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Ring placement...

Discussion in 'Long Gun Accessories and Optics' started by Demi-human, Jul 12, 2018 at 8:37 PM.

  1. Demi-human

    Demi-human Member

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    How close to the, the... the place where the erector tube is. The, center, uh, where the adjustment turrets are... Well, I'm showing my greenness. How close to this center should a human mount a scope ring?

    I am of the "Wider is Better" school of thought, however, with a new AR and rings, and how long the scope is, not every thing is usual. I would like to keep the rings on the receiver, I would also like to avoid getting a cantilever mount. I like it right where it is mounted, but the front ring is very close to the... "adjustment ball".:)
    20180712_195314.jpg

    Does this look alright? I do NOT want to damage the scope!:eek:
     
  2. imashooter

    imashooter Member

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    Goodness that's a bunch of scope. How much clearance between the housing and the rail (front half)?
     
  3. Demi-human

    Demi-human Member

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    One eighth inch. The rail is milled out in the center. That much scope hanging out over the rail gave me pause. I would like the ring somewhere by the 'M' in M-lok, but even a cantilever mount would not be that far spaced, though I haven't shopped them a lot. I like the Seekins / Vortex rings.
     
  4. Varminterror

    Varminterror Member

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    Most guys will use an offset one piece mount for that.

    Is that a Viper HSLR? I have that on one of mine, even when an 18” handguard and 20” barrel with a compensator, the scope looks ridiculously long. ‘Cuz it is!

    You’re probably over thinking it. You have a longer lever arm if you happen to drop it, or decided to carry your rifle around by the objective bell, but for practical application, you’ll be fine.
     
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  5. z7

    z7 Member

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    Do your best to keep the rings on the receiver and then move the scope in the rings to set eye relief for the position you want to shoot from, at max magnification. If prone, get behind the rifle and assume the firing position, and move the scope to find the best eye relief at max power, lightly tighten the rings, check eye relief at low power.

    A solid mounting position that does not flex is critical, as is your position and interaction with the sights, do not compromise there

    As long as the front ring is on the scope tube, go shoot it. If you find it doesn’t hold zero or does not track straight when dialing adjustments, my first place to check for problems would be the rings but you should be fine
     
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  6. Varminterror

    Varminterror Member

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    36440480166_b6c0499181_z.jpg

    Even with a "cantilevered" mount, some scopes are just really, really long.
     
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  7. Dentite

    Dentite Member

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    I would absolutely keep the mounts on the upper receiver. I prefer a cantilevered one piece mount personally but if it works for you and it's accurate, go with it.
     
    LoonWulf likes this.
  8. Demi-human

    Demi-human Member

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    I have an extra cantilever mount, but it is actually closer together than these would be. This Golden Eagle is very nice. And very long! I like the Warne mounts I saw cruising around just now. I will look for the specs from their site later. I would like to find one with a four to five inch inside measurement.

    As long as I am not doing anything foolish I'll leave it there. It's in a livable position fore and aft and it's nice and low. :thumbup:

    I am well known in my neck of the woods for over thinking things, but there's a lot of demolition, digging footings and framing in this scope.;)


    Thank you kindly for the advice! . I'll post a range report when I finally get to shoot it.
     
    imashooter likes this.
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