Ruger SP-101 + Shims :-)

[riverats]

I grew weary enough of looking at the hammer & trigger-to-frame abrading on my 2-1/4" 357 to finally do something about it.

Paid TriggerShims.com a visit to wise up on their videos and then measured the SP-101's various chasms ... following, were the results:
Cylinder end-shake - < .004"
Hammer - > .017"
Hammer dog - .016"
Trigger- .006"
I ordered the corrective shims, save for the cylinder, which is in-spec & three days later received said shims, along with a very kind & thoughtful letter from Trigger Shims owner, Lance Shively.

I gutted the SP-101 & though I had replaced the factory springs w/lighter counterparts a few years back, I had totally forgotten about the hammer shims, which had to be factory, as the 101 was purchased brand spanking new. The three OEM hammer shims, 2 on the left (??) & 1 on the right measured @ .005" ea., which explains the abrading on the hammer's right side.

Long story short, I installed the new shims per a couple different videos & the end results were day & night. Though I don't have a C-'80s Colt Python at my disposal, I can say the SP-101's action is now akin to and even smoother than (some of) my S&W K & L-frames.

 

[CoalCrackerAl]

I bought my 327 mag SP101 used. I had to send it in for a new barrel. They one it had the bore was very rough. It had upgraded shims and springs. I was not aware it did. Until i got the repair notes.

 

[shoebox1.1]

I have a match champion that we put Wolf 8 pound hammer spring in and I don’t remember the return spring, but it is so glass smooth you just swear that it’s not going to fire, but It always does

 

[shoebox1.1]

My Frank Glenn 67 trigger job rivals it but still I’d give the trigger award to the match champion

 

[riverats]

@CoalCrackerAl ... interesting, the shims part!
I did read that TriggerShims dot com does supply Ruger with shims for some (all?) of their custom revolvers (revolvers I know nothing about ) and apparently, as in your case, for as-needed alterations on firearms sent in for repair.

While installing shims on my 101, I did notice that the frame, where it contacted the abraded hammer & trigger could have benefitted from a wee bit more QC before leaving the factory -- i.e., I carefully filed-smoothed the inside frame at the contact areas.

Back to your Ruger customer service/factory repair experience ... back in the earlier 2000s, I purchased a new Competition Target Model Mark-II that looked & functioned lights out -- and quite accurately (even) in my hands. Shortly after acquiring the pistol, a nephew flew out for a visit & among other firearms, we put the Mk2 through its paces. After his first mag, said nephew commented that the front sight looked to be ever so slightly canted. I looked at it closely with my then-younger 20/25 peepers, but still could not pick up on what he was saying. He persisted, so the following morning, I called Ruger, who emailed me an RA# and as memory serves, a shipping label. A few days later, Ruger called saying that the front sight was indeed slightly canted & that they would be issuing me another, like Mk2 ... in retrospect, the sight issue probably stemmed from a flawed barrel install?

At any rate, I said all that to say that to say that I had a great experience with Ruger & their customer service.

 

[JohnKSa]

I put shims in my SP101 some years back. I just went through my small washer collection until I found a pair that worked and installed them. It definitely helps, although it is kind of a pain for disassembly/reassembly. It would be nice if someone made a hammer with bosses around the pin that could be filed down to fit the gun precisely. Then you could get the same effect but without having to mess with shims during disassembly/reassembly.

The biggest improvement in the SP101/GP100/Super Redhawk DA trigger comes from deburring the inside of the trigger return spring channel in the frame. It won't make it lighter, but it will make it a LOT smoother.

 

[riverats]

@JohnKSa … thank you for sharing the TRS channel advice.

Far too late last night last I removed the trigger assy. and carefully finger-turned a sharp 1/4” drill bit up & down the TRS channel; sure enough, the bit knocked down a couple high spots (burrs).
Followed that up by polishing the channel & the forward plunger. Cleaned, oiled & reassembled the 101 and as you alluded to, gone were the hitches in the trigger’s giddy up.