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Rust on the Sig

Discussion in 'Handguns: Autoloaders' started by kis2, Sep 2, 2010.

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  1. kis2

    kis2 Member

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    Hello all,

    Just wanted to share a story. I have a sig p226 that I purchased fairly recently. Well yesterday at the range I noticed one of the magazines has several brown spots. Looks like rust, but doesn't really scratch off. Then I saw the same spots (but only a few) on the top of the slide!

    The sig sleeps in a pelican case with another firearm and a few accessories and there are at least 4 different kinds of finished metal in there that in a year have yet to show even a hint of rust (I keep them all well oiled).

    What's up with this? I called them and they said that if I'm keeping it in a case I should thoroughly oil it and put it in a plastic bag. While I would believe that necessary in a cheap case that harbours moisture on a poorly maintained firearm, I have the opposite condition. What it sounds like to me is sig's 'nitron' finish might not be so great and I should look into an aftermarket coating. Has anyone else dealt with this?
     
  2. Dionysusigma

    Dionysusigma Member

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    The grip screws and magazine release on my P6, due to their close proximity to myself all summer, have rusted a bit. Swapped the grip screws for chromed Hogue hex-wrench screws and scrubbed the rust off the mag release with 0000 steel wool and CLP, but I'm seeking a more long-term solution too. :(
     
  3. REAPER4206969

    REAPER4206969 Member

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    SIG's rust. That's what they do.
     
  4. The Lone Haranguer

    The Lone Haranguer Member

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    Newer machined stainless steel slide, or the old style stamped "regular" steel? The latter is of course more prone to rusting in the first place and has only bead-blasted bluing to protect it, and can rust under some circumstances. Regardless of the quality of your case, I do not recommend long term storage in one.
     
  5. seed

    seed Member

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    You should not store your guns in those pelican cases. The foam acts like a sponge and holds onto water and whatever ions or acids (usually from your very human body) accompany it. You should look into Bore-Stores and dessicant (I found a really cool plug-in to recharge dessicant thing from an Amazon store). Put your guns in their individual Bore-Stores in a safe or a safe dry location without foam. Wipe them down after handling them (especially if you are one of those unfortunate acid-sweat types)...a clean cloth is better than nothing, silicon cloths are better. If you have real bad problems, Eezox is fantastic for corrosion resistance. But it is toxic, so use powder-free nitrile gloves when handling in a well ventilated area. Corrosion X is good too and so is Weapons Shield, although I am unsure if they protect when the gun is no longer wet with them like Eezox does (apply it to your gun, let it set for many hours and then wipe off the excess).

    I highly recommend that you use nitrile gloves when cleaning your guns...they will protect you from skin absorption of solvents and your guns from you. You can find them in Costco and online. They are great for so many things.
     
  6. highorder

    highorder Member

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    Bang. Correct.

    Foam that touches your gun will facilitate rust. They should be stored in a safe with humidity control, or in a silicone sock or somilar.
     
  7. AK103K

    AK103K Member

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    Get some Eezox, and use it when you clean and on your wipe down rag. I've had tools and a couple of guns in a damp basement for over a year without reapplication, and no rust what so ever.

    This is news to me, where did you hear this?

    Not quite, a light coat applied while cleaning is fine, just wipe the excess when youre done cleaning.
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2010
  8. kis2

    kis2 Member

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    I agree a safe would be ideal, but the case is what I have for now and will have to make due. It's nice foam and I keep several dehydration packets in there which must help. And I live in a desert. maybe I should think about putting them in the case sans the foam while at home for now...

    The point is that all things were equal for all these weapons (a 700, a glock, a sig and their various magazines) and being taken out every week, likely shot, then thoroughly cleaned and wiped with oil, none of them have rusted but the sig. unsat. even the aftermarket sig mag didn't rust, just the factory metal.

    thanks all
     
  9. Airman193SOS

    Airman193SOS Member

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    My SIG P239 has rusted from the day I got it. Hell, it was shipped to me (admittedly used) with rust on it. It's merely superficial and easy to get rid of, but like the OP I am curious about what it is about SIG weapons that causes this to happen. It's a nice weapon and it shoots beautifully, but for the rusting issue it would be everything I could ask for.
     
  10. TexasGunbie

    TexasGunbie Member

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    Here is a cool trick I have up my sleeves.

    Sometimes when I open a pack of food and find preservatives packs in it. I save them and put it in my gun cases. They work quite well.

    But yeah, now you learn your lesson, try to oil your guns often. If you live near coastal regions and is humid, you need to oil more often.
     
  11. Full Metal Jacket

    Full Metal Jacket member

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    they also lighten your wallet considerably before they rust :eek:
     
  12. Full Metal Jacket

    Full Metal Jacket member

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    i've been using foam cases for almost 20 years on quite a few different brand guns, and never had one rust. i don't think most of the major pistol manufacturers would store and sell their guns in cases that facilitate rust.





    this.
     
  13. 9mmepiphany

    9mmepiphany Moderator

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    That's why they drench them in oil and wrap them in plastic bags before putting them in the foam
     
  14. gwnorth

    gwnorth Member

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    My two SIGs, a P226 (alloy frame, nitron coated stainless steel slide) and an all stainless steel P232, have never had rust issues. However, the older stamped carbon steel slides are much more prone to problems and require more diligent preventative care. I'd also note that the older mags also seem more prone to rust then the newer ones as the finish on the new OEM mags seems much better.
     
  15. Bovice

    Bovice Member

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    No rust on mine!
     
  16. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

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    One of the best rust protection for a firearm is several coats of Johnson's Paste Floor Wax, hand rubbed on, and left to dry. It won't attract dirt & lint like oil, won't rub off or stain your clothes like oil, and prevents mosture & sweat from getting a foothold on the metal.

    http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=4110525&postcount=7

    On the otherhand, some people have toxic sweat that will rust the chrome off a Harley-Davidson tailpipe while you stand there and watch it.

    There is no hope for you, except Hard Chrome or one of the baked on paint finishes.

    rc
     
  17. kis2

    kis2 Member

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    Looks like what I'm going to do is send it to CCR refinishing (found them here on THR). I just can't believe the finsih on this expensive pistol is so inferior to that of the glock and parkerized 700.

    But hey, if it's going to get refinished, I may as well get it to match the rifle right :D
     
  18. franconialocal

    franconialocal Member

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    When I first became a police officer I was issued a 13 year old Sig P-220 .45 auto DA/SA that had been issued to several individuals over the years before me. I loved this sidearm (shot true and reliably), but it did have a rust problem. Due to wear from the holster and less than diligent care of previous owners it was literally pitted on the top of the slide, the mags would get the above described rust spots, etc. I worked like a dog to get it back to "normal", including my Sgt. doing a re-bluing (more than once). FINALLY two years ago they issued me a brand new P-220 with night sights, rail, stainless slide, etc.

    At first it was easy for me to play the blame game from previous owners, but after refurb'ing it to my OWN standards (very particular with my weapons)and STILL dealing with nagging rust I knew there was a deeper problem.
    We are on a set schedule of weapon inspections and cleaning and EVEN THEN there was constant pitting, tarnish, and brown spots. It seemed like I just couldn't oil the thing enough....summer, winter (salt), or in between. It didn't matter what I did or how I stored it....at least once a week I had to take it out and inspect it and wipe it down AND THEN SOME. I love Sig products, and I stand behind them, but this particular one def. had some problems with the hard coat or metals involved. I was happy to see this one go down the line.
     
  19. 9mmepiphany

    9mmepiphany Moderator

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    CCR are excellent to deal with and their work product is outstanding. You can look on Sig Forum to see some of their work
     
  20. 1KPerDay

    1KPerDay Member

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    Both of mine must be defective. I'll need to send them back for some factory rust, I guess.
     
  21. Full Metal Jacket

    Full Metal Jacket member

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    you're sending your gun to credence clearwater revival? :eek:
     
  22. Full Metal Jacket

    Full Metal Jacket member

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    yep, i always over oil my guns lol. however, glocks and and m&p's aren't swimming in oil in the foam case from the factory...
     
  23. Manco

    Manco Member

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    They do continue to protect, although Weapon Shield isn't quite up at the same level--it's excellent for a CLP oil, though. Weapon Shield Grease, on the other hand, has proven to be just as effective, at least in my tests. Overall, CorrosionX is probably the most convenient, and it's relatively non-toxic (as are the Weapon Shield products).

    It's all relative, but here is the MSDS for Eezox, which lists inhalation as toxic:

    http://www.eezox.info/msds.html
     
  24. KingMedicine

    KingMedicine Member

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    My sigs magazines are completely prone to rust. I have to oil them every six months and give them a good rubdown. Sig original mags seem to be the only ones that have this issue.
     
  25. kis2

    kis2 Member

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    I have to RUN THROUGH THE JUNGLE and then get on PROUD MARIE and drop it off to SUSIE Q, but yes, I'm taking it to CCR!

    Thanks for the advice all, good to know I'm not the only one.
     
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