Redding 40 S&W G-Rx push through die.
I have a Redding G-Rx die for my Glock. It is not carbide and requires lube, PITA for me. I shelved the Redding die and replaced it with a Lee Factory crimp die, it's carbide(no lube). Remove the guts from the LFCD and push the brass all the way through just like the Redding die, Cheaper, no lube and a multi tasker.

The lee FCD is bigger than even a standard sizing die. I'd be surprised if one would even touch/ begin to size a fired case. They're made to iron out of speck, bulged, cases so they will chamber.

Howelljeffery, are the cases you are trying to size fired in a glock? Look at the firing pin mark on the primer, does it have a rectangular mark surrounding the FP dent? If it does, then it was fired in a glock. My glock does show a bit of a belly, however it has never interfered with function of my reloads.
 
BDS, you're confused about the press howelljeffery has. The lee turret is basically a single stage loader with a multi hole turret above it's single ram. It uses standard shell holders.

Darn, don't get old ... your mind is first to go :D

I covered the shell holder issue and added the shell plate because the thicker top of the shell plate makes this problem worse.

I think the ultimate solution is to have all the Glock shooters replace their old less supported barrels with newer ones so us reloaders won't have this resizing issue. :rolleyes: I say we have Glock recall these old barrels .... for inconveniencing reloaders.
 
+1 on the Redding G-Rx if you shoot .40 S&W in a Glock. Couple of
issues to consider--Don't clean your brass shiny before using the G-Rx.
The cleaner the brass is, the harder it is to push the brass through. Also,
the Imperial wax works much better than case lube. Wax alternating
cartridges and they run through easier. Run the brass through your
normal cleaning process after they are sized in the G-Rx.

As for the striations on your brass, I would bet your die has acumulated
brass build-up on the walls. Best way to remove is to put the die in a
vise and run a bronze cleaning brush (attached to your drill) with some
bore cleaner in the die. It only takes a couple minutes to remove the
build-up.
 
steve4102:
I have a Redding G-Rx die for my Glock. It is not carbide and requires lube, PITA for me. I shelved the Redding die and replaced it with a Lee Factory crimp die, it's carbide(no lube). Remove the guts from the LFCD and push the brass all the way through just like the Redding die, Cheaper, no lube and a multi tasker.

Lee should sell a shell plate/holder adapter to use with FCD as cheaper carbide competition to Redding G-RX and no lube (BTW, G-RX only comes in 40 S&W)!

Should send Lee an email ...

Steve, I guess you were on the same page. :D:D
 
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