I have 629-1 that I purchased a few years back, unfired in the box. I have shot it only in double action up until today. When trying to fire in single action, I begin to put a slight amount of pressure on the trigger and the trigger comes forward and the hammer falls, but not with enough force to fire the round. It also makes a different noise. The only way I have found around this is to slap the trigger a bit. I tried to get some of my other N frame Smiths (.357s and a .41) to have the same malfunction, and I was unable to get the same malfunction. I made sure the side plate screws and strain screw were all tight. Is this a problem with me or the revolver?
S&W 629-1 single action trigger problem
- Thread starter Rio Laxas
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rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Take the stocks off and see if you can tighten the strain screw in the front of the grip frame. It should be tightened fully tight.
Some folks think this is a trigger pull adjustment screw.
It most certainly is not.
If it is backed off, the hammer stirrup can get in the way of hammer and cause all sorts of strange weird problems.
Other then that, I can't think of much else that would cause your problem if the gun works otherwise.
EDIT: Oops! I see you already did that.
O.K., take the strain screw out of one of your other N-Frame guns and try it in the Model 29. Maybe somebody ground the end off the strain screw to make the DA pull lighter?
rc
Some folks think this is a trigger pull adjustment screw.
It most certainly is not.
If it is backed off, the hammer stirrup can get in the way of hammer and cause all sorts of strange weird problems.
Other then that, I can't think of much else that would cause your problem if the gun works otherwise.
EDIT: Oops! I see you already did that.
O.K., take the strain screw out of one of your other N-Frame guns and try it in the Model 29. Maybe somebody ground the end off the strain screw to make the DA pull lighter?
rc
Sounds like the hammer is hitting the trigger on SA release. Some one has either been parts swapping or kitchen table smithing on the trigger pull. (or it could be a factory screw up) Kuhnhausen covers this in his book on S&W revolvers. In SA if the trigger is pulled fully and quickly enough to the rear it will probably fire, right? I had one that did this and ended up installing a new hammer and trigger to fix it.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Stoning the hammer or trigger on an older S&W (pre-MIM parts) is not recommended.
Those parts are case hardened steel, and the case hardening is only a frog-hair thick.
Once you stone it, the case hardened surface is gone, and you have soft steel surfaces wearing each other out in a short time.
Perhaps that is the problem now.
If in fact the sear & hammer surfaces have been screwed with, new parts are your only recourse now.
rc
Those parts are case hardened steel, and the case hardening is only a frog-hair thick.
Once you stone it, the case hardened surface is gone, and you have soft steel surfaces wearing each other out in a short time.
Perhaps that is the problem now.
If in fact the sear & hammer surfaces have been screwed with, new parts are your only recourse now.
rc
I did try switching out the strain screws with some of my other N frames. Interestingly, the strains screw on my 629 and 657 are shorter than those on the 357s. My 629 has a chromed trigger and hammer. I am not daring enough to stone the hammer or trigger myself anyway, but stoning those should not be a problem, right?
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Ok, I found some more info on hammer push off and I tested all of my revolvers for it by pushing the hammer forward with my finger off the trigger. The only two that failed (the hammer fell without the trigger being engaged) are the 657 (no dash) and the 629-1, which were both made around the same time. The 657 is used, but the 629-1 was sold to me by a dealer as new, unfired, in the box. He could have been lying, but it did appear that way to me. Was this a particular problem with this generation of stainless N frames?
S&W hammer hooks are extremely shallow. Chrome plating builds up thicker in some areas than others. Stoning the hammer hook may clean off some of the chrome flashing that may be taking up precious space in the hammer hook. This will allow the sear to sit deeper in the hammer hook and should eliminate your problem.
rmfnla
Member
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2007
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- 704
Push off is usually the result of some some wannabe stoning the hammer, trigger or both.
Your gun needs professional attention.
Agreed. Push off is not the same as the hammer hitting the trigger on release but both can be caused by incorrect fitting of the hammer or trigger or stoning the trigger too much or just dropping in parts from another gun without understanding how to fit them correctly.
Hmm, the 629-1 was supposed to be new in the box (from an FFL), & while the 657 was used, it sure didn't look like it had much wear or had been messed with. Makes me wonder if I just got unlucky on these....It just seems awfully coincidental to me that out of the 7 N frames that I own, the two with this problem are stainless N frames from around the same manufacturing time.
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I strongly suggest you NOT do any stoning on ANY S&W hammer. Period. No matter what anyone says. If there is a not a competent gunsmith in your area, call S&W and see what they say. It is possible that they had a QC problem but IMHO it is more likely that the "new" gun wasn't new and that someone messed with it, then passed on the problem he created.
Jim
Jim
Sir Aardvark
Member
Have you tried thoroughly cleaning it?
My brother's 629 had hammer push-off and it was because there was crud under the single-action engagement sear.
A very thorough cleaning took care of it.
You might try taking off the sideplate and looking at it before you send it to a smith.
My brother's 629 had hammer push-off and it was because there was crud under the single-action engagement sear.
A very thorough cleaning took care of it.
You might try taking off the sideplate and looking at it before you send it to a smith.
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
I ran into the same situation once on a Model 57. Turned out the sideplate was warped. I was able to straighten it, and resolved the problem. Check to see if there is evidence of the plate being pried off. If it's there, that could be where the bug nests.
almostfree:
I can think of a number of reasons that might be causing your problems, but to come to any conclusion I'd need to actually have the gun, and that isn't a practical option.
It appears to me that fixing it (them) yourself is over your head, and trying could make things worse. Some local 'smiths aren't much better then you are when it comes to revolvers.
I suggest that you try a simple test, that won't get you into any trouble.
After checking to be sure the revolver is unloaded, cock the hammer and hold it fully backwards with your thumb. Then pull the trigger and see if you feel anything unusual.
If not, while holding the trigger all of the way back, slowly lower the hammer all of the way down while controling it with your thumb. Then take your thumb off the hammer. Again see if you feel anything unusual. If not release the trigger and let it move forward while you again feel for anything that isn't expected.
You will either (1) detect something, or (2) detect nothing. But in either case if you don't (or even do) come to a conclusion, I would return both revolvers - one at a time - to S&W and let them fix them. If the problem(s) are related to something they did or didn't do when the guns were manufactured they will fix them on their dime, including shipping going both ways. While they are at it they will fix anything else that needs fixing - and they have both the special tooling and expertise to insure it's done right - not just done.
I can think of a number of reasons that might be causing your problems, but to come to any conclusion I'd need to actually have the gun, and that isn't a practical option.
It appears to me that fixing it (them) yourself is over your head, and trying could make things worse. Some local 'smiths aren't much better then you are when it comes to revolvers.
I suggest that you try a simple test, that won't get you into any trouble.
After checking to be sure the revolver is unloaded, cock the hammer and hold it fully backwards with your thumb. Then pull the trigger and see if you feel anything unusual.
If not, while holding the trigger all of the way back, slowly lower the hammer all of the way down while controling it with your thumb. Then take your thumb off the hammer. Again see if you feel anything unusual. If not release the trigger and let it move forward while you again feel for anything that isn't expected.
You will either (1) detect something, or (2) detect nothing. But in either case if you don't (or even do) come to a conclusion, I would return both revolvers - one at a time - to S&W and let them fix them. If the problem(s) are related to something they did or didn't do when the guns were manufactured they will fix them on their dime, including shipping going both ways. While they are at it they will fix anything else that needs fixing - and they have both the special tooling and expertise to insure it's done right - not just done.
jpdavis423
Member
Hammer "push off"
Look here about 1/2 way down the first page:
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/94072-faqs.html.
I followed this procedure on a 15-3 and it worked perfectly.
Jeff
Look here about 1/2 way down the first page:
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/94072-faqs.html.
I followed this procedure on a 15-3 and it worked perfectly.
Jeff
Well I try to use language that the person on the other end of it will understand...
All my little test might do is confirm that something on the inside is obviously out of wack or not.
As for the fix-it options:
Do it yourself; but unless you really know what you are doing (as opposed to thinking you know because you got some advise off some guy on the Internet) there is a good chance you can monkey something up badly. Unfortunately “homework” may void any chance you might have of getting free warrantee work done by the manufacturer, and parts for these older guns don’t always grow on trees…
Take it to a local ‘smith; but local ‘smiths are often good at some things, and not necessarily others. It is highly doubtful you’ll find someone who is qualified to work on anything and everything, and has the necessary jigs, fixtures, gauges and tools to fix them all.
Which brings us to the manufacturer. They don’t claim to be able to fix everyone’s products, just their own. And they have individuals who are qualified to fix these products and are fully equipped to do the job. Last but not least, they might do the work under warrantee and not charge the gun owner a dime – something that isn’t likely to be the case with the local gunfixer.
There ya’ see… you’ve made me write another long post. It would probably be better to simply tell people to do what I said because I SAID IT!!!
But I think there might be a few readers that prefer that I do what I do…
Old Fuff, thanks for the advice. I tried the tests as compared to a few other Smiths and did not detect anything. I also removed the side plate (using instructions on this site from 1911Tuner). I compared that visually to other Smiths and it looked about the same.
You know stoning the hammer and trigger looks pretty easy (I found a pretty good set of instructions), but I am faced with the fact that if it doesn't work (likely because someone has already messed with the internals), then I don't have the experience to proceed from there. So I guess I would run the risk of taking something that could possibly be fixed by an experienced gunsmith and making it so that it couldn't.
Does anyone know anything about Mueschke Mfg in Houston? They claim to specialize in Smith & Wessons. Briley is also here in town.
You know stoning the hammer and trigger looks pretty easy (I found a pretty good set of instructions), but I am faced with the fact that if it doesn't work (likely because someone has already messed with the internals), then I don't have the experience to proceed from there. So I guess I would run the risk of taking something that could possibly be fixed by an experienced gunsmith and making it so that it couldn't.
Does anyone know anything about Mueschke Mfg in Houston? They claim to specialize in Smith & Wessons. Briley is also here in town.
Besides the obvious, a larger problem is that S&W no longer has pre-MIM hammers and triggers for older N-frame models. With some substantial rebuilding newer MIM triggers will work, but not hammers.
Sometimes used hammers and triggers are available from various sources, but they won't necessarily fit in another gun. They are also costly when you do find them.
If someone has stoned far enough to cut through the case hardened surface, or changed the angle on the hammer notch, the part is ruined.
My point is that you want to be VERY CAREFUL who let work on these two revolvers.
Sometimes used hammers and triggers are available from various sources, but they won't necessarily fit in another gun. They are also costly when you do find them.
If someone has stoned far enough to cut through the case hardened surface, or changed the angle on the hammer notch, the part is ruined.
My point is that you want to be VERY CAREFUL who let work on these two revolvers.
triggerman770
Member
629-1
"You know stoning the hammer and trigger looks pretty easy"
obviously someone else thought so too. but those folks keep me pretty busy
if it is new SEND it to Smith, After you call and get a pick up authorization
"You know stoning the hammer and trigger looks pretty easy"
obviously someone else thought so too. but those folks keep me pretty busy
if it is new SEND it to Smith, After you call and get a pick up authorization
rmfnla
Member
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2007
- Messages
- 704
Well I try to use language that the person on the other end of it will understand...
All my little test might do is confirm that something on the inside is obviously out of wack or not.
There ya’ see… you’ve made me write another long post. It would probably be better to simply tell people to do what I said because I SAID IT!!!
But I think there might be a few readers that prefer that I do what I do…
I know; I'm just funnin' ya!
And yes, we do prefer that you do what you do!
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