Well guys, I finally got it. If anyone is curious what you get when you order a Ruger New Model Super Blackhawk, let me detail the the exact items I received. 1. Manual for the blackhawk line (A bunch of other ruger stuff was tucked into the manual, marketing stuff) 2. A lock and key, it looks like a master lock but it has ruger branding. A ruger branded masterlock perhaps? 3. The gun, in a plain plastic bag. 4. All of this was inside of a gray plastic hard case, that is spring loaded I think so when you open it the case tries to lie completely flat open. It also has a handy clip to stick the manual and receipts and etc back into for long term storage. I didn't buy the gun for a hard case but the hard case is easily superior to the ones I've received from Sig Sauer, Beretta, Heckler and Koch, and ESPECIALLY better than the keltec box I got which literally was only big enough to hold the pistol, and barely at that. When I added a pinky to my magazine it wouldn't fit in the box with a magazine seated anymore. Now, let me give you some pictures before I move on... I'll be sure to give you some additional photos when I go to the range (targets, range day shots in general). Now, on to my thoughts and questions! Since this is my first revolver I'm sure a few of these will be basic questions but just bear with me if you will. So for starters there are definitely cylinder lines as well as a few scuffs on the top of the frame, reaaaaally minor scuffs that I wouldn't find out of line from a factory just handling it from the line to the box, or from FedEx not handling the package with utmost care... You can see a faint line, and if you were me and got to look at it up close you'd also see tiny little "tool marks" that are little lines perpendicular to the cylinder line shown. The cylinder line is faint in the photo but I chose to photograph it because a visual inspection revealed the cylinder line almost instantly. I also feel like the barrel is slightly rusted. The grooves of the rifling are distinctly red, however I've heard from the internet that that might just be copper fouling. It looks red to me though, and it's distinct enough for me to readily notice it visually. It's just a slightly uneven red coating. It looks pretty matte though which makes me think it's either VERY fine surface rust or some kind of coating- not something I've ever noticed in any of my 9mm handguns from which I fire exclusively jacketed ammunition and which I would certainly expect to see copper fouling from if a single factory round is indicative of copper fouling. In fact, in my automatics I was always told to inspect for any barrel fouling but that it only needed to be cleaned if it could be detected by eye or swab, certainly not a problem to be found after one factory round. I'm pretty sure it's either rust, or something protective, but I ran a swab down it and it came out dry. Nothing came out decently on my camera and I don't want to post what would essentially be a bigfoot photo of "rust" so I hope my words will serve to describe what I saw. I guess I just want to know if all of this is normal or if it sounds like it got unduly abused along the way? I've never bought a new Ruger so I don't know what to expect. I'm not worried about the little scuff or the cylinder line I just want to make sure I paid the "new in box" premium for a reason, because a lot of used guns have "just" a small scuff etc. Now that I've gotten by "critical" thoughts out of the way, let's get to the good stuff!!! First off, the weight feels great to me. I was expecting it to maybe feel noticeably heavy or uncomfortable to hold at arms length for a period of time but I did some dryfire practice and it was no problem. I was also happy to see Ruger prominently stated in the manual that dryfiring was not a problem, very reassuring. I also found the dragoon trigger guard to be no impediment at all when simply gripping the gun. I'm curious if my technique is poor because of that, but I do a "thumbs forward" grip with my support hand cupping the grip and mostly grabbing my shooting hand rather than the grip itself. My left thumb only directly contacts the tiniest corner of the dragoon trigger guard, with the rest of my hand holding my other hand essentially. There is not enough room between my shooting hand fingers and the trigger guard to put any of my support fingers in the gap, not even a pinky. The grips actually feel very small to me and if my shooting hand thumb webbing clears the hammer of the gun, then the meat of my first knuckle on the pinky actually hangs below the bottom of the squared grip. There is not enough grip left for my support hand to grab any of it, my fingers cover the entire "shaft" of the grip. It felt very comfortable in dry fire (of course), but I might need to get some bigger grips! The sight picture is very good, the blades leave a nice wide open target acquisition gap and are very easy to read. Adjustable for windage and elevation on the rear sight which is also quite nice. I hope it will hold it's position under heavy magnum loads but I trust Ruger to install a factory sight that works. The trigger seems excellent to me, obviously it's single action but the weight is light enough I would want to take a measurement before I gave a number because it feels light. I think myself good at taking a shot without rocking my sight picture but with this kind of sight radius it feels like it's going to be an extremely solid shooter. I have a feeling my true praise will come from the shooting of this gun and it meeting my expectations. It's easier to put complaints into words as they are typically technical and require explanations, but I love the heft, feel, and look of this gun. The grips, the stainless steel, the length, the curves and angles, the way the cylinder looks... Everything feels very right about this gun so I can't wait to do a range day and tell everyone about it! Now, time to wind this post down and get to my final thoughts... Maintenance related things! I have no idea what to do in particular for stainless steel that I wouldn't do for tennifer, so I'm in bad shape in this regard. Can I wipe it down with CLP, put some hoppes in the bore, and call it a day or do I need to be a little more or less hardcore? Should I pay attention to make darn sure I lube any areas in particular? The manual didn't really give much advice besides "be sure to lube it right" which was surprisingly vague as it just made me anxious about what I should do. Also, when I was removing the cylinder upon first getting home it came out fairly easily, but putting it back on was kind of tough. The cylinder pin seemed to stick on the way back in so I just pushed it harder and when it finally went "all the way in" the cylinder wouldn't rotate at first. After "jiggling" and actually making the pin seat fully all was well, but I worry that "jiggling" is probably not a great method of parts assembly. Although maybe it is! I just wanted to ask if I need to be more careful on cylinder removal/attachment as it seemed like kind of a pain if you weren't willing to righteously jiggle, as less than a mm in either direction won't let the pin seat perfectly to allow cylinder rotation. Once I got it back on it worked fine so I figure maybe it's just a tight fit. I'm also curious if freely spinning the cylinder is a bad idea. I'm talking lowering the loading gate and giving 'er a spin. Man it feels cool to do but I don't want to damage anything. Thank you everyone for reading and contributing to this thread, I am now in love with revolvers.