Ruger .357 new model blackhawk not rotating cylinder

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by PWGUNNY, Nov 14, 2020.

  1. PWGUNNY

    PWGUNNY Member

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    I went to the range. Shot the 5 rounds already loaded in my revolver. Extracted the shells, reloaded and then the gun would not cock and rotate the cylinder. I was able to "help" the cylinder turn with my left hand, while cocking the hammer back. Each shot afterwards, same behavior. Fired 10 rounds and called it a day. Took the gun home, cleaned it, same behavior. I am not a gunsmith, but I can follow a video well enough to disassemble the pistol. I will attempt to repair tonight. I am leaning towards an issue with the hammer spring. Any insight on this?
     
  2. Steve51

    Steve51 Member

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    I am no gunsmith but if it were me, I would contact Ruger customer service. My guess is, they will have you send the firearm to them for repair. I had an issue with one of my single six revolvers and contacted them. They had me send it to them for repair. Turn around time was less than 10 days and the revolver has functioned flawlessly since.
     
  3. wiscoaster

    wiscoaster Member

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    Ditto above. It's a new gun. Use the warranty. The internals on revolvers can be pretty complicated.
     
  4. hdbiker

    hdbiker Member

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    Rugers Customer Service is awesome. hdbiker
     
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  5. PWGUNNY

    PWGUNNY Member

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    Ten days doesn't sound bad at all. Guess I will call them. Thanks for the responses.
     
  6. edwardware

    edwardware Member

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    Sheesh, you give up much too easily. It ran for 5 shots, and then stopped; you can figure this out!

    Your description of symptoms sounds very much like a burr or shaving binding the cylinder. A little extra friction is enough to prevent the hand from rotating the cylinder.

    Take the cylinder out, have a close look at the frame where the front and rear cylinder bosses contact the frame, and at the recoil plate where the case heads almost brush the plate behind the cylinder. Look at the cylinder bosses for the same. You're after a burr or grit.

    Reinstall the cylinder. Does it rotate easily unloaded with the gate open? How about loaded with the gate open? Loaded and unloaded with the gate shut, and the hammer back to ~1/2 cock to withdraw the stop?

    And if you ever make it to Greenville, I'm happy to look. These machines are subtle, but that subtle.
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2020
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  7. Project355

    Project355 Member

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    Pawl/hand spring, or broken pawl/hand.
     
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  8. PWGUNNY

    PWGUNNY Member

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    I am encouraged to take another crack at this. I will update when I discover the culprit.
     
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  9. JDeere

    JDeere Member

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    Check the hammer plunger which is spring loaded. One broke on my .44 BH and it acted the same way. I replaced it and now keep a spare...
     
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  10. Project355

    Project355 Member

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    Hammer plunger operates the "bolt" holding the cylinder in place. You can start the cylinder by opening the loading gate and barely spinning the cylinder. Then continue by closing the gate and cocking the hammer - if the busted part has fallen out.
    Usually the pawl is not an issue unless it was left out during reassembly, or the spring got mashed by incorrect reassembly.

    With the cylinder out, hammer cocked there should be a springy pawl in its frame window. If its not there or floppy.... Problem.

    Another issue is the base pin, whose spring keeps the transfer bar held out of the way of the firing pin. Base pin not fully seated or spring flew loose from its "staked" position.
     
  11. PWGUNNY

    PWGUNNY Member

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    ruger.jpg
    I took out the cylinder, and I was able to cock and fire the gun. Still no good with the cylinder back in. I further examined the gun with a flashlight and I noticed something moving freely behind the transfer bar. I was able to coax it out with a toothbrush. The piece appears to have shearn off of something. Pawl? I will be calling Ruger in the morning for advice. Bummer.
     
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  12. RKRCPA

    RKRCPA Member

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    Yes, that looks like the tip of the pawl. I sent my 44 Flattop back twice because a pawl broken in the same manner.

    Ruger will fix you up.
     
  13. Project355

    Project355 Member

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    Looks like the hand/pawl.

    Unless you're experienced, its a Ruger job, as each finger on that hand must be fitted. One is tge starter the other is the finisher. Both have gotchas
     
  14. edwardware

    edwardware Member

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    Well done. Got it!

    Hand fitting a new one might be a bit beyond entry-level revolver-smithing. . . so Ruger might be the best option now.
     
  15. PWGUNNY

    PWGUNNY Member

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    I was happy just to get the pistol back together. I didn't want to have to ship them a box of parts. Now I can call Ruger tomorrow. Thanks for the help.
     
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  16. BBBBill

    BBBBill Member

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    Whether you decide to do repairs yourself or send it to the factory you still might want to pick up a copy of the Kuhnhausen Single Action Ruger Manual. Wel lworth the price for the information available at your fingertips.
     
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  17. PWGUNNY

    PWGUNNY Member

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    Thank you Steve51. This was good advice. I contacted Ruger, they had me print a mailing label. I Shipped the gun from FedEx. Ruger sent me 3 updated emails in one day, received gun, fixing gun, shipping gun back. These emails kept me from guessing and worrying if all was received. I had the gun back a day early. 9 day roundtrip and $30 shipping. They replaced the pawl, loading gate spring. I shot the gun at the range last night. Happy Camper!
     
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  18. Project355

    Project355 Member

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    When Ruger does a pawl fit, the usually get the timing dead nuts on too. That is, not having to swing the hammer a bit past full cock to lock the bolt in the cylinder, like is often seen in production guns
     
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  19. shootstraight57

    shootstraight57 Member

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    I am not a gunsmith but I had great success with a free spin pawl from Classic Firearms on my Bisley! Had to fit it for proper lockup but it really wasn't that hard. Patience, trial and fitting were needed.
     
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