High Roaders:
This is intended to serve as a humble supplemental reference point for new or prospective Ruger LCR owners who, like me, may find the owner's manual a bit vague, and other online reference material sparse, with regard to Ruger's recommended use of an inch/lb torque wrench for tightening the two torx screws for the fire control housing (frame) and the crane pivot. For instance, the existing reference material doesn't provide the size of the torx screws or provide alternatives to purchasing an inch/lb torque wrench, etc. Like most guys, I'm cheap yet I want to do mechanical things right. Therefore, I did some research on the topic and learned some lessons from hands-on experience in using my father-in-law's inch-lb torque wrench. I do NOT want to come across as a know-it-all authority here. I'm just sharing my findings and experience.
First off, messing around with these two screws should be unnecessary. Removal of either screw is necessary only if you need to perform a full disassembly (which the manual advises against). The Ruger factory installs these screws to the precise tightness and uses a thread locker (likely Loctite Blue).
Still, Ruger advises to make sure these two screws are secure after each range visit and recommends use of a torque wrench when doing so. This will then lead you to do a search for inch/lb torque wrenches, which cost anywhere from $50 on sale to $300 -- and the old addage, "You get what you pay for," is especially true when it comes to torque wrenches. You'll also try to find online info providing the size of the screws. Good luck! Instead, keep reading...
You might already have a foot/lb torque wrench for automotive repair or whatever. However, you cannot use such a torque wrench for this application given the low torque specs for these torx screws. If you don't already have an inch/lb torque wrench, DON'T BUY ONE STRICTLY FOR MAINTAINING YOUR LCR! That would be a huge waste of money in my humble opinion.
Instead, simply spend $5 at O'Reilly or anothe auto parts store for a torx screwdriver in size T-10. This size fits both torx screws. The one I found is the GM Performance Parts Star Screwdriver T-10 x 4", part number GM8774. These are not safety torx screws, so you won't need a bit with the recessed center. Like me, you'll be tempted to look on Amazon for a driver and you'll see T-10 torx drivers designed specifically for electronics repair. I would advise against this as many of these "tools" are cheapos that have the spray-on faux chrome. A legit T-10 driver from an auto parts store should be all you'll ever need for the limited purpose of ensuring tightness of these screws after use. But what if a screw comes loose? Easy...
I used my father-in-law's inch/lb Snap On torque wrench and determined the approximate turns. For the fire control housing torx screw, the manual specifies an inch/lb tightness equivalent to a screw-down to flush plus a 1/5 turn to snug. For the crane pivot torx screw, the manual then specifies a tightness equivalent to a screw-down to flush plus a half turn. Every screw will be different so just use common sense. The key is to not over-tighten these screws out of fear of stripping the threads. Ruger's recommended use of a torque wrench is overly cautious, likely attirbutable to their vision of someone who hand tightens things using one setting -- as tight as humaly possible. Just tighten both to snug while erring on the side of under-tightening. Using a small drop of Loctite Blue on the threads can mitigate any under-tightening.
DO NOT LET THIS PREVENT YOU FROM PURCHASING AN LCR. It's the most innovative yet practical firearm I own. I never leave home without it. It's a true marvel. Please check out the 2009 American Rifleman article for more information about this gun.
Happy shooting folks!
-- Torgy
This is intended to serve as a humble supplemental reference point for new or prospective Ruger LCR owners who, like me, may find the owner's manual a bit vague, and other online reference material sparse, with regard to Ruger's recommended use of an inch/lb torque wrench for tightening the two torx screws for the fire control housing (frame) and the crane pivot. For instance, the existing reference material doesn't provide the size of the torx screws or provide alternatives to purchasing an inch/lb torque wrench, etc. Like most guys, I'm cheap yet I want to do mechanical things right. Therefore, I did some research on the topic and learned some lessons from hands-on experience in using my father-in-law's inch-lb torque wrench. I do NOT want to come across as a know-it-all authority here. I'm just sharing my findings and experience.
First off, messing around with these two screws should be unnecessary. Removal of either screw is necessary only if you need to perform a full disassembly (which the manual advises against). The Ruger factory installs these screws to the precise tightness and uses a thread locker (likely Loctite Blue).
Still, Ruger advises to make sure these two screws are secure after each range visit and recommends use of a torque wrench when doing so. This will then lead you to do a search for inch/lb torque wrenches, which cost anywhere from $50 on sale to $300 -- and the old addage, "You get what you pay for," is especially true when it comes to torque wrenches. You'll also try to find online info providing the size of the screws. Good luck! Instead, keep reading...
You might already have a foot/lb torque wrench for automotive repair or whatever. However, you cannot use such a torque wrench for this application given the low torque specs for these torx screws. If you don't already have an inch/lb torque wrench, DON'T BUY ONE STRICTLY FOR MAINTAINING YOUR LCR! That would be a huge waste of money in my humble opinion.
Instead, simply spend $5 at O'Reilly or anothe auto parts store for a torx screwdriver in size T-10. This size fits both torx screws. The one I found is the GM Performance Parts Star Screwdriver T-10 x 4", part number GM8774. These are not safety torx screws, so you won't need a bit with the recessed center. Like me, you'll be tempted to look on Amazon for a driver and you'll see T-10 torx drivers designed specifically for electronics repair. I would advise against this as many of these "tools" are cheapos that have the spray-on faux chrome. A legit T-10 driver from an auto parts store should be all you'll ever need for the limited purpose of ensuring tightness of these screws after use. But what if a screw comes loose? Easy...
I used my father-in-law's inch/lb Snap On torque wrench and determined the approximate turns. For the fire control housing torx screw, the manual specifies an inch/lb tightness equivalent to a screw-down to flush plus a 1/5 turn to snug. For the crane pivot torx screw, the manual then specifies a tightness equivalent to a screw-down to flush plus a half turn. Every screw will be different so just use common sense. The key is to not over-tighten these screws out of fear of stripping the threads. Ruger's recommended use of a torque wrench is overly cautious, likely attirbutable to their vision of someone who hand tightens things using one setting -- as tight as humaly possible. Just tighten both to snug while erring on the side of under-tightening. Using a small drop of Loctite Blue on the threads can mitigate any under-tightening.
DO NOT LET THIS PREVENT YOU FROM PURCHASING AN LCR. It's the most innovative yet practical firearm I own. I never leave home without it. It's a true marvel. Please check out the 2009 American Rifleman article for more information about this gun.
Happy shooting folks!
-- Torgy
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