Rock Island-tell me the truth.

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Ah, thanks, Rob - I was puzzled because it doesn't look like the same sight in the pics you posted.
 
I'll spare you the long story about how biased against anything without a pony on it I am...
That said, the quality of the finish on a (nickel version... obviously, parked is parked, but plating you can do wrong) RIA isn't anything like a (nickel) Colt, but the overall build and fit quality is very good indeed. It'll reallly throw you for a loop when you handle one, I found. Rock Islands are your 70 series guns, solidly built, not taking shortcuts but also without taking any extra pains... A solid basic pistol, and if you're looking for a nickel .38 Super Auto, RIA has the best deal going.
 
Andy, what may have confused you is that the front sight in the first two pics of the gun is the factory sight. I added the FO after those pics were taken. The only pic of the FO is the sight picture one on the bottom.
 
cmidkiff wrote " I still want a beaver tail, better trigger, skel hammer, bigger slide release, different safety... and my gun smith tells me that all of the above will require a good deal of hand fitting, because the fit of the RIA isn't quite up to spec."
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What a load of crap! I'm not calling any one here a liar but I did the whole firecontrol group beaver tail hammer sear plunger disconector trigger and a mainspring house/mag well in a few hours with 3 files a punch a knife sharpening stone some sand paper and a screw driver. Changed the springs and got a great 2 pound trigger. Took it to a gunsmith/1911 builder and got a first class job aproval. gun has never faild and works great!
 
P226 SIG. Trigger ...

Could someone explain how the DAK trigger system works? Does this system adds more parts and make working on the pistol more difficult? Does it remove some of the parts like the hammer reset spring, decocking lever, and decocking lever bearing, and decocking lever spring? Should I just stick with the DA/SA sytem?
 
1911s are also not DA, they're SA.

I'm sure someone makes something that looks like a 1911, that's got a decocker and is DA/SA, but it's NOT a 1911.
 
Ok I found it on the para web site its just DA only
While many people in the industry have tried to create a double-action autoloading pistol, they have always had to struggle against the heavy trigger pull that was required to cock and release the hammer. But it was the genius of Para that finally broke through the old way of thinking. Para refused to accept that a double-action trigger had to be long and heavy, making it hard to hit your target.

Para’s light double-action (LDA) trigger system gives you the smoothest trigger you have ever felt on a double- action handgun of any kind, whether it is a revolver or an autoloader.

The LDA was not invented to replace the single-action trigger on the 1911 pistol. We could have put the LDA trigger into any style of pistol. We consider the ergonomics of the 1911-type pistol to be the best in the world for an autoloading pistol.

For those who must have a hammer-down carry, or just prefer a double-action trigger, we give you the LDA with its natural stroke that is consistent every pull. It is the sweetest trigger you have ever tried!
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http://www.paraord.com/new/product_lda.php
 
I'm not calling any one here a liar but I did the whole firecontrol group beaver tail hammer sear plunger disconector trigger and a mainspring house/mag well in a few hours with 3 files a punch a knife sharpening stone some sand paper and a screw driver. Changed the springs and got a great 2 pound trigger. Took it to a gunsmith/1911 builder and got a first class job aproval.
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Folks, don't try this at home. This can turn out ok, or can lead to disaster. Are ya feelin lucky? Then seek the help of a professional 'smith.
 
Folks, don't try this at home
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If you do not have any mechanical ability, know how, or ingeneral experience then I will certianly agree. It is however quite do-able with a few books and even better if you have a 1911 mechanic show you a thing or two.
 
Folks, don't try this at home

If you do not have any mechanical ability, know how, or ingeneral experience then I will certianly agree. It is however quite do-able with a few books and even better if you have a 1911 mechanic show you a thing or two.
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I installed a high ride beaver tail, I bought the jig and everything expecting it to be easy, after I got the lugs flush with the jig I tried to fit the tail, then I realized that it needed a lot more work. I had fun with it and it turned out great, and dremel sand paper wheels are awesome. It was not an easy thing, especially if you have no experience with a dremel or are impatient.

I have no idea why they even sell the beaver tails with a finish, I had to remove so much metal and after making the back of the gun nice and flush, most of the finish was gone. ;)
 
I have no idea why they even sell the beaver tails with a finish, I had to remove so much metal and after making the back of the gun nice and flush, most of the finish was gone.
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I got lucky with the BT i have, its stainless and it just droped in. I had to stretch some metal slightly then file it down to get a proper fit for the trigger bow block. But I had dedicated time to do all of it in one sitting with no interuptions.
 
Ah yes RIA nothing wrong with any of them. I have a double stack a tactical and a officers size and a built up 38super. All excellent quality for the price. Infact you likely wont find better dollar for dollar.
 
I have two of the RIA GI models, never have bought a Tactical. But the gun that I posted a photo of earlier in this thread, I put the Tactical beavertail on myself. The hammer and trigger just dropped in, but the b/tail required a LOT of grinding and filing, and patience to get it right and decent looking. But, if I can do it, anybody can.

Here's both of my GI's, you can see how much meat I had to remove off the frame horns. The bottom view shows a little extra metal, or "fatness" to the horns. I left a little meat on them for the gunsmith to do the final contouring before polishing and bluing. I also ground the front of the trigger smooth and radiused it, I don't care for the deep grooves in their triggers.

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