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Revolver Factory Re-Bluing Question

Discussion in 'Handguns: Revolvers' started by Pat Riot, Apr 3, 2021.

  1. Pat Riot
    • Contributing Member

    Pat Riot Contributing Member

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    I have a brand new S&W 25-15 Classic. You may have seen it in the other thread.

    Anyway, when I bought the gun I noticed a scratch in the bluing on the barrel. At first I thought about declining the purchase, but the odds of me finding another are very slim unless I want to drive a long way in the hopes another would be perfect.

    Here are the marks / scratches in the barrel:
    4CED4B63-EE1F-4491-8848-B378BEEE581E.jpeg

    B620AEF5-3488-445B-A2CA-2D697E2A1A1E.jpeg

    0B45124A-E911-49A9-8E0A-47AB5FD7AE2E.jpeg

    The store says these scratches came from the factory, but I doubt that. I say that because if the look the first guy I showed to had on his face when I said “See these scratches? We’re they there when tithe gun arrived here?”
    I got nothing but a dumb look.

    Here are my questions:
    1. Do you think S&W would correct this?

    2. Would they have to remove/ replace the barrel to correct this?

    If they would remove the barrel I am just going to leave the gun as is or maybe hit the scratch with a Cold Blue pen.
    This gun is sighted perfectly for me and is accurate right out of the box. If there’s the chance that accuracy or POA would be affected I will just leave it. I am sure that in time I will bang it up... Especially if it looked perfect. This gun will be holster carried eventually and it will get shot a lot. Love this gun. It will see use.

    Thank you
     
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  2. Driftwood Johnson

    Driftwood Johnson Member

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    Dumb Question:

    Why not call S&W and ask?

    Frankly, I have no idea what kind of repair service S&W is offering now. I doubt if they would have to remove the barrel. But perhaps they would want to strip off the original blue and reblue the entire gun. Which you would probably have to pay for.

    You can always resight the gun, how hard was that to do in the first place?

    If it were mine I would touch up the scratches with cold blue and be done with it. All my revolvers eventually get wear marks on them from being used.
     
  3. DR505

    DR505 Member

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    I’m with Driftwood...cold blue pen and carry on. Unless I never use a firearm it ends up with scratches and wear marks. Stocks on my rifles get nicked, bluing wears off or gets scratched, stainless gets scratched even easier, etc.
     
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  4. Pat Riot
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    Pat Riot Contributing Member

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    Thank you both.
    I am leaning toward the cold blue pen fix.

    I have had lots of experience with S&W’s customer service. Calling and asking a CS rep what the warranty dept. will do usually does not result in a satisfactory or accurate response.

    The more I think about it the more I think I should have not bothered posting this and just gone the cold blue route.

    Driftwood, you may be right about me having to pay for it. I know S&W has had some pretty lame QC but I doubt scratches like this would have occurred at the factory.

    Thank you both very much.
     
  5. ontarget

    ontarget Member

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    @Pat Riot I totally feel your pain. I just picked up a RIA 1911 and found a very thin scratch on the slide near the ejection port. It was bothering me at first but then I vowed to put as much honest wear on that gun as possible, thereby causing me to no longer see any scratches.
    Maybe you can do the same!
    Good luck.:thumbup:
     
  6. Pat Riot
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    Pat Riot Contributing Member

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    Most excellent suggestion! I took it to the range shortly after my last post. Love that revolver. I took my Vaquero too.
    BBFC99FA-9DBF-416D-8B3A-D81D81221227.jpeg
     
  7. Jonny V

    Jonny V Member

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    I strongly doubt those scratches happened at the factory. Most likely you'll be on the hook for re-bluing (if you choose to go that route). A cold blue pen might itch the scratch in the meantime (as others have noted)....If you hate the scratches, don't go to some local yokel to get it done....pick an old man who knows what he's doing!
     
  8. wcwhitey

    wcwhitey Member

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    I don’t mind character on an old gun. To me though new is new, if I pay for new I want it that way. At least till I get to use it.
     
    GeoDudeFlorida, Pat Riot and Jonny V like this.
  9. AZAndy

    AZAndy Member

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    Bluing is costly. I've used Oxpho successfully in your sort of situation. You'll always know exactly where the spots are, but nobody else will notice unless they do a close inspection. I doubt S&W would think that's a warranty problem, but you could try and see, as Mr. Driftwood suggests. If you want to get really serious, you could have the barrel removed and do a rust-blue on it, but that's more trouble than I care to go to. (Though I have been known to Parkerize old revolvers, but I reckon that's not what you're looking for.)

    I'd guess somebody at the shop got clumsy with it somehow.
     
    GeoDudeFlorida and Pat Riot like this.
  10. bannockburn

    bannockburn Member

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    Pat Riot

    Another vote in favor of the cold blue pen fix. If there was a functional problem with your gun then I would say send it in and get it fixed. Seeing this is a cosmetic issue, and the gun functions fine and the sights are already dialed in, I would want to avoid shipping the gun back to the factory. You never know what could happen to it in transit or while it's at the factory for that matter either.

    Leave it be for now and get a shootin' with it!
     
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2021
  11. Pat Riot
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    Pat Riot Contributing Member

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    Yes, normally I would agree, but I debated on this for a little while before buying the gun. I saw the scratches right away. The way I saw it and still see it is S&W came out with this “Classic” in 2008. They apparently didn’t make this gun again until 2019. According to the guy at the store where I got it they had this one for many months before I showed up.
    I was afraid that if I passed for a “perfect” specimen I would have missed out in owning one yet again.


    I have decided that I am going to buy some cold blue and dress it up myself.
     
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  12. Pat Riot
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    Pat Riot Contributing Member

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    I agree. They store all guns in safes every night, apparently. At some point someone must have banged it into something.
     
  13. AZAndy

    AZAndy Member

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    Reminds me of the day I got fumble-fingered and dropped my brand-new, bought-that-very-day, DW Valor V-Bob into the bottom of the gun cabinet, where there's a layer of parts guns. :eek:

    If you're in the shop you bought it from again soon, just look for the guy who has slap marks on the back of his head. That's who did it.
     
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  14. Pat Riot
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    Pat Riot Contributing Member

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    I dropped my brand new S&W model 60 Pro the very first time I took it to the range. Dropped it right on the concrete floor. It dented the rear sight blade.

    A couple months later I launched the slide of my brand new Remington RM380 right out into the lane of the indoor range I was shooting it for the first time. That was when I discovered that having it turned with the left side down and retracting the slide slowly the takedown pin drops out. I was looking at the barrel ramp when I did this. I never did it again. Haha.
     
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  15. AZAndy

    AZAndy Member

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    Yow, that hurts just thinking about it! I know the feeling well. I've shot the slide off a gun at a range, but I can't remember what it was-- Keltec .32 maybe? It's easy to not get the pin seated all the way on those, so that might have been it. I wish I had a photo of my facial expression at the time. It would have looked just like the time I was shooting a Ruger 1911 and the front sight snapped off.
     
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  16. 303 hunter

    303 hunter Member

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    BE31E9D3-E33D-4748-81BE-EAB6A2591BA2.jpeg Buff the scratch with 0004 steel wool, and touch up with cold blue. I’ve got a model 10 smith&wesson that had an imperfection on the cylinder from sitting in a holster for years. Now, it looks like a new revolver made in 1968.
     
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  17. AZAndy

    AZAndy Member

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    Wait wait wait, you did that with just cold blue? What kind? I have a 10 no dash with the same problem you describe, and I'd really like to try to do what you did. Every time I see that corrosion, it makes me sad. The rest of the gun is just about like-new.
     
  18. Pat Riot
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    Pat Riot Contributing Member

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    Yes, I agree. More details please. :D
    I have only used cold blue on a shotgun barrel and it really didn’t come out great. It didn’t look awful but it definitely wasn’t great.

    I figured in my case I was going to only apply bluing to the actual scratches themselves with a very fine brush or toothpick after degreasing with acetone. I was concerned about the surrounding bluing.
     
  19. Jim Watson

    Jim Watson Member

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    Brownells says that Oxpho Blue is the most durable but 44-40 will give a closer color match to a small mar.
     
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  20. VMC

    VMC Member

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    Brownells Oxpho Blue is great and their Dicropan T-4 is great if needing a black finish. I used the T-4 on an old Colt Army Special .32-20 that had no finish left on it . It turned out great considering the shape the old finish was in. I sealed it with a little Johnsons Carnuba wax and it has held up for years of shooting. IMG_0758.JPG
     
  21. Jim Watson

    Jim Watson Member

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    The gunsmith that refurbed my rifles and shotguns after The Incident has a method of applying Oxpho Blue to a whole gun; not what Brownells says, though. They came out looking good to excellent.
    He said he has a hot blue outfit that he has not even set up, he can get such good results with Oxpho Blue.
    He rust blued a shotgun barrel in case the rib was soft soldered and sent out the receiver for hot blue.
     
    Pat Riot likes this.
  22. wgf

    wgf Member

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    A few years ago I asked S&W to reblue a 20 year old 586 barrel that had turned plum colored. They did the whole gun with out charge. It looked great. I wish I had a picture to upload, but I sold it. One of my many regrets.
     
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  23. 303 hunter

    303 hunter Member

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    A1EE9177-A916-48EE-959E-172DA6278EA2.jpeg
    I just cleaned the rough area with a very small piece of ultra fine steel wool, and used G96 gun blue cream. The brighter you get the steel, the better the cold blue will blend in. Showed it to a friend who collects K frames, and he didn’t even notice.
     
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  24. Pat Riot
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    Pat Riot Contributing Member

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    Thank you. It didn’t affect the surrounding existing bluing?
     
  25. 303 hunter

    303 hunter Member

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    Keep the cold blue on the scratch as best you can. Once you rub it down with oil it’ll be hard to see.
     
    Pat Riot likes this.
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