ruger sp101 or SW pro series 60

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Actually, Michael Bane from the Outdoor Channel and Downrange TV reported last year he had video of a S&W revolver locking itself. He posted the report on his Blog late at night and said when they process the video he would put it up on Downrange TV within the next few days. Well, two days later the Blog disappeared and the video was never posted. I can only guess S&W go to him or the people who pay him. Too bad, I would have liked to see that video.
 
What finally made the choice for me was the grip and the larger hammer on the SP101 simply felt better and gave me better control for my hand.
 
Somebody who works, or worked, at Ruger seems to be my long-lost twin, separated at birth, because the SP101 grip, and original, pre-Hogue GP100 grip, and the stocks of several of the rifles and shotguns fit me perfectly. Moreover, the heft of the SP101 soaks up recoil, in conjunction with the perfect-for-me grip, such that even 180-grain hunting loads are not excessive.

I have not found a grip for J-frames that accommodate recoil as well, except perhaps for the Pachmayr Decelerator, which sticks to everything, makes the overall weapon too bulky, and is too squishy for my taste. I have owned several pre-key-lock S&W J-frames, which were/are excellent. One was a 3" heavy-barrel Model 60, and one of my biggest cases of delayed seller's remorse resulted from my parting with it. With a Pachmayr Presentation grip, I could shoot it as well as a 4" larger-framed S&W sixgun, out to about 15 to 25 yards.

In answer to the question, if I wanted to carry Specials, the excellent Model 60 sure looks nice, but if wanting to carry Magnums, the SP101 is my answer.
 
The S&W was smoother but not nearly as strong

Both are great guns. I like carrying the S&W better. How strong does it have to be? Most modern high tech guns are now polymer.

You could build your house out of steel instead of wood. Steel would be stronger ~ but do you need it.

Both will do the job.
 
"Is the model 60 pro series worth an extra $150-200 dollars?'

I vote yes

maybe because I own the 3" SP101, but not the 60 pro
the 3" SP101 I do love, but it's not a really good OWB CCW carry piece for me
the 60 pro appeals to me as maybe the best choice out there in 3", current manufacture, any brand

But I don't much believe in 357 full mag loads out of any 3" barrel, much less a 23 oz, 3 inch. I would load 38+P, not because you will damage either gun with 357, but it's just not a load I would choose for me.

Aside from all the usual/predictable ILS flame game comments, in a 23 oz 357 gun, I would simply have it removed and plugged, no big deal.
(I do think the ILS design is stoopid engineering, fatally flawed design, but it's simply not a deciding factor for me; irrelevant if I like whatever else the gun is, irrelevant if I don't like whatever else the gun is.)

I would love to try a 60 pro, but if I did, I would be pert-near guaranteed to be left with a lite wallet in my hip pocket, and I don't use plastic I cannot pay off in full every week, period. Not for anything, including pizza.
 
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fatally flawed design, but it's simply not a deciding factor for me; irrelevant if I like whatever else the gun is, irrelevant if I don't like whatever else the gun is.

I assume that you will disable it
 
When did they start adding monkey locks on Smiths?? I guess that's what I get for taking that 20 year nap under that tree......:rolleyes:
 
so its possible to remove the lock and have the gun function normal? I saw a video removing the lock on a 686 but wasnt sure if it was a good idea or not.
 
so its possible to remove the lock and have the gun function normal?

many have done so and report good results.

others have suggested that increased liability exists if the gun is involved in an accidental or self defense shooting.

I am not a lawyer, not do I play one on TV.

I prefer to avoid the whole thing, as well as the MIM parts. I like my S&Ws from the 60s or earlier.
 
I am not anti-ils. I have a couple of them. If I could have caught a no lock model for the price I paid, I would have definitely done so. That said my two favorite revolvers are my SP101 and my 4" model 64. No locks, made very solid and fine shooters. I got my SP101 used for $339 spent $75 on trigger job and springs and feel like I got a lot more gun for my money then a 60 pro. If I had it all to do over again, I would still own the SP101. It is my favorite handgun I own.
 
My lock/mim smith is a range/hunt backup gun.

My 2 legged animal gun is no lock no mim. I wanted it this way.
 
Shienhausser is a smart guy.

Take no chances when dealing with the North American Primate.

And I am glad that Shienhausser is one of the good guys. I am glad he does not carry an IL gun for protection.
 
"The SP's feel a little heavy, kinda klunky" This is what sold me on the SP 101. I like the feel of the heavier barrel, mine is 3" {actually 3.06"}, the extra weight will keep the barrel from whipping too hard when shooting .357's. A gentleman I know, who shoots comp. with a revolver, told me the SP 101 is about the best revolver out there today, will handle all loads, .38 and .357, better than most 4"ers of any other make. I haven't had a chance to shoot mine a lot yet, but love the heft and the way the revolver fits my hand. YMMV
 
What finally made the choice for me was the grip and the larger hammer on the SP101 simply felt better and gave me better control for my hand

You'll come to hate that hammer if you shoot a lot of SA. The heavy draw weight and sharp edges tear your thumb up (And I work with my hands).

I took a file to mine to knock the points down a bit, especially on the edges.

so its possible to remove the lock and have the gun function normal?

Yes. Easy to do. There are also plugs available for the hole. No gunsmith skills required, just a modicum of aptitude for taking things apart and putting them back together. The spring loaded fork that used to hold the lock cylinder & cam is what retains the plug.

Post #14:

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1980-present/102217-plug-s-w-j-frame-2.html
 
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