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Ruger Mini-30 s/s, locked up

Discussion in 'Rifle Country' started by BigFatKen, Sep 28, 2006.

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  1. BigFatKen

    BigFatKen Member

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    I have the chance to acquuire a S/S Ruger Mini-30. However, while it appears in perfect condition, it is locked up. Carosive ammo was used and not cleaned. If bad ammo was used and not cleaned, how is it taken apart and cleaned? The hammer is down and the trigger is slack. This is reflected in the price.

    A firm blow to the operating rod handle with a rubber mallet does nothing. I hesitate to hit it harder until I get some advise. Is there some trick to take it appart?
     
  2. Crosshair

    Crosshair Member

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    Have you tried liquid wrench??? Does Corrosive ammo even affect stainless steel?
     
  3. SDC

    SDC Member

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    My first step would be to make sure that the chamber is clear (using a cleaning rod to make sure there can't possibly be a round in there); after that, it comes apart in the same way that a Garand does, by springing the rear of the trigger-guard down, then pulling the trigger-group down out of the action. After that, you can pull the barreled action out of the top of the stock, allowing you to see the op-rod (which is likely frozen/rusted to the gas spigot). After you've got it out of the stock, I'd let the metal soak in some penetrating oil for a couple of hours, then you can clamp it in a padded vise and get "hands on" if need be. HTH.
     
  4. BigFatKen

    BigFatKen Member

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    trying, thank you.

    I inserted a screwdriver in the hole in the trigger guard to give me some leverage on the trigger guard. That opened the trigger guard from the frame, but more levereage just bent the trigger guard a little.

    I put it in the garage for a while upside down. I sprayed it with Rem-Oil.

    We'll see.

    Thank you. More in a few hours.
    Ken
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2006
  5. SDC

    SDC Member

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    After the trigger-guard's down, you should be able to pull the whole trigger unit straight down out of the action (it's only held there by a couple of slots/ribs that go straight up and down). The rear of the trigger-guard should be able to drop down maybe 3/4", and this tips two hooks at the front of the trigger-guard out of their locking recesses.
     
  6. BigFatKen

    BigFatKen Member

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    thanks again

    The trigger guard will not come down yet. Should I try a more powerful spray than Rem-Oil?

    Waiting is not a problem. I don't need it for a month.
     
  7. lee n. field

    lee n. field Member

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    At which point you should be able to pull the whole trigger assembly straight down and out of the gun. Download the manual from Ruger.


    Trigger group out, then take the stock off, then penetrating oil in the bolt area, and beat on the op rod handle with a rubber mallet, or put a board against the op rod handle and beat it with a nice heavy hammer.

    Good price on this, I hope?
     
  8. History Prof

    History Prof Member

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    I may be wrong (it has been a while since I owned a mini) but doesn't the hammer have to be cocked in order to remove the action? If so, I think you can use a screwdriver to cock the hammer from behind the charging handle.
     
  9. BigFatKen

    BigFatKen Member

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    That's a help

    There is nothing wrong with the hammer spring; very stiff. I used a screwrdriver to cock the hammer.

    When I was in the Army, I told a DI that my M-14 would not open. It was caked in mud from the day's exercise. He put the butt on the ground and stomped on the operating rod. It opened.

    So, I gave the Mini-30 some bigger wacks to operating rod with the hammer now cocked, oiled, and the operating rod came back. The trigger assembly is now out.

    Thank you, one and all. It should just need a good cleaning. I know the weapon was not shot more than a few boxes of this bad ammo.

    What should I do with the several hundreds rounds of 7x39 that will come with it?
     
  10. ArmedBear

    ArmedBear Member

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    Sell them to someone with an SKS or AK, and no aversion to cleaning the gun fully and immediately after use.

    The Mini should probably only be used with modern ammo anyway.
     
  11. BigFatKen

    BigFatKen Member

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    Thanks again. I can figure the rest out with the manual. Ammo is not going to be used.
     
  12. Crosshair

    Crosshair Member

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    DIBS!!!
    How much do you want for it?
     
  13. CSA 357

    CSA 357 Member

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    WHAT YOU WANT FOR THE RUGER?:)
     
  14. History Prof

    History Prof Member

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    Hey Ken, if you have a digi cam, take before and after pics of the cleanup. Once you get it cleaned up, I bet you're gonna really enjoy the thing! I had a mini-14 freeze up on me for the same reason using some third world stuff advertised as non-corrosive. Non-corrosive my @$$! Any time I use milsurp ammo, I ALWAYS clean right away now. To be honest, I would not hesitate to keep the ammo you have, as long as you are willing to give the Mini a good cleaning immediately (IMMEDIATELY) after each range trip. Have fun with it!
     
  15. BigFatKen

    BigFatKen Member

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    Too late. It is soaking and looks good already.

    My plan is now to let it soak for a day and shoot up the bad ammo on the weekend when my neighbor is up for the weekend. He hates me because I own more land than him and wants me to stop shooting on my forty. I can then give it a good cleaning after I see if the never used 20 round mags really work. Some, I have heard, do not feed right.
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2006
  16. orionengnr

    orionengnr Member

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    yup, I had the same thing happen

    first time I shot my Mini 30 with S&B ammo. Cleaned it (obviously not well enough in that specific area), put it away, went and picked it up a month later....eeek!
    Thought I had broke it but good. Found exactly what you found, and although it did not require as much force to break it loose, it was still more than I am used to using on a firearm.
    Lesson learned.
     
  17. wayne in boca

    wayne in boca Member

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    Mine did that once too,and I kept it from ever happening again by always locking the bolt to the rear after firing.Don't let it cool down wth the bolt shut or the crud in the locking lug recesses hardens.I only shoot crap ammo in mine (Wolf,S&B) and have no more problems.
     
  18. BigFatKen

    BigFatKen Member

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  19. Onmilo

    Onmilo Member

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    After the soaking get somebody to hold the rifle vertical, butt on the ground and muzzle away from them or you and put one foot on the operating rod handle and give a little hop.
    Your weight should break the operating rod free, kick the bolt back and cock the hammer.
    You can't open a Ruger trigger guard unless the hammer is cocked and opening the guard won't cock the hammer on these guns like it will with a Garand or an M14.

    My Mini 14 use to lock up on a regular basis even though I had all the right places greased and shot mostly factory ammunition.
    Hopping on the rod was about the only way I could get it to open up though I once smacked the handle against a post to get it freed up.HTH

    Worse case senario, you will have to replace the operating rod if you are a really big guy and your weight breaks the handle off when it kicks free.
     
  20. BigFatKen

    BigFatKen Member

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    Ah, skipped ahead a little did we? It was fixed yesterday. Thanks anyway.


    Any opinions on above ammo?
     
  21. Onmilo

    Onmilo Member

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    Uh sorry Ken I did at that:eek:

    Shoot the ammunition and clean the rifle.
     
  22. BigFatKen

    BigFatKen Member

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    After I practice the old ammo up, I will keep it as a back up for an extra deer hunter. Any new guy will given a stand where his shots will be < 50 yards.

    Use 154 gr soft point or higher velocity 123 sp for deer? Here is the hunting ammo I am considering.




    http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/AMM636-47831-257.html




    .
     
  23. Onmilo

    Onmilo Member

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    Since you will be limiting the shooting range to 50 meters or so I would recommend the 154 grain load.
    It was specifically designed for shooting heavy game at ranges under 150 meters.
    If kept to those limitations, the load is all but identical ballistically to the 150 grain .30/30 Winchester load.
     
  24. JohnKSa

    JohnKSa Member

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    Ruger would probably repair it for next to nothing--maybe even free. I'd give them a call...
     
  25. BigFatKen

    BigFatKen Member

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    thank you all

    I will be ordering five boxes of the 154 gr 7.62x39 from above mensioned source.

    I'm sure the word "abuse" would cover this gun. I got it broke free. If I had just let the oil work for a day, it would have broke free with a wack.

    I just know THR guys love to give good advise on items llike this so I wrote and it was fixed within two hours.

    Thanks again.

    http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/AMM636-47831-257.html

    No one has said that the Wolf brand is non-corosive. Is it?
     
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