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Ring question for high power rifle shooters

Discussion in 'Rifle Country' started by TEC, Feb 11, 2012.

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  1. TEC

    TEC Member

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    I am not new to rifles, but I am new to the particular situation of shooting targets with a scoped .308 rifle (CZ-550 Varmint) with CZ rings and a Weaver Nitrex 6-20X50MM scope. The problem I am having is that the scope creeps forward in the rings after a range session with perhaps 50 rounds or so. Aside from cleaning the rings and scope and checking the torque on the screws that secure the tube, if the scope is still creeping, is there anything else to try short of a new set of rings?

    [​IMG]
     
  2. A-FIXER

    A-FIXER Member

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    After your range session do your ring screws loosen up? It maybe you have the correct torque on them but the rings maybe slightly oversized or have a high spot in them.
     
  3. Skyshot

    Skyshot Member

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    Check that you rings are not competely compressed to gether, if so I would replace the rings. If thats not the case I would retorque and use some loc-tite, you might want to go up a little on the torque. You also might try lapping the rings. The scope on my 209x50 muzzle-loader I just ended up tightning the rings almost farmer tight. I'm not recommending you do that, but it solved that problem with the scope moving under recoil .
     
  4. wingman

    wingman Member

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    I've noticed the "creep" problem showing up more and more on boards IMO it's simply poor machined rings,I've transferred most of my rifles to the Burris signature zee rings with inserts, holds the scope firm without marring finish. Second options is lapping the rings many do this as standard procedure.
     
  5. mortablunt

    mortablunt Member

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    Get better rings and apply locktite.
     
  6. Geno

    Geno Member

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    TEC:

    I mount 100% of my bases with epoxy. My rings caps (tops), even though not indicated, are affixed with red LocTite. I also lap my rings, so the fit is as close to flawless as I can get them. I also apply a few drops of either red or blue LocTite in the rings, between the scope tube and lapped rings. My scopes ain't gonna move, period...not until I desire it. Most important, perhaps, is that I use a torque wrench to assure proper and equal application of pressure to all screws.

    Geno
     
  7. kaferhaus

    kaferhaus Member

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    Buy new rings. I've been shooting for 45yrs and never lock-tighted the first screw. Never had a scope or base come loose either. Clean the threads, both male and female on the receiver and rings and tighten them up.

    The big problem in recent years with rings coming loose is the cheap chinese imports. The aluminum they use is way too soft and the steel screws will start deforming the threads in the aluminum under the vibration of the rifle being fired.

    Therefore, I only use steel rings and bases as you have no way of knowing who is outsourcing their manufacturing to china or some third world country. Most Weaver style rings and bases are not made in the US and have not been for more than a decade.
     
  8. browningguy

    browningguy Member

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    I've been shooting 50 years and always locktite the screws on rings and bases, and I can't understand why anyone wouldn't. You have a big heavy scope mounted on a medium recoil rifle, and those rings are pretty skinny. You could also look at different rings, I also use the Burris Zee rings with inserts and highly recommend them, but there are other ring designs that are considerably longer contact area than the ones you have and they would also help.


    Your rings should not be compressed completely together, if they are they are too big, or you have just bent your scope tube.

    Personally I would disassemble, degrease everything, then reassemble with non-permanent locktite on the screws. I even know some target shooters that put locktite on the scope rings where they contact the tube, but I don't do that. It's almost like bedding the tube in the rings.

    Torgue is also your firend, most of us (me included) probably can't tell the difference between 20 in-lb's and 40 in-lb's of torque on a regular basis. Wheeler (Midwayusa.com) make a nifty little torque driver that isn't too expensive and works well for this sort of thing.
     
  9. steven58

    steven58 Member

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    CZ rings can be a bit soft and are not as high quality as their rifles.

    I recommend you get a set of Talley rings. They are very high quality. I have them on 2 rimfires and 2 center fire rifles. No scope has ever moved at all. Here's the website to figure out which ones you need http://www.talleymanufacturing.com/

    Give them a call they know CZs. When I was about to purchase a set of rings for my 452 American based on scope measurements, I called to make sure of my choice. They corrected the height from low to medium due to the relatively high bolt lift of the CZ rifles.

    Also, if you decide to use Locktite (I do) I recommend you only use the blue (temporary) type. The red (permanent) is way overkill for scopes and requires a torch or other high heat source to break the bolts free if you want to remove, remount or adjust your scope rig.
     
  10. klover

    klover Member

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    Forgive me for passing on what I saw on the

    liar net a few years ago that seems to work.

    Get some blue masking tape, tape the rings so they act as a spacer between themselves and the scope tube, Blue Loctite the screws before assembly, and observe reasonable torque values based on the materials the rings and screws are made of.

    It is much easier than lapping, and if no tape cushion is used, it is very easy to deform the scope tube.

    Personally, I have not tried this beyond low recoil rifles, but plan to try it on my uber bangers if I finally decide to scope those.
     
  11. sugarmaker

    sugarmaker Member

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    Coat the inside of the rings and everything else with blue loctite.
     
  12. madcratebuilder

    madcratebuilder Member

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    Put the loc-tite down. Check the rings with a lapping bar to see if they are truly round. Quality modern ring sets should not need to be lapped, if they do buy a different set. Use the lapping bar to ensure the rings are aligned on the rifle.

    For affordable rings I like Burris xtreme, Warne or Tally. The Z rings work well also. You can step up to the spendy sets like Seekins, IOR, US Optics or Vortex.

    Use a torque wrench to tighten the screws. Most are in the 28-32 inch lbs area. Follow the manufacturers recommendations.
     
  13. wingman

    wingman Member

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    I agree with the above,I've never used any sealer/glue in 40 plus years of mounting scopes and only had one(1)loosen and that was my fault. Good/ quality rings and proper tightening will do the trick plus if you need to remove or transfer scope much cleaner and less mess then using various glues.
     
  14. quartermaster

    quartermaster Member

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    I've never experienced your problem, but I once read somewhere that if one degreases the inside of the rings and outside of the scope and applies rubber (contact) cement to the rings it will help prevent a slippage problem. It seemed like a good idea to me. I have never tried it, but if it didn't work, the cement would clean off easily.

    If you do try it, let us know how it works.
     
  15. Fullboar1

    Fullboar1 Member

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    Get yourself some (American made) steel Warne rings. I have used just about every brand of ring on the market and IMHO for the money the Warnes cant be beat. The part number for the Warne rings that suit a CZ 550 (19mm Dovetail) are
    Part Number
    1B = medium rings
    2B = high rings
    You just need to put a G for Gloss finish or an M for Matte finish after the part number (as you have a Matte finish scope I would get the Matte finish rings) and I dont think the Medium rings will fit the 50mm objective so you will have to get the high rings (so order 2B-M Warne Rings). Here is a Warne Scope Ring Chart for you to download.
    http://warnescopemounts.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/2012-Scope-Ring-Chart.pdf

    The rings on the CZ are the same as the Tikka T3 in that they use the Dovetail but the Tikka's receiver is a little better thought out in that Warne rings have a recoil lug on them that fit into a hole in the Tikka's receiver so they cant side on the Dovetail (something tells me the CZ have a hole in the top of the reveiver as well for a recoil type lug on the rings to go in???). The Sako's tapered Dovetail is also well thought out in that the more you shoot it the more it locks up on the Dovetail and is impossible to slide forward. If you want rings to go on a Picatinny Rail then IMHO you cant beat the Seekins Precision rings or the Vortex "Precision" rings (they are made by Seekins).

    Edit: TEC What do you think of the Nitrex scopes? Can you give a bit of a review? Thanks
     
  16. panhead58ak

    panhead58ak Member

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    Today people are using larger scopes they weigh more and with large objectives have to be mounted higher all of this puts more stress on the scope mount.Use premium steel scope mounts clean all of scope ring parts good (laquer thinner) assemble and torque I have had good luck with conetroll ,leupold and talley rings I am sure there are many other good rings out there.
     
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