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Rust on pocket carry 38 - options?

Discussion in 'Handguns: Revolvers' started by brewer12345, Jun 10, 2019.

  1. brewer12345

    brewer12345 Member

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    I have been pocket carrying a Taurus 85 for a few years. Today I noticed some rust on the cylinder (exterior), no doubt from being in my sweaty pocket and getting rubbed constantly. Should have bought the stainless version, but that ship has obviously sailed. I like this little revolver. What are my options? Obviously I could just ignore the rust, let it continue, and eventually demote this thing to a beater/truck gun. I imagine I could pick up a replacement ultralight Taurus or Smith in stainless for, what, $350 or so?

    Another option is that my local shop does custom cerakoting. I could spend the hundred bucks and change to have them strip it and coat it. Would this allow pocket carry without rusting? I sort of wonder if Cerakote is that corrosion resistant.

    Anything else I have not thought of?
     
  2. entropy

    entropy Member

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    You do realize pocket carry means inside a holster designed for such,correct? I assume you are in a humid climate if this is happening. Carry guns still have to be maintained, too. A quick external wipedown with <insert your favorite brand of gun oil here, as long as it's not WD40> , even once a week, will keep it from happening in the first place, or making it worse, in your case. You will have to keep re-oiling that spot form now on, or switch guns to a SS, (which BTW, the same is possible with) or Cerakote, though that is the last remedy I'd recommend.
     
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  3. brewer12345

    brewer12345 Member

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    Yes, this is in a DeSantis pocket tuk. I apparently missed that part of gun maintenance, but of course experience is a good teacher. I am in a dry climate (Colorado), so this is a combination of neglect and my sweat.
     
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  4. John Joseph

    John Joseph Member

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    On the surface, or pitting?
     
  5. doubleh

    doubleh Member

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    Remove the loose rust if any and coat it with paste wax. Johnson's works great and one can will last almost forever. Rewax every month or so.
     
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  6. fireman 9731

    fireman 9731 Member

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    The blued cylinder on my S&W 442, carried in a leather IWB holster has rusted since day one. I wipe the gun down frequently and even oil the holster but I guess my ultra-corrosive sweat just eats away at it despite a dozen different products tried. I have thought about getting the cylinder Cera Koted but then I figured I might as well just get a stain-less 642 the next time they are on sale. I guess what I'm getting at is, buy a stainless gun if you don't rust want on a carry gun. I haven't been able to curb it yet. A horse hide holster is supposed to help too, that might be my next option to try.
     
  7. Pat Riot

    Pat Riot Member

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    I would consider Cerakote.

    Check this video out:


    I have Cerakote on one of my lever guns and I am very happy with it’s performance. I am getting ready to do an AR.
     
  8. WheelGunMan

    WheelGunMan Member

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  9. ontarget

    ontarget Member

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    OP, I had the rust issue with my LC9S slide. I have since switched to carrying a Taurus 85 UL. This revolver has not shown any signs of corrosion after about 6 months of carrying it 16 to 18 hours per day every day. It's much lighter than the stainless version and still avoids the rust issues of a blued piece. I use a Bianchi IWB holster. I have never pocket carried though.
     
  10. Tallball

    Tallball Member

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    If there's quite a bit of rust and you're not that picky about perfect appearances...

    You can sand it slowly and gently with super-fine sandpaper until all of the rust is gone. Afterwards, wherever the metal is bare or almost bare, just use some cold blue. The kind I used on my Single Six cost about $10 for a bottle and put a sort of mild blued finish on the metal.

    The before and after pictures are both of poor quality. Sorry. The finish was originally in worse shape than you can see in the "before" picture. The end result looks better in person than you can tell in the "after" picture. The cold blue finish isn't nearly as nice as the original finish, but it's been 2-3 years and quite a few range trips, and the finish hasn't worn of, nor has the metal rusted anywhere.


     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2019
  11. .455_Hunter

    .455_Hunter Member

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    I am not quite sure what the problem is...

    You have a Taurus 85 that has already served a few years of protecting your rear end. It's not a Python. Rub the rust off with some bronze or copper wool, oil it with semi-regularity and carry on.
     
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  12. GRIZ22

    GRIZ22 Member

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    I've pocket carried blued guns in a DeSantis Nemesis in a humid climate for years. No problems.

    I've been carrying daily for about 45 years. A carry gun is going to show some wear and tear. If you want it pristine don't carry it.
     
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  13. kozak6

    kozak6 Member

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    How much do you like it? You could get it plated. Hard chrome or nickel/np3.
     
  14. The Evangelist Cowboy

    The Evangelist Cowboy Member

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    The UL won't rust easily since it's an aluminum frame. I carried one for 3 years in the pocket and while lint is always a concern with pocket guns that thing never rusted or showed signs of extreme wear
     
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  15. bassjam

    bassjam Member

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    Like someone else mentioned, remove the rust with some brass wool. After that, just remember to oil regularly with a good rust inhibiting oil. The schedule will be different for every person and every gun. I like Eezox, CLP seems to be another common one.
     
  16. bannockburn

    bannockburn Member

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    brewer12345

    I have found Flitz to work very well at removing surface rust without harming or removing the surrounding blued finish. It also leaves a protective coating which helps to keep the rust from coming back. If the rust continues to be a persistent problem I would suggest getting it hard chrome plated. Beretta reblued my Model 70S after I had a surface rust occurance with it. Needless to say the rust returned after it was refinished and I decided I wanted a finish that was longer lasting and very rust resistant. Had Ron Mahovsky of Metalife hard chrome plate it and it still looks like new nearly 40 years later!

    Cqr6BsX.jpg
     
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  17. Mullo98

    Mullo98 Member

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    Just hit it with a brass brush till most of not all of the rust is, rub it with some oil ( hoppes, CLP and the like). And you’re done.
     
  18. becket

    becket Member

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    Spray with penetrating lubricant (I use P.B. Blaster), let sit 15 minutes; spray some also on #oooo wool, and rub semi-gently. You will feel the rust bits. Wipe it down well to remove any hint of rusty streaks, and keep it stored with a thin wipe down of ur favorite gun oil. Don’t forget inside the barrel and action. Here on the coast of N.E. Florida, a nicely blued gun and workings can go to hell just from the salt in the air inside the house, even in a safe!
    A fine old collectable Safe Queen is not necessarily safe over time if not wiped down and re-oiled periodically. Do not forget any extras like spare magazines, either. Don’t be me, and learn the hard way. It involved an unused pristine mag to a fairly low-numbered original, boxed, and un-fired Sig Sauer
    P210-6. I don’t want to talk about it.
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2019
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