Revovler cleaning tip

[E357]

A while back, I bought a power Deburr Accessory kit from Lyman for my rifle brass. The kit came with two small Hex studs that were drilled and threaded for cleaning brushes. Well a nylon chamber brush and a cordless screwdriver takes about 6 seconds to clean up a revolver cylinder.

Elliot

 

[Doc]

E357: in the past I always cleaned the cylinders while attached to the frame. I there any reason to remove it for cleaning?

 

[E357]

With the slow cordless drill you can leave the cylinder attached to the frame. However, about every third cleaning I like to take the cylinder and yoke apart (S&W's) to clean out the crud that finds it way bwtween the yoke and extractor rod. The same goes for under the side plate if you shot a lot of smoky lead target loads. A good gunsmithing set of hollow ground screwdrivers is a must.

Elliot

 

[Doc]

Thanks Elliot, but how?
(OK, now we're OT!)
Do I need to be a gunsmith, or just own good screwdrivers?

Doc

 

[Standing Wolf]

I there any reason to remove it for cleaning?

Removing the cylinder lets you do a quicker, better job with less effort and risk of scratching the rest of the gun, plus you can clean the yoke and extractor rod. I usually let the cylinder and associated parts soak in a jar of Hoppe's No. 9 while I clean the barrel and frame. As needed, I use a brass-bristled brush on the face of the cylinder, although I try to use an old tooth brush whenever possible, since plastic is less abrasive than brass.

 

[BigG]

To pull the cylinder, all you need to do is take out the front screw of the side plate, open the cylinder, and the yoke will pull out to the front. The yoke will then slide off the cylinder. Further disassembly not recommended. You can blow out the crud with Gunscrubber, push back extractor rod and blow crud from under the star, etc. Relube, replace yoke, and reassemble.

 

[Jim K]

For chamber cleaning, I just use a bronze brush in a section of M10 cleaning rod. I chuck the other end of the rod in a drill press, run the brush into each chamber, moving the gun up and down. Quick and easy. Length of rod keeps chuck away from the gun.

Jim

 

[E357]

All the suggestions seem to be on the mark. BIgG's advice about blowing the crud out with gunscrubber is a whole lot easier than removing the side plate. It will do the job well enough for most people. Remove the grips and cock the hammer then squirt the stuff in an let it dry and then finish it off by squirting a LITTLE Rem Oil or some such stuff. This is NO WAY the best cleaning advice, but for once in a "blue moon" it don't hurt..

About the front screw just ahead of the trigger on the right side of the S&W, This is called the yoke screw and it holds the yoke and cylinder in place. There are no springs under it, unlike some ofther revolvers so it is easy to remove and put back. You just need a good screw driver that has a blade that won't slip and MUST BE NARROWER than the slot in the screw or you'll scratch the gun for sure. I use a Chapman set, but also have a one dollar screw driver that I filed down just to fit the yoke screw, since I use it so much. S&W will sell you a real beauty one if you ask nice with a credit card. They used to be included free when you bought a gun, but those days are long past I believe.

THE GREAT Revolver book is "The S&W REVOLVER - A shop Manual" By Jerry Kuhnhausen. There are no words to describe how wonderful this book is. It is only $20 new, you may find it on the internet "used" for less. This book will answer all your questions and a whole lot more. He also has a couple of beauties on the 1911, if you like them bottom feeders.

Elliot

 

[BigG]

Actually, E357, I was referring to blowing out the crap from under the extractor with Gunscrubber.

To clean the lockwork, I recommend removing all three screws and the sideplate, and blowing out the mechanism with Gunscrubber with the gun variously cocked and at rest to make sure most of the gunk is blown away. I use a little white grease on the bearing surfaces after coating metal surfaces lightly with Breakfree CLP before reassembly. This internal cleaning is necessary only infrequently. The cylinder needs attention more often.

 

[Jim K]

Removal of the sideplate should be needed infrequently. I always discourage doing this because 90% of the folks who try it either lose parts or mess something up. A few drops of good oil ahead of the hammer and trigger will almost always be enough.

BTW, when removing the sideplate, always release tension on the mainspring by backing off the strain screw. This relieves strain on the hammer pin when the sideplate is removed.

Jim

 

[BigG]

Gee, hard to release strain screw on my j-frames.