Rigby470
Member
I have a choke tube in my Browning Gold which I think has rusted and I cannot remove it with the key-type choke tube wrench.
Anyone have any suggestions?
Anyone have any suggestions?
Rusted/siezed choke tube-Help!
- Thread starter Rigby470
- Start date
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sm
member
Remove barrel from gun.
Ballistol penetrates. This is what I used recently for a similar problem.
Just keep applying, and let soak in.
Now if you have a chest freezer, put the barrel in the freezer.
If you want, Just coat the barrel/ bore with Ballistol to protect.
Sometimes the freezing constricts enough to allow the stuck pc to break loose.
Try to tighten, then loosen.
Seafoam or Deep Creep ( spray version of Seafoam ) are very good too.
Ballistol penetrates. This is what I used recently for a similar problem.
Just keep applying, and let soak in.
Now if you have a chest freezer, put the barrel in the freezer.
If you want, Just coat the barrel/ bore with Ballistol to protect.
Sometimes the freezing constricts enough to allow the stuck pc to break loose.
Try to tighten, then loosen.
Seafoam or Deep Creep ( spray version of Seafoam ) are very good too.
Fred Fuller
Moderator Emeritus
Sometimes heat helps too. Try removing the barrel from the gun, heating the muzzle end with a blow dryer and immediately soaking it in a small container of penetrating oil or kerosene for a day or so. If that works and you can remove the choke tube, be sure you use a good choke tube lube when you re-install it.
If your own slow, patient, careful attempts don't work- then it's time for some professional help. If you have a good local gunsmith, pass it off to them. If not, either the factory or a good barrel shop is indicated- Colonial Arms, Briley, Nu-Line or whoever is handy for you.
Good luck with it,
lpl/nc
If your own slow, patient, careful attempts don't work- then it's time for some professional help. If you have a good local gunsmith, pass it off to them. If not, either the factory or a good barrel shop is indicated- Colonial Arms, Briley, Nu-Line or whoever is handy for you.
Good luck with it,
lpl/nc
The absolute best penetrating oil ever is Kroil. Keep it wet for a few days, then get a GOOD choke wrench with a handle and put it in. Hold the wrench down with one hand and smack the handle of the choke wrench with a mallet. You will get a world more torque on the tube without damaging anything this way, and it will come out. The Kroil will give you your best chance of not ruining the barrel threads.
Now you know that choke tubes must be installed with grease, not just oil. I use Rig +P lube, but any good grease will work. Anti-seize is the only other choke tube lube you can even consider. Oil just won't cut it in this application.
Now you know that choke tubes must be installed with grease, not just oil. I use Rig +P lube, but any good grease will work. Anti-seize is the only other choke tube lube you can even consider. Oil just won't cut it in this application.
MCgunner
Member
Wonder if "never-seize" would work? It's a grey, goopy, nasty grease used in industry for coating bolts on pipe flange assembly to keep the bolts from prematurely rusting up. Don't get this stuff on clothing, messy.
oletymer
Member
Lube the tubes guys. I helped a fellow club member get one out. We soaked the end of the barrel in a can of wd40 for three days and the choke came out. You should remove the tubes every couple of months and clean and re grease them to avoid this problem.
MCgunner
Member
This thread got me to pull out my two choke tubed shotguns and pull and re-grease them for the heck of it. 
They were pretty greasy, but you can't be too vigilant.
They were pretty greasy, but you can't be too vigilant.sm
member
Never had one sieze personally.
Then again I prefer external knurled , and only finger tight.
Got one shotgun with with over 200K rds thru it, Nu-Line external knurled never a problem - again finger tight.
I hate the whole idea of internal chokes, for too many reasons.
Then again, I am not upset with fixed choked barrels, if screw in chokes disappeard tomorrow - I would not care one whit.
Why the gun I have used most often of late and keep handy - NEF Youth 20 ga single shot - fixed mod barrel.
I get rich, got a few fixed choked barrels I want made...no wrenches no chokes no nuttin'.
Going backwards on this firearm bit, piddlin' with BB Guns and slingshots more these days too.
Then again I prefer external knurled , and only finger tight.
Got one shotgun with with over 200K rds thru it, Nu-Line external knurled never a problem - again finger tight.
I hate the whole idea of internal chokes, for too many reasons.
Then again, I am not upset with fixed choked barrels, if screw in chokes disappeard tomorrow - I would not care one whit.
Why the gun I have used most often of late and keep handy - NEF Youth 20 ga single shot - fixed mod barrel.
I get rich, got a few fixed choked barrels I want made...no wrenches no chokes no nuttin'.
Going backwards on this firearm bit, piddlin' with BB Guns and slingshots more these days too.
ID_shooting
Member
We had a Mossburg do that too us a few years back. We submerged the muzzle of the barrel in a coffee can of diesel and let it sit over night, came right out.
Kingcreek
Member
+1 on the Kroil.
I discovered that magic stuff years ago and can't imagine life without it. got the manifold bolts out and everything else loosened up on a "pastured" model T and helped with resoration of 2 model A's.
I wouldn't leave Kroil on the bluing for any length of time, but I would stand the barrel - muzzle down- and spray down the inside. let it run from chamber to choke tube. leave it over night and it will come right out.
Kano Labs makes the Kroil and claim it penetrates spaces as small as 1 millionth of an inch and disolves iron oxide (aka rust) chrystals.
I discovered that magic stuff years ago and can't imagine life without it. got the manifold bolts out and everything else loosened up on a "pastured" model T and helped with resoration of 2 model A's.
I wouldn't leave Kroil on the bluing for any length of time, but I would stand the barrel - muzzle down- and spray down the inside. let it run from chamber to choke tube. leave it over night and it will come right out.
Kano Labs makes the Kroil and claim it penetrates spaces as small as 1 millionth of an inch and disolves iron oxide (aka rust) chrystals.
MCgunner
Member
I'm out of Kroil, but marvel mystery oil is pretty good. I also like external "Winchokes", but have some internal ones, too. I finger tight 'em and never have a problem getting 'em back out with fingers.
The one in my mossy at the moment is a modified choke, aftermarket stainless and internal type. I find myself only using modified. I shoot modified on doves and for ducks and geese it patterns like a lead full with steel or Tungsten Iron out of the modified. So, unless I go on a quail hunt, I don't really need anything, but modified. I still like screw in chokes, though, an improvement over fixed. I wanna get my old double cut to about 24" (from .28) and have Briley tubes installed. It's a fixed choke gun. I can get the barrel into my GoldWing's top box if I cut it down. Also, I don't use the gun much anymore and with more open chokes it'd be a lot more useful on upland stuff than with the 28" mod/full it's got now. I would stick a pair of improved choke tubes in it for home defense. I also wanna get the barrels reblued and baby it a little after years of abusing it. It's still a good shooter, just lookin' a little beat up.
The one in my mossy at the moment is a modified choke, aftermarket stainless and internal type. I find myself only using modified. I shoot modified on doves and for ducks and geese it patterns like a lead full with steel or Tungsten Iron out of the modified. So, unless I go on a quail hunt, I don't really need anything, but modified. I still like screw in chokes, though, an improvement over fixed. I wanna get my old double cut to about 24" (from .28) and have Briley tubes installed. It's a fixed choke gun. I can get the barrel into my GoldWing's top box if I cut it down. Also, I don't use the gun much anymore and with more open chokes it'd be a lot more useful on upland stuff than with the 28" mod/full it's got now. I would stick a pair of improved choke tubes in it for home defense. I also wanna get the barrels reblued and baby it a little after years of abusing it. It's still a good shooter, just lookin' a little beat up.
Thanks
The first time I shot a shotgun, someone taught me to put something like Rem Oil on the threads and only keep it tight when using the gun -- "so I can get the choke out again without damaging the barrel". When I'm leaving the range or the field, I'll back the choke out 1/4 turn or so.
Now I know why!
Good luck with it.
The first time I shot a shotgun, someone taught me to put something like Rem Oil on the threads and only keep it tight when using the gun -- "so I can get the choke out again without damaging the barrel". When I'm leaving the range or the field, I'll back the choke out 1/4 turn or so.
Now I know why!
Good luck with it.
redneck2
Member
I sell industrial lubricants/solvents
On the public market, Kroil is hands down the best, with PB Blaster a 2nd
Anti-seize should work fine. It is actually lead, aluminum, and oil mixed.
Any really good grease should also work. I get silicone faucet grease in the little tubes in the plumbing section of the hardware store for my muzzle loader. Even works with BP. Lithium and most wheel bearing grease is crap. Bentone (no-melt) is worse.
Make sure your chokes are snug but not over tightened. If they're left loose, the threads will slam and distort when the load goes thru the choke restriction.
On the public market, Kroil is hands down the best, with PB Blaster a 2nd
Anti-seize should work fine. It is actually lead, aluminum, and oil mixed.
Any really good grease should also work. I get silicone faucet grease in the little tubes in the plumbing section of the hardware store for my muzzle loader. Even works with BP. Lithium and most wheel bearing grease is crap. Bentone (no-melt) is worse.
Make sure your chokes are snug but not over tightened. If they're left loose, the threads will slam and distort when the load goes thru the choke restriction.
BTW, if it's not rusted, just really tight, drop some oil around it and shoot a bunch of rounds through it fast to heat up the barrel. The barrel expands slightly when it heats up. If you tighten the choke hard in a hot barrel, then let the barrel cool, the choke can get tighter.
Dave McCracken
Moderator In Memoriam
I've had one or two time when I had to muscle a tube. One was very resistant until I stuck it in the freezer.
Loosening and tightening the tube each time one shoots is a very good idea.
I've been using SLIP 2000 and CLP to lube the threads. Anti sieze compound sounds better. Will advise....
Loosening and tightening the tube each time one shoots is a very good idea.
I've been using SLIP 2000 and CLP to lube the threads. Anti sieze compound sounds better. Will advise....
Fred Fuller
Moderator Emeritus
Choke tube lubes-
http://www.colonialarms.com/misc.html
http://www.briley.com/cgi-local/PowerShopper.cgi/Preview/Shopping-2.html?B+Dispatcher++CatReq=20:0:1
http://www.choketube.com/accessories.html
http://www.mackspw.com/item.asp?im=BIR40015&d=Birchwood_.75_Ounce_Casey_Choke_Tube_Lube
https://shop2.mailordercentral.com/bpicart/prodinfo.asp?number=1640028
========================================
The folks at Colonial have always suggested the use of a particulate- containing choke tube lube to help support the choke tube threads in the barrel. Here's their writeup on their store brand:
CHOKE TUBE LUBE
Colonial Choke Tube Lube contains extremely fine particles of metal, graphite and other additives known to enhance antiseize performance. The solid additives provide excellent protection against seizure, especially when high heat (up to 1800°F) and/or extreme pressure (to 32,000 psi) are problems. The very high quality lubricant in this product is especially formulated and is extremely pure.
11-CTLUB $ 5.95
I've always used it since I got started experimenting with choke tubes more than 10 years ago and never had a problem with a stuck or damaged or blown-out tube... so far 8^).
lpl/nc
http://www.colonialarms.com/misc.html
http://www.briley.com/cgi-local/PowerShopper.cgi/Preview/Shopping-2.html?B+Dispatcher++CatReq=20:0:1
http://www.choketube.com/accessories.html
http://www.mackspw.com/item.asp?im=BIR40015&d=Birchwood_.75_Ounce_Casey_Choke_Tube_Lube
https://shop2.mailordercentral.com/bpicart/prodinfo.asp?number=1640028
========================================
The folks at Colonial have always suggested the use of a particulate- containing choke tube lube to help support the choke tube threads in the barrel. Here's their writeup on their store brand:
CHOKE TUBE LUBE
Colonial Choke Tube Lube contains extremely fine particles of metal, graphite and other additives known to enhance antiseize performance. The solid additives provide excellent protection against seizure, especially when high heat (up to 1800°F) and/or extreme pressure (to 32,000 psi) are problems. The very high quality lubricant in this product is especially formulated and is extremely pure.
11-CTLUB $ 5.95
I've always used it since I got started experimenting with choke tubes more than 10 years ago and never had a problem with a stuck or damaged or blown-out tube... so far 8^).
lpl/nc
Rigby470
Member
Thanks for all the great info guys! I had another guy recommend Kroil to me. Good to know it will not hurt the blueing. I'm gonna get some and try it in the next couple of days.
Also, does anyone know where I can get a choke tube wrench like HSMITH recommended? I've been looking for one and cannot seem to find any.
Also, does anyone know where I can get a choke tube wrench like HSMITH recommended? I've been looking for one and cannot seem to find any.
TrapperReady
Member
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2003
- Messages
- 2,732
I always used the Birchwood-Casey Choke-Tube Lube, until I became a choke-tube changer on the sporting clays course. I use Ballistic Specialties extended tubes in my 425, and even so, it was slow-going when making changes. I finally just cleaned the tubes and the barrel threads completely with Hoppes and didn't put anything back on them. Now, they spin in and out quickly -- however, I do make sure to clean them more often and back them out a bit before I put them away.
They do loosen a little faster on their own, but it still takes more than 10 or 12 shots before they do so. As long as I check them before I step in the box (which I do anyway), then it's not a problem.
Husker1911
Member
Kroil is your friend. As for the better choke tube wrench, check with Brownell's. Good luck!
Rem Oil might improve that slightly, because it's extremely thin and keeps fouling liquid-soft. When I change choke tubes, I can wipe off the dirty one and it comes almost completely clean, if it was oiled with Rem Oil. Chokes don't seize, either. I don't like grease; it slows things down and makes it nearly impossible to get the threads clean once the choke's been in and out of the gun.
I like Rem Oil as a field oil; with a rag, it helps clean a dirty gun rather than gumming it up worse.
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