Discussion in 'Handguns: Revolvers' started by Alfredo912, Nov 17, 2022.
It wasn't very hard to install except one of the springs was a bit too long and it didn't function correctly. After taking it apart about 15 times, I figured out the issue.
They have videos on their site and on YouTube detailing the installation. Check that out to see if you are up to it.
Ruger will still work on the gun afterwards, but won't necessarily warrant it in all situations. For example, if the gun becomes unreliable after the work, Ruger will be happy to fix it, but they'll charge you for it. On the other hand, if something goes wrong which clearly is not related to the gunsmithing, Ruger likely will take care of it on their dime. At least, that has been my experience.
Springs are one of the easiest solutions and sometimes the best solution when working with guns. I am surprised more people don't replace them with ones more suited to themselves or the cartridge being used.
The SP mainspring is relatively easy to remove: take off the grips, cock the hammer, slip the leg of a paperclip through the bottom of the mainspring strut, pull the trigger and then remove the captive mainspring assembly.
One of the downsides to the SP/GP design is the extent you need to disassemble the revolver before you can remove the cylinder to clean its front face -- I just had my .32 H&R SP101 at the range today and it's definitely more work to clean than my S&Ws.
I'm mechanically inept, but I can change out a revolver mainspring to one that's a pound lighter in roughly five minutes.
Ruger must have changed their policy on this in recent years then. A number of years ago if you sent a gun in for any kind of service if it had non OEM parts in it they removed and replaced them with OEM before returning the gun. DAMHIKT.
Ruger's stance has not changed. Your statement is in no way opposite from their policy.
Way off topic…my wife faced the same problem after I bought her a 686 (her choosing, and in fairness - was unable to squeeze the trigger weak handed). She later asked for a 1911…
Many years ago, my aging parent couldn't pull the trigger of her .38 Special SP-101 in DA mode. I took it to a nearby smith but he wouldn't lighten the load due to "liability concerns". He did offer to let me do the work using his tools, which is what I did. I snipped a little bit off of the coil spring, reassembled the gun, tried it, but it was still too heavy a pull. I just went back in and snipped another single coil off of the spring until I got it down to the point they could handle it.
Now, as that was over 10 years ago, the gun now resides in a drawer next to my bed instead of theirs as they couldn't even cock it for single action mode any more.
I did mine about ten years ago with the Wolff kit and instructions from Iowegan. Polished the internals and sides of the hammer and radiused the corners of the trigger while I had it apart. I really like the gun now; wouldn’t have kept it without the trigger job.
It’s less fiddly to work than the S&W 19 I just changed springs on, even though the S&W has a removable side plate. The old Smith didn’t need any polishing of internals though; just the change of a couple of worn-out springs.
Once you have done it a time or two it is easy.
I am sure you will be just fine doing it yourself.
QUICK UPDATE JAN 10, 2020:
Took it to Wright Armory in Phoenix, had springs replaced and gun rough areas smoothed. SA now pulls at 2.5lbs from original 5.0lbs. DA at 11lbs from original
of over 14-15lbs. A happy wife is a happy life!11
I have a couple that I've fixed up okay, but I'd prefer a revolver that's a good shooter right out of the box.
Ruger SP101 9mm by Tallball posted Mar 6, 2021 at 1:49 PM
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