S&W Mod66 question

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silverking

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Yesterday, on another forum, I learned of a problem regarding the mod 66. They called it "push off", whereas one can quite easily push the hammer forward after cocking. I took my 66 no dash in hand and found this to be true with mine as well. Does anyone here know of a simple fix or should I consider sending it to S&W for "reluctant" repair?
Thanks for your input.
 
The problem isn't specific to the model 66. However, it is specific to morons with dremel tools. :( It is likely that someone polished the ridge on the SA sear or hammer engagement surface (or both) a bit too much and either screwed up the proper engagement angle between the two parts or they polished right through the thin heat treated layer and exposed the softer metal underneath, causing accelerated wear. Either will result in a hammer that no longer stays cocked reliably.

Either the trigger, the hammer or both will likely need to be replaced and hand fitting those parts together is often required. So I'd contact S&W and see about sending it to them, or locate a reputable gunsmith in your area with S&W experience. ALL the internals probably need a good, careful inspection.
 
I concur with the above post. Checking for "push-off" is a legitimate function test for any revolver except for those made as, or purposely converted to, double action only.
 
Food for thought. What if Mr. Silverking bought his Smith 66 new and never altered the firing mechanism? Is this possible on an unaltered revolver. Going downstairs to get my Smiths out of the safe to check them for this fault. None of mine have been altered.
 
"it is specific to morons with dremel tools"
good one, jad, I needed a Saturday morning chuckle !

"Is this possible on an unaltered revolver."
yes, but only if faulty, no matter how it got that way; send it back to the factory
if OP just bought a still NIB S&W 66 no dash, he is to be envied all the same
S&W will fix it
 
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Since WWII, S&W revolvers have been made with a 'drop-proof' safety. You can cock the hammer, but without your finger pulling the trigger to move said safety, the hammer mounted fp won't hit the primer should you whack the hammer forward. In frame mounted versions, the hammer won't hit the frame mounted fp. You have to have the trigger pulled back to make it go bang.

Of course, this is theory - I have never tested it!

Stainz

PS I'd still have it fixed - by S&W - you know they will likely have the parts needed!

PPS That 'drop safety' is the bent piece of metal that is so much fun to align properly so you can refit the sideplate. S&W calls it a 'Hammer Block'.
 
The stock, right from the factory, no dash M-66's had problems with "push off". I had quite an argument with a C/S rep. at S&W about replacing the hammer on the one I had. If I remember this was in early 1975.
 
I appreciate the helpful information. The 66 was bought used at a pawn shop and I was so taken with it I failed to give it any kind of function checks other than a good looking over. :banghead::cuss::eek: I mentioned the fact that S&W was reluctant to fix it for the guy who posted on the other forum. Maybe I'll just look for a reliable smith near me to work on it.
 
It wouldn't have been a deal breaker for me as I'd be unlikely to ever shoot it in SA anyway, but I'd have used it to haggle for a lower purchase price.

It you'd like it corrected, the correct way is to have a hammer/trigger replaced and fitted. If you're going to do that anyway, you mind as well have the action tuned at the same time
 
The problem isn't specific to the model 66. However, it is specific to morons with dremel tools. :( It is likely that someone polished the ridge on the SA sear or hammer engagement surface (or both) a bit too much and either screwed up the proper engagement angle between the two parts or they polished right through the thin heat treated layer and exposed the softer metal underneath, causing accelerated wear. Either will result in a hammer that no longer stays cocked reliably.

Either the trigger, the hammer or both will likely need to be replaced and hand fitting those parts together is often required. So I'd contact S&W and see about sending it to them, or locate a reputable gunsmith in your area with S&W experience. ALL the internals probably need a good, careful inspection.
That's great!

Push off can normally be fixed. I have worked on one or two that were so badly mangled that I had to replace the hammers. Finding a good hammer for the older actions is getting harder and harder. Plus they cost a arm and a leg when you do.

Temptation.jpg
 
Its sounds like someone tried to do some home gunsmithing. My 66 does not do that. Do yourself a favor and call S&W and have them send you a box. I am sure they can fix the revolver and who knowns, they might not charge you.
Good luck,
Howard
 
Before doing...

...anything else, check the strain screw on the front of the grip frame. It should be screwed all the way in until it stops. Some nimrods out there will back off the strain screw a few turns, since that will lighten the trigger pull, also.

If it has come loose, put a little dab of blue Loctite on the threads and turn the screw all the way in. It will stay in place, but can still be removed without damage.
 
Since it is used, don't hesitate to send it to a reputable gunsmith. It doesn't have to go back to Smith & Wesson. There are many smiths, who's quality of work is as good if not better than S&W.
 
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