RIA 1911 in 38 super..............

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Any personal experience with this weapon. Have been looking to get into the 38 super and I love 1911's. Pretty scarce in Ca. on the cheap. Is it worth tuning?
 
So, I have an RIA 1911 and I have a 1911 in 38 Super. I do not have an RIA 1911 in 38 Super.

I have a Rock Series 1911 in 45 ACP. I think it's excellent value for money. My Kimber Team Match II in 38 Super is better finished and more accurate.

The question is really what you want to do. 38 Super is only offered in the GI Series as far as I know. And that means GI sights. Many people getting into 38 Super are gamers or otherwise interested in accuracy. GI sights make accuracy pretty tough. Even if you find the load that shoots to POA, they are challenging in different light conditions etc. So, that, and the very underwhelming black Parkerized finish argue against the RIA.

However, did I mention value for money? These are well made, if not particularly well finished, pistols. As a platform for building and tuning, there's something there (but the sights). As a solid and reliable shooter (mine in 45 has never failed to digest any bullet weight, type, or shape, including some fairly cruddy ammo), these are good guns.

So, not ideal for competitive shooting, in my view, but a solid, reliable firearm.
 
Thanks Doc, willing to tune and upgrade. The factory sights are lacking. Considering Bomar rear and a fusion fiber optic up front.

I'm looking for a solid platform to build on. I have Colt and Sprinfield 1911's that I'm happy with. I'm lucky to have a local smith that is solid AND reasonable.

I'm certainly no pro but I can appreciate an accurate weapon. Thank you for the info! At the pricepoint I'm considering the RIA.
 
CharliesHammer

I think DocRock did a nice job of answering your query. I worked on a friend's RIA 1911 some years back. First thing I noticed was this particular pistol was very well built, both inside and outside. Tolerances were very close, with barrel to slide and slide to frame fit tight but not too tight. The nickel plating was evenly applied with solid coverage throughout the gun. I added a beavertail grip safety, ring hammer, and an extended thumb safety and slide release. All of the parts were stainless steel and fit with very little filing needed. They were then polished with Mother's Mag Polish so as to better match the bright nickel finish. Sent the slide out to have night sights installed.
 
I have a Citadel (RIA)1911 in .45.
It has been reliable and shoots well. (no exact count but a least 5K rounds thru it)
Is it as nice a 1911 as my Colt, or my Springfield Loaded model, no, but it is about 1/2 the price of those.

I would buy another if I was looking for a 1911 in that price range.
 
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I purchased the 1911 45 ACP at Gander Mountain before they were taken over by Cabelas. The price was right, $399 and with a $100 AT&T cash back card, I could not help myself.

I did not like the factory grips, changed those

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to double diamond coco bolo

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the pistol was inconsistent in latching on the last round, a call to RIA and they sent one of these, and it worked.

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However, the pistol recoiled very hard. I was able to tame it with a 24 pound recoil spring, but also, the barrel leaded severely even after bore polishing. So I called up and complained, and RIA sent me a shipping label and all it cost me was a box to send back.

They did something. The new barrel still leads too quickly, I think it is a different barrel because it is not as bright as the one I bore polished using the Wheeler kit, at Midway

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incidentally this is slow. You are supposed to shoot 5 rounds with the 220, clean barrel, shoot five rounds with the 320, clean barrel, etc. I used JB bore paste and many patches in cleaning the barrel, every five rounds, and field stripping the pistol each time takes time. The Wheeler kit does polish the bore but in this case, it did not reduce the leading as far as I could tell.

Naturally I claimed I was a super expert, world class shot and the pistol would not shoot straight. I have found this will get you a factory target proving you are an idiot. :rofl:

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The hard recoil is gone, I installed a 18 lb recoil spring and I don't have a problem with racking the slide. Twenty four pounds was too much, hands had to be clean, the slide had to be clean.

The original GI sights are just great for being snag free, unobtrusive, and are just one step up from no sights at all! Period front sights were thin and skinny, hard to acquire, and probably of only real use to 20 somethings at a target range. I pulled out my Small Arms Firing Manual from 1913. The target they used was a Target L which had a five inch black circular bull worth ten points if you hit it. The target was six feet tall and four foot wide. The seven ring was 46 inches in diameter and any hit on target was worth two. Looking at my 1913 Small Arms Manual I am amazed at the recommended course of fire. Each segment was seven rounds. Slow fire, 30 seconds per round, was conducted at 50 yards and 75 yards! Seventy five yards!!! :what: Timed fire, 30 seconds for seven rounds, conducted at 25 yards and 50 yards!. Fifty yards timed fire!!! :what: (the manual calls all these periods rapid fire, today, timed fire is 5 rounds in 20 seconds at 25 yards) Rapid fire (15 seconds, seven rounds) was at 15 yards and 25 yards. I currently shoot Bullseye Pistol and 50 yards is a hell of a long way out there, I cannot imagine hitting the ten ring, or the black, at 75 yards. I might hit a six foot by four foot target, once and a while, at the distance. (Try this standing on your feet and holding the pistol with only one hand, ain't so easy now, is it?) That five inch black round bull accounts for the thin front sights on the pistol. I have not verified this at distance, but that is probably the width of the bull as it appeared from the firing line.
 
Well the only responsible thing to do is start a new adventure in 38 super. I really appreciate the quality educational responses I get here on THR.
Having bad vision makes working out sights my challenge for every handgun I purchase.
Any well made gun like the RIA will outperform both my skill and vision. I had quit shooting regularly 20 years ago because of declining vision. About a year and a half ago I started upgrading my weapons sights and lowered my expectations.
I now shoot once or twice a week and am making progress. I'm glad I got back into the sport. Thanks again guys.
 
Well the only responsible thing to do is start a new adventure in 38 super. I really appreciate the quality educational responses I get here on THR.
Having bad vision makes working out sights my challenge for every handgun I purchase.
Any well made gun like the RIA will outperform both my skill and vision. I had quit shooting regularly 20 years ago because of declining vision. About a year and a half ago I started upgrading my weapons sights and lowered my expectations.
I now shoot once or twice a week and am making progress. I'm glad I got back into the sport. Thanks again guys.

If you cannot see irons and the target anymore, try optics.

f4puGBb.jpg

Clark installed the base. This is the only way way to go for geezers. Just put that red dot on the target and jerk the trigger!
 
Don't know what your budget is like but I bought a Dan Wesson PM-38 as a target gun, fell so much in love with the Super caliber that this year I popped for their Guardian commander length model. It has an aluminum bobtail frame and night sights. It has become my primary CCW piece.
 
As an example...

I was looking for a used 1911 in 45acp. I wanted upgraded sights and beavertail. Instead. I won this NiB RIA that has everything I wanted for a GB bid under $350 (I can't remember the exact number). It's a very good shooter. The fit and finish are nice. I don't buy many brand-new handguns, but this one was hard to pass up.

 
I will start this project after the new year. I'm in California so limited with affordable options. I have not explored all the options or how many 38 supers are even on the Ca. Roster. I just saw a couple RIA in 38 spl and they were very affordable. Many if not most handgun I purchase end up being modified. Starting out so inexpensive leaves lots left for upgrades.
This also just adds another cartridge to reload.
 
CharliesHammer

This also just adds another cartridge to reload.

Two actually as it's very easy to convert a .38 Super to 9mm. Just add a complete 9mm. barrel assembly and some 9mm. magazines and you're all ready to go! I have been doing this for years with my .38 Supers and it works great!

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CharliesHammer



Two actually as it's very easy to convert a .38 Super to 9mm. Just add a complete 9mm. barrel assembly and some 9mm. magazines and you're all ready to go! I have been doing this for years with my .38 Supers and it works great!

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Nice Colt, I already have a couple Springfield 1911's in 9mm. I had not thought of swapping barrel assembly. What pound spring does the 38 super require?
 
CharliesHammer

I think it's a 16 lb. spring. If you're going to convert a 9mm. to .38 Super you also need to replace the 9mm. ejector with the slightly shorter one for the .38 Super due to it's longer case length. No ejector modification is needed if adding 9mm. to a .38 Super gun.
 
If you cannot see irons and the target anymore, try optics.

View attachment 876694

Clark installed the base. This is the only way way to go for geezers. Just put that red dot on the target and jerk the trigger!
I have been exploring optics and will try different combos this next year. I have put some red dots on a couple long guns this last year.
 
460
I would love a DW in 38 super, they are not on roster in 38 super. I'm also a little tight. The last time I bought a handgun and paid over $1000 I walked with a limp for a week.
 
I have a Citadel 38 Super (made by RIA) and it is a really good gun for the money. It isn't as tight as my Sig 1911, the trigger isn't as nice, but it also cost about half. Reliable and accurate, plus the recoil of the 38 Super in something that heavy is pretty pleasant.
 
I have a Citadel 38 Super (made by RIA) and it is a really good gun for the money. It isn't as tight as my Sig 1911, the trigger isn't as nice, but it also cost about half. Reliable and accurate, plus the recoil of the 38 Super in something that heavy is pretty pleasant.
Thanks for the feedback, reliability and an accurate base is what I'm looking for. Triggers and sights can be fixed. My higher end guns usually get some upgrades. We are so limited here in Ca. The RIA seems the logical choice. And as my grandpa used to say even an homely gal needs some love.
 
The RIAs are 4140 (high strength alloy) slide and frame. Their tolerances vary bit more than sig or colt so you might get a tight one, you.might get a loose one but they are super solid. Here is the dirty secret in two parts,

A.1911s do not have to be press fit tight to be accurate. Only the slide (sights) to barrel alignment has to be super consistent. (Given a good barrel).

2. They can in fact be tightened up in a few ways.

I did a Rock Island TACII bull barrel 9mm for a friend of mine a few years back. With replacing only the ejector we got it wedge tight, hand fitted feel with a 3.5lb glassy trigger, and it would drive the same tack 10 times at 20 feet and lightning quick with factory ammo. It was more like a Ruger MkIII bull barrel in accuracy and return to target than it had any right to be.

Over all extremely impressive for even a $1300 gun and including refinishing and labor he had less than $700 in it (friends rate).

All of that is to say, they run. If you want a cheap basis to make something exceptional, it will fit the bill.
 
The RIAs are 4140 (high strength alloy) slide and frame. Their tolerances vary bit more than sig or colt so you might get a tight one, you.might get a loose one but they are super solid. Here is the dirty secret in two parts,

A.1911s do not have to be press fit tight to be accurate. Only the slide (sights) to barrel alignment has to be super consistent. (Given a good barrel).

2. They can in fact be tightened up in a few ways.

I did a Rock Island TACII bull barrel 9mm for a friend of mine a few years back. With replacing only the ejector we got it wedge tight, hand fitted feel with a 3.5lb glassy trigger, and it would drive the same tack 10 times at 20 feet and lightning quick with factory ammo. It was more like a Ruger MkIII bull barrel in accuracy and return to target than it had any right to be.

Over all extremely impressive for even a $1300 gun and including refinishing and labor he had less than $700 in it (friends rate).

All of that is to say, they run. If you want a cheap basis to make something exceptional, it will fit the bill.
Thanks Barry
I have a good smith here that takes care of me for a sweet rate. I'm good at sourcing parts on the cheap and my friend takes good care of me.
Your post gives me hope that a quality tack driver is possible! thank you for the input! Gotta love THR for all the great responses.
 
Barry is correct on the barrel to slide fit being the most important to accuracy.

I was issued a 1911 while in the Army that was your typical battle rattle. It felt like it would fall apart when I shook it but the barrel to slide fit was good. I never had any problems qualifying expert with that pistol. It was very accurate for something built in the early 40’s and used/abused for almost 50 years by the time I got it.
 
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