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Rust prevention & my toxic sweat

Discussion in 'Handguns: Autoloaders' started by conw, Jul 21, 2009.

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  1. conw

    conw Member

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    Hey guys,

    So I got my blued KT p11 back recently, like new from factory with replaced slide and barrel, and I carry with a belt clip. Expected it to hold up fairly well, but it is rusting faster than ever. I do steel wool and car wax every couple days as has been suggested here before, but what are my options? I know about hard chroming, and KT will do it for $30 IIRC, ,but I don't want any more time w/o my only carry gun.

    I also know of Wheeler spray and bake finish and Dura-kote, but have heard little about the former and mixed reviews of the latter. I don't need a total solution to rust, just something to make my sweat bead off rather than corrode immediately. Wheeler and Dura are both $30ish, too. Cheaper and easier would be better, even if less permanent.

    Anyone know of a home brew solution? I don't even care about refinishing it or not, repeated applications are fine.
     
  2. Zerodefect

    Zerodefect Member

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    Send the slide and barrel off to CCR.

    I've found that my Keltec rust as quickly as my 1911's. Can't even mention the world rust at my place, dem's fight'n words.
     
  3. conw

    conw Member

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    Zero - what's CCR?
     
  4. blakeci

    blakeci Member

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    CCR
    Creedance Clearwater Revival- best music ever! J/K:D
     
  5. conw

    conw Member

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    Have You Ever Seen the Rust? my least favorite song!
     
  6. MikePaiN

    MikePaiN Member

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    My PF9 slide has never had the slightest hint of rust....it is factory parkerized.
    I carry ItW also, there is almost always some moisture from sweat on the gun.
     
  7. todd_g

    todd_g Member

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    Try Rem Oil, I have been using it for years for cleaning and protecting the finish of all of my handguns and hunting rifles, Rem Oil has teflon in it making water bead off of it, with continuous wipe downs every few days or every week you will never see rust again, also you will not have to worry about sand or dirt sticking to the surface as it will not leave an oily film.
     
  8. CoRoMo

    CoRoMo Member

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    conwict...

    I remember your thread about the broken ejectors, but was that what you sent it back to KT for? I couldn't find any other thread of yours about the P11's issues other than that one.

    Here in Colorado, it never gets as humid as it does where you are. Mine has never even shown a spec of rust as of yet.
     
  9. conw

    conw Member

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    I sent it back because it broke 3 or 4 ejectors. The guy on the phone said it was 99% sure to be a tolerance issue. I wasn't doing anything crazy with it, either. It would break sometimes after 500, sometimes after 150 rounds of WWB.

    I wish I had paid them to Parkerize it before I got it back.

    Basically it's got very little between my lower back/hip and the finish, if anything. The finish comes into contact with skin, sometimes sweaty, sometimes for hours a day. And it is rusting immediately. Just surface rust, but ugly and I want to prevent it before it starts to get deeper.

    I have CLP and Rem Oil, I will try these out after buffing it tonight with 0000 steel wool.
     
  10. AK103K

    AK103K Member

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    Try Eezox. Theres really nothing better chemical wise for keeping rust at bay.

    If you want something a little more permanent, then get it hard chromed.
     
  11. Fumbler

    Fumbler Member

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    If Kel-Tec will hard chrome a slide for $30 then that is your cheapest and best solution for rust prevention.

    I don't know what the prices are, but I find it hard to believe that you can get a slide refinished in something like Duracoat for as cheap as $30.

    Like I said, hard chrome would be the best way to go. If you don't want to disable your carry gun then you could refinish it yourself with a bake on finish (Duracoat takes weeks to fully cure).

    I've refinished a few things with KG Gun-Kote with good success.
    All you need is an air brush ($25), canned air ($10), and Gun-Kote in your favorite color ($8). That costs more than the hard chrome, but you could do quite a few slides and magazines with a small bottle of Gun-Kote.
    If you don't want to spend that much, just buy a rattle can of bake on finish. The finish won't be as consistent, but would definately be good enough for a carry gun.

    You will also need to have your slide sandblasted. I don't know if you have access to one, but some machine shops will do it for you. Just take the barrel, extractor, and firing pin out first.

    The process for refinishing with a bake on finish goes like this:
    -Strip off all small parts
    -Clean slide (brake cleaner)
    -Sand blast with aluminum oxide until the original finish is gone
    -Clean slide with soap, a nylon brush, and water to make sure you get all the grit out.
    -Clean slide with brake cleaner again, but be sure not to touch the slide with your skin or anything that is dirty (I hang the part on a metal wire before the final cleaning so I don't have to touch it)
    -Preheat part in oven
    -Spray on the finish
    -bake following manufacturer's instructions
     
  12. Zerodefect

    Zerodefect Member

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  13. conw

    conw Member

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    Thanks guys, very helpful. For now CLP has been working to keep it at bay, applied daily.
     
  14. kmullins

    kmullins Member

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    Eezox does work wonders. I thought it was just another snake oil rust preventing gimmick but I'm addicted to it now. It's keep the rust out of a Remington 870 barrel that has a tendeny to get dark after only a few weeks of leaving it to sit. Give it a shot.
     
  15. conw

    conw Member

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    Thanks a lot man. Will do. Where do you order?
     
  16. kmullins

    kmullins Member

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    I ordered some from MidwayUSA, it was around $4.99 for a 4 oz can. It says to use it very sparingly and it can last a long time.
     
  17. c919

    c919 Member

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    So, are you carrying without any holster? Just the KT belt clip?

    If so, it would probably be best just to get a good IWB to put a barrier between you and the gun..... and to have the safety of a trigger guard.
     
  18. stevemis

    stevemis Member

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    I've had good luck lately with CLP. I apply it liberally and let it "bake" for several hours under a halogen light before wiping it down with a microfiber towel.

    You could probably heat the pistol up with a hair dryer or leave it in the car on a hot day... I just put the gun on a cardboard box on top of the stove (to elevate it) and turn on the halogen lights in the vent hood. My pistol gets up to about 120 degrees in 20 minutes and will stay there as long as I leave the lights on.

    You might want to reconsider steel wool. You're probably leaving tiny pieces of it on the gun and causing rust.
     
  19. tydephan

    tydephan Member

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    I would agree with changing your method of carry. Get a good IWB holster that provides a barrier between your sweat and the gun.

    It would probably be your most immediate option without further modifying the gun or having to be without it for a certain amount of time. Comp-tac's line of holsters have served me well, but they are more pricey than your quoted refinishing price. I paid $80 for my CTAC for my M&P9c. I have a high toxicity level in my sweat as well and this solved all my issues with rusting.

    Good luck to ya!
     
  20. conw

    conw Member

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    Steve, thanks. CLP is still working well, will try your method also. I have stopped with the steel wool since the rust is no longer forming. Just using a microfiber to wipe the CLP off.

    As far as IWB holsters, I will have to give it some thought. Honestly this method works better than you'd imagine with a good belt, and I don't get my panties in a wad over ADs (get it? my undergarment would have to wad up in a bizarre way to pull the trigger, it was a joke :p). I think I'll go try out some clip-on IWB holsters in a shop though and see if I can still conceal easily in a tank top, etc. This belt clip lets me conceal in anything. Oh, and I am into bodybuilding and my waist size fluctuates a bit...it's on the lower end of the spectrum now, so I can easily fit more into my waistband...LOL.
     
  21. conw

    conw Member

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    CLP seems to do the trick for now. Cheap and easy. If I get an IWB holster it will probably be the Robert Mika clip-on IWB.
     
  22. John Parker

    John Parker Member

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    I used to oil my 1911 daily with Rem Oil, and it didn't help at all. I wonder why we had such different experiences?
     
  23. DNA

    DNA Member

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    Another thing you can try is the dry lubrication sprays with teflon, such as the Liquid Wrench brand of dry lubes. A friend of mine used to carry a blued 1911 that would rust even if he wiped the bugger down every day with oils. The teflon spray worked very well for him and he swore by it after using it. :)

    Dan
     
  24. vanfunk

    vanfunk Member

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    Likely a modest contribution, but I think the rubbing with steel wool may make the problem worse. First, the steel wool will remove rust, but it'll also remove finish. Second, "bits" of steel wool are likely to embed themselves in the metal of the slide, which then rusts.

    For a long term solution, I think KEl-Tec's offer to hard chrome the slide for $30 is the way to go.

    vanfunk
     
  25. conw

    conw Member

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    I think I was off, think HC is likely to be $60. Blued P11 MSRP: $333, HC P11: $390.

    They will probably exchange if you pay the difference, would be my guess.

    The CLP is working great though...just let it soak every few days for an hour or so then wipe off. I am going to try baking it like someone above said.

    If it ever stops working have Rem Oil and Rem Drilube to try too.
     
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