Rust removal?
- Thread starter Meatax
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LiveLife
Member
I think someone mentioned using ATF (transmission fluid) for the rust on another thread - Haven't tried it myself, but was planning to try it on other non-gun rust (like my hedge clippers).
I have used WD40 in the past with good success for surface rust.
I have used WD40 in the past with good success for surface rust.
dagger dog
Member
Kroil works well with the 0000 wool.
Badlander
Member
I had good results with 10w30 motor oil and 0000 wool. But I like the Kroil idea.
Wouldn't try 0000wool without some lube!
Wouldn't try 0000wool without some lube!
jimmyraythomason
Member
Won't hurt anything to use it dry as long as you don't rub too vigorously. It definitely does work better with a light oil though,kroil,WD-40 Rem-oil,etc.
nwilliams
Member
One word: Flitz
bobelk99
Member
Soak the rust with Kroil for a couple of hours. Then scrub with 0000 wool.
If that don't do it, you can go to coarser wool, but be aware that anything more coarse than 0000 is going to create visible finish damage.
If that don't do it, you can go to coarser wool, but be aware that anything more coarse than 0000 is going to create visible finish damage.
BCRider
Member
For surface rust that hasn't formed any major pitting the oil and wool works really well. But for rust that has actually cut deeper into the metal the damage isn't really repairable in many cases.
If the pitting isn't TOO deep sometimes the part can be sanded down to remove the surrounding metal until the outer surface is down to the lower points of the pitting. But obviously this is no good for pitting that is more than a few thou deep. Following this sanding down part the metal is sanded with progressively finer grits and perhaps polished until the surface is what you want. At that point you get it re-blued.
If it's deeper than that and provided it's not so deep that the strength is compromised then really the only option is to fill in the pitting with some form of filler and paint the gun using one of the tough gun finishes. The filler can be something like plumbing solder or even automotive bondo. Although the solder would stick better if you can manage to clean the pitted areas down to base metal with wire brushes.
If the pitting isn't TOO deep sometimes the part can be sanded down to remove the surrounding metal until the outer surface is down to the lower points of the pitting. But obviously this is no good for pitting that is more than a few thou deep. Following this sanding down part the metal is sanded with progressively finer grits and perhaps polished until the surface is what you want. At that point you get it re-blued.
If it's deeper than that and provided it's not so deep that the strength is compromised then really the only option is to fill in the pitting with some form of filler and paint the gun using one of the tough gun finishes. The filler can be something like plumbing solder or even automotive bondo. Although the solder would stick better if you can manage to clean the pitted areas down to base metal with wire brushes.
bobelk99
Member
Flitz is a metal polish, much like Simichrome polish. I have used it to shine the bolster on folding knives.
It does a beautiful job of making nickel silver knife bolster shine, and works on auto chrome. It is an abrasive compound. I would personally not use it on gun blue.
It does a beautiful job of making nickel silver knife bolster shine, and works on auto chrome. It is an abrasive compound. I would personally not use it on gun blue.
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