S&W Alloy Frames??....

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GZOh

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Looking for some owner-feedback on the S&W 'AirLite' alloy frame revolvers.
Been trying to buy a S&W .38 snub and have seen several alloy S&Ws at the local gun shops.
Wondering what the pros-cons are vs. the traditional all steel pistols.
Thanks
 
Alloy Smiths

Cuts down on the weight with no bad results other than recoil in some frames.
Example: A N Frame in 357 Mag Alloy 2 inch barrel - Very Little Recoil
A J Frame in 357 Mag Alloy 2 inch barrel - A Bunch of Recoil
 
The model I've been seeing in stock is the 637, which is a 2" .38 special, which I believe is a J-frame.
NIB they're a bit cheaper than the all-steel model-60 (though tougher to get)...
Would prefer a nice used 36 Chief Special... been looking on GB and Forums... considering the alloys if nothing reasonable shows up.
 
If it's for pocket carry I might get the airweight, but if it's for belt carry defiantly get the steel frame. I have a 642 that I love, but if I had to do it over again I would look for a steel J-frame. You really need to practice with a j-frame and that extra 5oz goes a long way when shooting.
 
The older J frame .38's would sometimes break the top rib of the frame using +P ammo. Newer ones have beefed up that area. Also, using +P ammo can cause bullets to unseat, preventing the cylinder from rotating. I love them anyway and just don't run +P in them.
They hide better than you would think.
 
Convenient size, excessively light for my needs. The recoil is painful and discourages effective practice. I use steel guns. The few more ounces more they weigh makes a big improvement in their handling. Mr Newtons laws still apply.
 
I suspect you see a lot more of them in the 'pre-owned' listings because of the heightened recoil. The issue is that you should be practicing with what you carry. And practicing with an Air-Weight provides no joy for me and many others. So unless you've got meaty hands and wrists you have the option of owning an all-steel model for practice and an allow model for carrying (with otherwise identical characteristics). The recoil won't matter much when there is adrenalin flowing.
But if neither of these cases are true, just go with steel.
B
 
The model I've been seeing in stock is the 637, which is a 2" .38 special, which I believe is a J-frame.
NIB they're a bit cheaper than the all-steel model-60 (though tougher to get)...
Would prefer a nice used 36 Chief Special... been looking on GB and Forums... considering the alloys if nothing reasonable shows up.
The 637 is an Airweight, not an Airlite. The difference is that the majority of the Airweight guns (637, 642, 442, etc) have aluminum frames and steel cylinders and weigh around 15oz while the Airlite guns (337, 342) have scandium/aluminum alloy frames and titanium cylinders and weigh 10-11oz. Of course, S&W being S&W, there are always a few exceptions, but the 637 you're looking at would be an aluminum frame/stainless steel cylinder, 5 shot, .38spl, J frame, a lightweight (15oz) version of the old M36 Chief's Special. They are among the most popular carry guns ever made, S&W has made about a bazillion of them. I'm not aware of any downside when compared to the steel framed version, aside from a bit more felt recoil.
 
While the lighter weight makes an alloy frame easier to carry, I would only get a steel frame model to help with recoil.
 
"...excessively light for my needs. The recoil is painful and discourages effective practice. "

I agree with Dframe. Practice with a 36 Chief is great fun. Practice with an alloy J Frame is work. Lots of fun practice = proficiency.
 
With standard velocity .38 special rounds, an alloy J-Frame is not at all unpleasant to practice with. With +p they can be a handful. But they are not designed as a range gun, nor as they designed to be a competition gun. They are no more unpleasant to shoot than steel .357 J-Frames with .357 ammo. They are intended to be a small, lightweight, easy to carry all day, reliable SD gun that is carried often and shot little.....and they do that very well. Practicing with standard .38 rounds can make one very proficient. My 637 prints the same with both my .38 sp practice ammo and my .38+p carry ammo. That said, I would not feel under-gunned with standard .38 ammo.
 
I have 3 airweights (38 Spl). A pre Model 37 (1956), a Model 37-2 (1997), and a 637-2 (2010). They are all in my carry cycle depending on where I’m going and what I’m wearing. I never shoot +P ammo and, quite frankly, I don’t really notice any significant difference in recoil between them and any of my Model 36’s. All have been 100% reliable.
 
Looking for some owner-feedback on the S&W 'AirLite' alloy frame revolvers.
Been trying to buy a S&W .38 snub and have seen several alloy S&Ws at the local gun shops.
Wondering what the pros-cons are vs. the traditional all steel pistols.
Thanks
You have a contradiction there. The S&W Airweight is a .38 Special and the S&W Airlite is a .357 Magnum, which one are you asking about?

I have owned a few Airweight J frames in .38 Special and all did what they should. I'm currently carrying a M442 for the past 6 years I think and it gets shot a lot. That revolver is as tight today and when I brought it home but for the trigger which is much smoother from use. I usually shoot a box (50) of standard pressure 158gr SWC rounds and finish up the practice with 10 to 15 rounds of my .38 Special +P carry load. That is done weekly for at least 9 month of the year weather permitting. No ill effects on the revolver.
 
You have a contradiction there. The S&W Airweight is a .38 Special and the S&W Airlite is a .357 Magnum, which one are you asking about?

I have six AirLite S&W's only one is a .357 (386PD). Two are .38's, the 7 round, L frame 242 & the J frame 342. One is in .45 ACP the 325PD and the last two are J frames the 317 and 351PD in 22 lr and 22 mag respectively. I also have two Airweights both .38s (642 & a K frame 2" Model 12).

I carry the 342 24/7 (sleep with it under a pillow and it sits beside the tub when I bathe) but I use the 642 as a range understudy because cleaning the SS cylinder is less worrying.

My advice, if it's for carry, buy a 642 and don't look back.

JAC
 
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Thanks for all the help and great info guys, much appreciated...
And thanks for clarifying 'Airweight' and 'Airlite'.
Deep down I guess I'm a 'All Steel' guy so the 36 Chief Special is still my first choice...
Will still try to get one used at a 'reasonable' price (GB, Forums, etc)...
If not, the 637 Airweight seems to be available NIB and at a decent price (about $400)...
Again, thanks for the help!

BTW: Saw a 637 'Performance Center' model... beautiful wood grips, etc... but what other differences are there between it and the standard 637 (about $70 difference)?

.
 
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I have both an all steel Model 649 and an aluminum framed Model 638. The 649 is easier to control and has less felt recoil with +P loads while the 638 is great to carry for long periods of time. So typically I carry the 649 when the weather is colder and I'm already weighed down with multiple layers of clothing anyways. The 638 makes for a better choice when its lighter weight makes it more versatile for concealed carry while wearing less in the warmer months.
 
With standard velocity .38 special rounds, an alloy J-Frame is not at all unpleasant to practice with. With +p they can be a handful. But they are not designed as a range gun, nor as they designed to be a competition gun. They are no more unpleasant to shoot than steel .357 J-Frames with .357 ammo. They are intended to be a small, lightweight, easy to carry all day, reliable SD gun that is carried often and shot little.....and they do that very well. Practicing with standard .38 rounds can make one very proficient. My 637 prints the same with both my .38 sp practice ammo and my .38+p carry ammo. That said, I would not feel under-gunned with standard .38 ammo.
I was reading through the posts and forming my reply, but after reading this response I felt I couldn't have worded it any better.
 
Oh come on guys, you know darn well the OP was talking about the J frame and not a K/L frame S&W revolver. And as for the .22, he specifically stated in his first post "Been trying to buy a S&W .38 snub and have seen several alloy S&Ws at the local gun shops" so why would I address a .22?

Do you just like to prove people wrong or like to hear yourself talk"? I was trying to find out what exactly the OP was asking about so I can try to answer the question correctly, not prove him wrong. (unlike what seems to have happened after that by others) :rolleyes:
 
Thanks for all the help and great info guys, much appreciated...
And thanks for clarifying 'Airweight' and 'Airlite'.
Deep down I guess I'm a 'All Steel' guy so the 36 Chief Special is still my first choice...
Will still try to get one used at a 'reasonable' price (GB, Forums, etc)...
If not, the 637 Airweight seems to be available NIB and at a decent price (about $400)...
Again, thanks for the help!

BTW: Saw a 637 'Performance Center' model... beautiful wood grips, etc... but what other differences are there between it and the standard 637 (about $70 difference)?

.
There is nothing at all wrong with an all steel J frame if you are going to belt carry or some other form of carry other than pocket carry. Even though the M36 is only a few ounces heavier than the M637 it just doesn't feel right in my pocket. Of course you may feel differently and the slight extra weight might not bother you at all. I truly wish it didn't bother me because I have a really nice M36 I would like to pocket carry daily.

M36-1.jpg

M36-2.jpg
 
Having owned several (or more) of each, I agree with most of the previous posters.

The alloy j-frame (637, 338, 642, etc.) at 15 oz. is a great pocket carry.

The steel version is somewhat more fun to practice with, but at 23 oz., it loses all of it's charm for me. At that weight it is IWB, and why would I carry a 23 oz, 5-rd .38 Spl when I can carry a 24 oz, 7+1 .45acp?

YMMV.
 
One shop I visited had an NIB 637 for $395...
Checked with Buds for pricing and he has them at $400 standard and $450 for the Performance model...
Just wondering if 'Performance' had any 'internal' mods/upgrades (trigger, hammer, springs, etc.)... or if its just the wood grips.
Maybe I'll just call S&W tomorrow and ask.
Appreciate the input.

Nice 'snubbie' ArchAngel!

.
 
While looking for a 642, I lucked into a late '60s M37 at a decent price. It looked like it had lived its life in its box and probably hadn't fired 50 rounds. I shoot and carry standard velocity wadcutters. The recoil isn't too bad while the accuracy is fairly good. I agree, that it's a gun you need to practice with.

For pocket carry it's ideal. I wouldn't mind getting a second one. But for all that I'm now looking for a 36 for range use and practice. I feel extensive range practice with an aluminum frame gun carries a risk of frame damage that wouldn't exist for an all steel gun.

I'd hate to hurt my little puppy; it's pretty sweet.
 
I've never owned an airweight but have several Colt Cobras and with full power loads they can be a challenge to shoot well, even with their more ergonomically friendly stocks.
 
I carry a 637 inside the waistband. While up walking around it is easy to forget it is there. I put Houge grips on mine. At the range it is a little snappy but not at all too bad with any kind of target ammo. With some of the hotter "self defense" rounds will start to sting after a few cylinders. If you plan on carrying it in any fashion, I would recommend am alloy frame. I would put shooting comfort second to a having a lighter weight. Its a snub. Not really gonna be a dedicated range gun, is it?
 
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