Ruger's 10/22 and Heavy barrels

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Maestro

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I see where many folks talk about floating their bull barrels in the factory receiver.I think folks should check out the Ruger factory Target stock.Mine had a pad about 1" from the end of the barrel channel to support the barrel.It is unwise IMHO to try and free float a bull barrel in a factory "aluminum" receiver.These receivers are not meant to hold/maintain the weight from a steel bull barrel.The MOA and other aftermarket steel receivers present no problems.The barrels and receiver can both be threaded and it works exceptionally well.With the aluminum receivers it will work best to bed the first 3" of the barrel channel plus put a pad at the end of the barrel channel.Or just bed the first 3 or 4" of the barrel channel and not use a pad at the end.The results are very gratifying.
 
Thanks for the advice, Ten Bears.
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Point well made Ten Bears.

After I mounted my 10/22 in a faejan stock with the Volquartsen kit I was surprised when thinking about how fragile the securing mechanism was and what a good jolt might do to that aluminum receiver.

How are you bedding the receiver or first few inches of the barrel?

It would seem to be a way to make the whole mechanism a bit sturdier and to improve consistency.
 
If you remove the barrel from the receiver, you'll notice its set in quite a bit. All the way through to the chamber, as a matter of fact. The aluminum receiver is plenty stiff, the barrel mount is solid and floating works great.

All the pads do is change the harmonics of the barrel so you can tune a barrel's whip to the load (similar to the BOSS system).
 
The pad is meant to help harmonics,yes.But it also provides support for the barrel's weight.Aluminum will flex and stress with a 3lb. weight suspended from it indefinately.But to each their own.Barrel harmonics can be controlled as much by the ammo brand as it can by a pad.Different types .22rf ammo at different velocities will vibrate the barrel for easier tuning also.No one thing alone is a cure all.If the barrel is match chambered,bolt headspaced to .043,bolt chamfered for subsonic rounds,barrel channel bedded,action bedded,barrel properly crowned,trigger job done then the rifle will shoot to it's potential with it's preferred ammo.I am talking about group shooting from a bench or competition shooting at the USBR Target Joe Haller uses for his matches.
 
Common trick for heavy-barrel 10/22's...

Is to fully glass-bed the barrel into the stock, and free-float the receiver. You don't want the weight of that heavy barrel acting like a cantilever into a bedded aluminum receiver, flexing and twisting to and fro. All the 10/22 receiver does is provide a guide for the bolt to ride back and forth in the blowback action, and a mounting point for the trigger group. So what I did with my own heavy-barreled FrankenRuger is bed the barrel, free-float the receiver, and bed the trigger group. Mine sits in a Fajen Aristocrat laminate stock, so barrel bedding is no problem. Now, if it is a Hogue nylon/rubber stock, barrel bedding might be difficult.
 
Man, you guys are taking the .22 a little more seriously than me. Did I stumble into rimfirecentral.com?;)

Thanks for the 10/22 tips. I hope to shoot my new one tomorrow.
 
ColtDriver,
Sorry I missed replying sooner.Your thinking is sound about sturdiness.I bed the barrels with Acraglas from Brownells.But for kicks and fun I have used styrofoam as a pad at the barrel channels end before doing any bedding.A cut up credit card will work also..Adding different thickness allows you to tinker and see if the barrel responds better or not with different ammo.Many guys I compete against just bed the channel only and let the action hang.They do very well also.
CAP,
I have been a regular at RFC for quite a few years.I also support the site with my paid membership and serve as a moderator.Humble apologies if I got too serious.:)
 
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