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S&W K-frame trigger adjustments

Discussion in 'Handguns: Revolvers' started by evan price, Apr 4, 2010.

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  1. evan price

    evan price Member

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    Is there any way to adjust or reduce the trigger overtravel in a K-frame S&W?
    I've got a very nice M66 which when fired single action, breaks like glass but after breaking the trigger moves back another 1/16th an inch or so. It's not really a bad thing, but none of my other Smiths do this. The carryup is fine, locks up tight, no endshake or anything else wrong with it.
    Since there's no adjustments obvious, I assume it'd be smith work, right?
     
  2. ChristopherG

    ChristopherG Member

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    Right. If you look at Performance Center models you'll see a set screw in the trigger; it is adjusted to mechanically stop overtravel. You could have such a set screw installed or attempt to jerry-rig something yourself by sticking something in the guard behind the trigger to stop it at the right point. In a carry gun, I wouldn't do either.
     
  3. dfariswheel

    dfariswheel Member

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    If you have that much over-travel in a Model 66, something is wrong.

    One option is to buy a S&W trigger stop and screw.
    Look behind the trigger at the frame where the trigger enters. If there's a narrow slot in the frame, the gun is set up for a S&W trigger stop.

    You'd need to disassemble the gun and install the stop and it's screw inside the frame.
    These may not be a good idea on a defense gun since if it shifts, it may prevent the gun from firing.

    My opinion, there may be something wrong internally if the trigger is moving that much after the trigger breaks.
     
  4. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

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    That much SA trigger over-travel is perfectly normal in a K-Frame without a trigger stop.

    At one time S&W put a small steel rod inside the rebound slide spring that was cut to exactly the right length to limit over-travel. They stopped using them on all grades of combat & target guns.
    Reports of lawmen having problems with the gun not working because a small spec of dirt or grit got between the rod & the recoil slide pin that would not allow the trigger to release the hammer.

    I would still prefer that to drilling & tapping the trigger on a perfectly good & unaltered Model 66 for a set-screw!

    It would take some trial & error to cut a small drill bit shank exactly the right length, but that is the way I would do it, if I was going to do it at all.

    A better plan is to just learn to live with it.

    rc
     
  5. evan price

    evan price Member

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    Kudos dfariswheel, I took it back apart again and saw I had overlooked a tiny screw under the sideplate that attaches to a lozenge of thin metal that protrudes behind the trigger in the described slot. By adjusting the angle of this metal piece you can get more or less overtravel. This gun's was flush, too far back. My other M66 it stuck out a bit and the trigger was perfect. A half hour of fiddling and it was back together with the same trigger travel as the other M66. Thanks!
     
  6. Old Fuff

    Old Fuff Member

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    Keep in mind that on service revolvers (as opposed to target models) S&W intentionally didn't set the trigger stop because in some instances it was able to self-adjust and prevent a cocked gun from firing. I don't know what you use your model 66 for, but maybe you should remember this..
     
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