S&W 686-6 VS Ruger GP100

You gotta hold each in your hand and see which points better and lines up with your eyes more naturally.

I like the 686 design and trigger, but the sights sit too high above the grip for me. I'm not opposed to 686, but for me it's GP100 all the way. Not because they're cheaper or superior in any way; they just fit me better.
 
seems every time I buy a gun bad luck happens and have to sell .
In this case, the S&W all day, every day. Not only is it cheaper to start with(and all of us are....why, even if it is just a dollar?), but resale value of S&Ws is always higher than comparable Rugers. So for you, as a expected short term investment, this is a no-brainer. Why your Pawn Shop is so proud of the Ruger is beyond me, unless there is something wrong with the Smith. On top of that, adjustable sights will always be preferable, unless it is going to be an everyday carry, and neither of these are regular EDCs(even with the Ruger being 3"). In most scenarios, in a medium frame .357 revolver, a 4" barrel is also going to be more preferable.

JMTCs, for what it's worth.
 
Three things would decide it, for me. Condition. Condition. Condition.

S&W and Ruger have, both, been through periods of poor production standards. I simply would not consider either, unless I could personally inspect it. When I was still buying Rugers, I could start by looking at the first three digits of the serial number, to help me decide whether to even bother asking to inspect the weapon. By now, I would have to look on-line, at a table showing production years, by serial number. (I stopped buying double-action Rugers when I had accumulated enough of them, coupled with a reduction in income, due to retirement.)

S&W revolvers? There are good discussion threads on this matter, pinned to the top, on several on-line forums.

Even if I just wanted a collector piece, I want it to be a good value. A flawed revolver is a bad value. Paying for a gun to be made right is not a good value. Even if customer service “takes care of me,” I am still out some amount of my personal time. My time is valuable.

To be clear, I am relatively brand-neutral, regarding S&W and Ruger revolving pistols. I have carried both into harm’s way, while LEO-ing. I have carried both for personal-time defense, and still do, in retirement. I was all set to begin a diligent, nostalgia-driven search for a couple of good S&W L-Frames, when age caught up with my index fingers, causing me to suspend most long-stroke double-action shooting and dry fire, earlier this year. (I still like S&W revolving pistols, but, have shifted my attention to post-WW2 models with more-cock-able “transition” hammers.)
 
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Have a 4in GP100 and 6in 686+.

For me, while the 686 is more refined, I just prefer the mechanism of the GP100----no intention of selling either so I don't know

Paid full price for the GP100 and changed the grips to the old style with the wood inlay --and changed the front sight to a green fiber optic basically bringing the price to what I paid for the 686----but the 686 was purchased 6 years later for a pretty good deal.
 
I have always been a S&W fan. I have a Ruger SP-101, and it has been flawless, albeit a bit "clunky". From everyone I know and everything I've read, the GP's are a nicer revolver than the SP's. I have never seen a used GP in my neck of the woods. I would have expected the Smith to be a couple hundred higher than the Ruger. Inspect them both carefully.
 
686 hands down for me. I like the GP100s, but they are a single-action only proposition, at least from the factory.

I also don't like 3" 357s in general. The ballistic increase vs a 3" 38 Spl definitely justifies itself, but the noise and recoil are obnoxious. 4" is as short as I care to go for 357s. 5" is perfect.
 
One of the top firearms community Ford vs Chevy arguments.
Here are some more:
45acp vs 9mm
AR vs AK
Revolver vs Semi-auto
30-06 vs every other caliber
Mossberg 500 vs Remington 870

Did I leave out any?
 
Check the closure of the 686 yoke to the frame very carefully.

If it looks like this, do not buy it. There should be an almost invisible hairline where the yoke closes against the frame.

I bought this 686-6 back in 2015.

NjJG1H.jpg





The only way I could get it to print where the sight picture was I had to crank the rear sight all the way to the right, like this. (Yes, I know how to shoot a revolver, have been doing so for over 50 years.)

ZFjtPX.jpg





It turns out the barrel is torqued slightly too much and does not allow the yoke to close all the way.


If the joint closing the yoke to the frame looks like my first photo, do not buy it.
 
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If you don't mind working on it, you can make a GP100 trigger very nice. But the standard models don't come from the factory with nice triggers, at least not in my experience.
 
The M686 dash five went to frame mounted firing pin, and the dash 6 has the lock.

Make mine a hammer mounted firing pin.

GKPvF84.jpeg


But if I could not find one, I would still go with the S&W, primarily for the trigger.
 
The M686 dash five went to frame mounted firing pin, and the dash 6 has the lock
The -5 is my favorite variant. My 686-6 held up great as my primary match gun for over 75k rounds, but I snapped up a -5 and relegated the -6 to backup duty. The Lock didn’t affect function, but if it’s not needed, why have it and risk a malfunction, even if that risk is small?*

*we used the same logic to remove the hammer block on tuned and spurless match guns until IDPA HQ found out and quickly ruled that as an illegal modification. 😉
 
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