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Ruger .44 Carbine Old Model

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by Safetychain, Jul 1, 2009.

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  1. Safetychain

    Safetychain Member

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    I've got a 1969 S/N 100- carbine that was failing to rechamber a shell every once in a while. Upon taking it down, I found that the little tab on the front of the aluminum trigger assembly was broken off resulting is an occational misfeed. I guess I bought it like that (no wonder it was such a good buy) quite a long time ago.

    I can't find the trigger assembly frame or the complete trigger assembly anywhere locally or on the web. I did find some mention that this problem was common, saying that this was the only real weak point in the gun. It's in otherwise perfect condition.

    Ruger has such a good rep about trying to make things rignt with their products, but it seems that this model appears to be a sore point with them saying that they couldn't help me and the solution was to buy another newer model gun. I asked if they knew where I may be able to find the part and the young lady got very short with me. I don't think that said anything to deserve her attitude other than maybe sounding incredulous that they had such a good product but quit supporting it. I just thanked her for her time and got off the phone.

    Does anybody know this gun well enough to know whether building back the part with JB Weld would work? I could also drill and JB, say, 3 small pins and then build it back up around the pins for a little more strength. How about just fitting some sort of spacer into the the walnut stock such that it would keep pressure on the front of the trigger assembly and hold it in place. The ultimate would to disassemble the trigger assembly and use Alumaweld (aluminum welding/brazing compound) to build up the tab. Its advertised that the Alumaweld material is stronger than aluminum. This would normally be "the only way to go" but I'm concerned, with the assembly looking nearly as compact and complicated as a watch, I may have trouble getting it back together.

    Does anybody have a knowledge of this situation and/or any other possible solutions or know where this part is available?

    Thanks,
    Duncan
     
  2. Badger Arms

    Badger Arms Member

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    What does the part look like? Have you tried Jack First? Gun Parts Corporation? Gunbroker.com? Auctionarms.com? I'm pretty handy with metal and many gunsmiths might give a whack at it remaking it. If the original part broke, I seriously doubt that a "JB-Weld" part would stand up more than one shot.
     
  3. Badger Arms

    Badger Arms Member

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  4. Safetychain

    Safetychain Member

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    The only manual I've got is for the carbine with S/N 200-, 300- , etc whereas mine is 100- and is a little different but, the part is called NC 101 (trigger guard assembly) or NC-2 (trigger guard). The picture of the part does not show the tab that broke. It is about 1/8 inch thick, 3/16 inch long and the width of the trigger guard. It fits into a slot at the bottom of the receiver. To install the trigger guard assembly you put the assembly up against the bottom of the receiver and slide the (broken) tab into the slot at the bottom forward end of the receiver to line up the hole for the pin at the back of the receiver that holds the assembly to the receiver.

    Duncan
     
  5. Safetychain

    Safetychain Member

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  6. Safetychain

    Safetychain Member

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    Sorry for the multiple replies but I just lost internet. I Googled Ruger Gun Parts and looked at nearly 100 sites. That includes Jack First, Brownell, Numrich, Popperts, and MidWest gun parts.
     
  7. Badger Arms

    Badger Arms Member

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    Best picture I could find. I thought you were talking about a part. I'd have to see HOW it was broken. It may be possible to fabricate a plate from sheet metal and mill out an area for the plate to affix to the trigger guard with screws. That's the way I would approach it just going by what I have so far.

    [​IMG]
     

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  8. Safetychain

    Safetychain Member

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    I checked out Jack First about 4 years ago when I discovered the problem. I was kind of put out with the problem back then and quit with the gun. Now I've got some time on hand and want to start shooting the gun again.
     
  9. Safetychain

    Safetychain Member

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    That's a good picture. You can barely see the little tab. I'll look into the sheet metal possibility. the slide assembly, C-47, fits fairly tight around the trigger guard on one side under normal conditions and both sides under recoil conditions. But I guess that is why you said milling out the peices. That is definitely a possible solution.
     
  10. Safetychain

    Safetychain Member

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    I'm just catching on that I have to refresh the page to get any possible replies here.
     
  11. Badger Arms

    Badger Arms Member

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    Okay, just took mine apart. It's a pre-prefix model. It appears that the tab you're talking about should be fairly easy to repair. You'll need somebody who can weld aluminum. They have to build-up the tab. Have to take the finish off that area (hidden inside the gun so no biggie). Build up the area then file it down to final size. You can see from my picture what it is supposed to look like. PM me your email address and I can send you a high-res photo.

    [​IMG]
     

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  12. Safetychain

    Safetychain Member

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    Notice the inside lip in the trigger guard where the magazine tube stops against. The magazine tube gets whacked by the gas piston pretty good every shot. My magazine tube has several thousanths inch of play in the receiver/trigger guard hole and the lip is not nearly as large as that shown in the picture. I would think that this is what caused the problem in the first place. I was thinking about putting a large drift punch into the rear of the magazine tube and inlarge the tube such that it fits snug up against this lip where a backwards whack won't try to separate the trigger guard from the receiver again.
     
  13. Badger Arms

    Badger Arms Member

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    Hmmm. Just wanted to make sure you were using factory loads. The gun should not get beat up that much with factory loads. I stick with 240gr softpoints or my handloads to that velocity.

    You should invest in a firearms disassembly book. Gun Digest's rifle disassembly book has the Ruger 44 Carbine in it... just wish I could find mine.
     
  14. Safetychain

    Safetychain Member

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    I do normaly use factory loads with 240 gr hollow point. I reload 44 mag for my Super Red Hawk. I don't hot load any caliber, especially the 44 as I'm in for the fun of shooting and low to medium is already close to taking the fun out of it. I've taken some bottlenecks up nearly to the max in the search for the most accurate case, load, and weight bullet for some long range target shooting many years ago. Now its cheaper and easier on the body to load near the low end for tagrets. Hunting, I usually buy good ammo and sight in for it.

    I do plan to get a firearms disassembly book. In looking for the availibility of the trigger guard assembly, I saw several instances of books and CDs on the subject. I would just like to do a quick review before buying to assure it is what I'm looking for. I've looked at the Gun digest and it looks pretty good. I would like to assure that it has nearly all the guns I own before buying it.

    I got the high res picture and replied via e-mail.

    Thanks Again
    Duncan
     
  15. hurricane charlie

    hurricane charlie Member

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    hurricane charlie

    do any of you have a problem where the next round drops out of the gun and lands on the ground?now at my second gunsmith trying to sort this out.he cant see anything wrong but i will get him info posted here.
     
  16. poppe25

    poppe25 Member

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    hey i was wondering if any one might know were i could find parts for a savage 820b 12 ga shotgun
     
  17. Seafarer12

    Seafarer12 Member

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    Start a new thread
     
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