Ruger Standard Opinions

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Good job film495!

I like my Standard and Buck Mark a lot. My FiL's MKII is equally excellent.

The field-stripping complaints have nothing to do with pins or springs flying anywhere. You just have to have a couple of different parts oriented correctly when you slide everything back together. It's mildly annoying, but not actually difficult.
 
You did well. I have a 4.75 and a 6" Standard models myself. The 4.75" version was made in 1976 and is a 200 year commemorative and the 6" was made in 1981. I have several of the standard models and one of the MKI target models with 6 7/8" tapered barrel barrel and they have all been excellent guns. Mine are all heel clip that I like so much.

And the take down is no big deal. I got my first one in the early 1980s used with no owners manual and no internet back then. In less than 5 minutes I figured out how to take it apart and put it back together and had only shot one once before many years before when I was 16. So a disassembly is nothing to be afraid of.

They are accurate enough for any use I have for a gun of this type and it shoots better than I can hold. And I won several trophies using the MKI in the falling plate matches I used to shoot.

Unless your gun has been sighted in by the prior owner you may find the gun shoots a little low. Ruger sends these with the front sight a little on the tall side so you can file it down to suit your ammo of choice and shooting style.
 
Slamfire - I've actually taken to putting a pistol inside a Walmart shopping bag and then mostly closing it off and peeking into the bag if the operation I'm doing has pins and springs that can go flying. I had recently sent a Beretta safety detent spring and pin flying, and found the spring - pin was nowhere to be found. Only a few dollars for a new one, but - even though I had just made the same mistake assembling a week earlier - I did it again and it would have been lost again if I didn't use the bag to contain things. Even with the bag I thought it was gone again for a few minutes. Hate losing parts.

I have tried bags. Replacing the trigger/hammer/sear required too many orientations, rotations and tools for a standard bag . Maybe I need to buy a bubble and get inside of it! Of course field stripping does not have springs flying around like a detail strip does.

I have used a bag for S&W's, and others when I know something is coming loose!

Let he who has not lost a spring throw the first stone!
 
ha ha - maybe a clear storage tub, with holes cut into it to reach your arms into … lol
 
https://ruger-docs.s3.amazonaws.com/_manuals/markII.pdf

Link to MKII manual.

Any tips out there on lubrication? Manual seems to say keep it pretty light on the oil. I tend to run my slides on semi-autos a little sloppy if I know I'm going to the range. Manual just says a light application of oil on moving parts, but come on, that's it for lube directions. What do you really do, pull the bolt back and put a couple drops on it and work it a few times?
 
Yup.
I use Safariland CLP and Weapon Shield in the small vial with a needle spout.

Open bolt, dots of oil on mating moving parts.
Less is more. A dry pistol is a clean and reliable one.
Too much oil in the MK will splash out on your hands and attract schmutz from the fired cases, as well as leak out into your pistol rug or case.

Pictures are always tough for me, but it looks like a very nice pistol. The bolt doesn't look to have any wear at all! Great catch!

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My SharkLite...
 
I would absolutely stay away from the Ruger MKIII pistol. It was such a bad variation that it forced the company to come out with the MKIV. My buds who bought MKIII's, bought Volquartsen parts and converted them to the MKII configuration.

This is the best of the MKI, MKII, and MKIII, a MKII:

A Bullseye bud of mine purchased a MKIV and he loves it. I have been shooting my Ruger MKII's in bullseye competition and I recently added the Volquartsen trigger. I do not recommend the Volquartsen hammer or sear if you have a crisp trigger pull, but the trigger is adjustable for over travel and take up. I was disappointed in the sear/hammer set as the trigger pull had a lot of creep. I would not been able to install the trigger, sear and hammer, without help from Utube.

A lot of folks, including myself, still feel that Ruger should have quit with the Mark II version, but, they didn't. Instead, they introduced the Ruger Mark III version , when a "lawyer" took over the helm at Ruger. The Ruger Mark III is not a BAD pistol, and it does include versions with barrel lengths that the Mark II did not incorporate. Two alleged, safety devices, were added to the Ruger Mark III, a loaded chamber indicator & a magazine disconnect feature whereby the pistol could not be fired unless the magazine was installed. Both dumb ideas are easily thwarted for less than $50.00. A good feature: The magazine release on the Mark III is much more "fumble-free" over the now 1911 style release located at the front of the trigger guard. My personal Ruger Mark III will compete, accuracy wise with the Mark 5½ bull barrel pistols I own. the only Ruger Mark II pistols I have that are more accurate than the Mark I Target, Mark II & III Competition Targets, Mark II Government and my Mark IV Competition Target, are the two Ruger Mark II 10-inch barreled version in blued and stainless steel. Even my long sought after Ruger Mark III 4¾ Hunter shoots just as good as my bull barreled Mark II pistols:

OIKmBT2l.jpg

The Ruger Mark IV is another answer to a problem that never existed. Difficulty with reassembling the upper, to the grip frame, after basic cleaning. Less than 3 months after the introduction of the Ruger Mark IV, there was a recall on every pistol sent out of the factory. The claim was that IF, when the pistol was cocked, the safety was put on half-way and the trigger pulled, then when the safety was pushed completely forward, the pistol would go off. I tried 12 ways til Sunday to try and get the three Mark IV pistols I had in stock to do that to no avail. The two that were bought by customers were sent back to Ruger to install the new sear and safety plate, but mainly because the customers wanted that extra FREE magazine for doing so. I kept a Mark IV Competition Target and it remains, to this very day, just as it arrived from the distributor. Never had any issues with it.
Many complaints from owners concerning the Ruger Mark IV trigger pull, as it arrived on some pistols, it exceeded 7 pounds for pull weight. Aftermarket kits are sold to replace the magazine disconnect parts and also provide a much better sear. These kits run around $140.00. Now, I don't think anyone who has spent around $560.00 for a Ruger Mark IV should need to add another $140.00 to get what they feel they need for a well defined pistol, so I'm working on improving the internal parts, or removing and replacing, only if absolutely necessary:

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this mk 1 came with finish issues and broken grips for 50.00 when I bought it for a truck pistol for vermin, I put these used wood grips I paid 3.00 for at a swap meet. it looks like its been around the block more than a few times and since I bought it i have shot the hell out of it with no problems at all. the best 50.00 I ever spent on a firearm.
 

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I like the standard model a bunch. My dad has a MKIII standard 6" barrel and I have a MKII standard 6" barrel. Both shoot well.
 
https://ruger-docs.s3.amazonaws.com/_manuals/markII.pdf

Link to MKII manual.

Any tips out there on lubrication? Manual seems to say keep it pretty light on the oil. I tend to run my slides on semi-autos a little sloppy if I know I'm going to the range. Manual just says a light application of oil on moving parts, but come on, that's it for lube directions. What do you really do, pull the bolt back and put a couple drops on it and work it a few times?

For the last ten-years I've been using EEZOX almost exclusively. This is a synthetic CLP that works very well on the Ruger Mark pistols and most other .22 rimfires. I use this CLP to coat the bores in my .22 caliber firearms and have noticed that the bores stay cleaner longer without any buildup of the somewhat dirty .22 rimfire stuff.
 
ruger-standard.jpg
picked this up yesterday. took it apart and cleaned it last night. was going to go to range this AM, but I hadn't function tested this yet with dummy rounds - so, figured I'd just do some testing and clean it again - and get more familiar with it.

The assembly/disassembly does not seem that bad to me, although without use of a brass punch and a small hammer I would not be able to either take it apart or put it back together. One thing I did that I haven't heard of or seen anyone do, which worked for me, was to tap the bottom of the bolt stop pin with a brass punch, to get it to pop back in. The owners manual says you can tap it with a punch to get it out, but it isn't too hard to get a punch on it going the other way and tap it back up in.

When I did this, I had the pistol inverted with the top down on the table. Is there anything I can break or damage doing it this way?
 
I have a MKII Competition Target and a MKIII with a 5-1/2” bull barrel. I prefer the MKII but after installing a Volquartsen trigger in the MKIII it feels like a new gun. You can’t go wrong buying a Ruger MK 22. And Ruger has great customer service if you ever have a problem.
 
anyone have opinions on aftermarket grips? I actually like the original grips, but was possibly thinking of seeing if I could find something that was just a pretty basic wood grip that I could put on there that I could weather myself a little and make look real old. Not sure why I like that, just thinking of adding a little more character to it.

https://www.lsgrips.com/collections/wood-ruger-mark-ii-iii-grips
thought I mig
might do a pair of the smooth wood ones, not sure - just looking at options, kind of like the contrast of the maple, but still working it out.
 
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I don't have a picture, but my FiL got a hysterical grip for his long-barreled Mark II. He is 6'8" and (obviously) has large hands. He bought a huge black rubbery grip that looks like something from Star Wars. It's enormous, maybe the largest grip I've ever seen on a handgun.
 
I don't mind the factory original grips, just looking to mix it up. Was interested to see something called palm swell and wondering if that is a way to go. I'm 6'6" and have good sized hands.
 
I have a Camp Perry model MK 1, I have hit rabbits at 150 To 160 yards consistently since I got it. I feel no need to change anything about it. Disassembly is easy once you know how, I can pull mine down in about 15 seconds and can re assemble it in about 30 seconds.
 
I have a Camp Perry model MK 1, I have hit rabbits at 150 To 160 yards consistently since I got it. I feel no need to change anything about it. Disassembly is easy once you know how, I can pull mine down in about 15 seconds and can re assemble it in about 30 seconds.
150 to 160 yards? At what distance are you zeroed, and how much hold over do you need?
 
I don't have a picture, but my FiL got a hysterical grip for his long-barreled Mark II. He is 6'8" and (obviously) has large hands. He bought a huge black rubbery grip that looks like something from Star Wars. It's enormous, maybe the largest grip I've ever seen on a handgun.

Wonder if your FIL bought the Volquartsen Volthane grips?

Like this?
41mHzdNh1EL._AC_SY400_.jpg
 
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