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Rust removal?

Discussion in 'Rifle Country' started by Meatax, Apr 11, 2010.

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  1. Meatax

    Meatax Member

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    I just bought a remington 7 MAG that was not taken care of. I got a lot of the rust off with dry steel whool but some of it wont budge. Anything I can put on it to help?
     
  2. bds

    bds Member

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    I think someone mentioned using ATF (transmission fluid) for the rust on another thread - Haven't tried it myself, but was planning to try it on other non-gun rust (like my hedge clippers).

    I have used WD40 in the past with good success for surface rust.
     
  3. Meatax

    Meatax Member

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    bds, I will try the WD-40. Thank you for the reply.
     
  4. dagger dog

    dagger dog Member

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    Kroil works well with the 0000 wool.
     
  5. Badlander

    Badlander Member

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    I had good results with 10w30 motor oil and 0000 wool. But I like the Kroil idea.
    Wouldn't try 0000wool without some lube!
     
  6. jimmyraythomason

    jimmyraythomason Member

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    Won't hurt anything to use it dry as long as you don't rub too vigorously. It definitely does work better with a light oil though,kroil,WD-40 Rem-oil,etc.
     
  7. nwilliams

    nwilliams Member

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    One word: Flitz
     
  8. bobelk99

    bobelk99 Member

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    Soak the rust with Kroil for a couple of hours. Then scrub with 0000 wool.

    If that don't do it, you can go to coarser wool, but be aware that anything more coarse than 0000 is going to create visible finish damage.
     
  9. Meatax

    Meatax Member

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    The WD-40 and steel whool worked very well, thanks for the info. What is Flitz? I am going to be working over a rifle sonn for my bro-in-law that is much worse than mine.
     
  10. CZguy

    CZguy Member

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    Bronze wool and any light weight oil.
     
  11. BCRider

    BCRider Member

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    For surface rust that hasn't formed any major pitting the oil and wool works really well. But for rust that has actually cut deeper into the metal the damage isn't really repairable in many cases.

    If the pitting isn't TOO deep sometimes the part can be sanded down to remove the surrounding metal until the outer surface is down to the lower points of the pitting. But obviously this is no good for pitting that is more than a few thou deep. Following this sanding down part the metal is sanded with progressively finer grits and perhaps polished until the surface is what you want. At that point you get it re-blued.

    If it's deeper than that and provided it's not so deep that the strength is compromised then really the only option is to fill in the pitting with some form of filler and paint the gun using one of the tough gun finishes. The filler can be something like plumbing solder or even automotive bondo. Although the solder would stick better if you can manage to clean the pitted areas down to base metal with wire brushes.
     
  12. bobelk99

    bobelk99 Member

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    Flitz is a metal polish, much like Simichrome polish. I have used it to shine the bolster on folding knives.

    It does a beautiful job of making nickel silver knife bolster shine, and works on auto chrome. It is an abrasive compound. I would personally not use it on gun blue.
     
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