S&W Model 19-3 Texas Ranger

[dwstone1227]

i have a S&W Model 19-3, Texas Ranger. The gun is in excellent condition and is a goo shooter. Today, whole shooting a full load of six rounds, the first round fired normal. However, the hammer failed to return to firing position on the second round. The hammer remained closed and would not retract as I repeatedly pulled the trigger. Now if I pulled back on the hammer back about 1/4 inch, it would reset and fire.

After getting home, I disassembled the gun and did not find any obvious issues under the handgrips. In doing some searching, I am guessing that I need a new main spring. I have one on order from Wolf. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

On a side thought, I used to think revolvers were far more reliable than semiauto pistols. But no matter what I do, my S&W Shield goes bang each and every time. But I still enjoy my revolvers.

 

[Stephanie B]

Rebound spring?

 

[WestKentucky]

Probably rebound spring. Could be crud. Have you pulled the sideplate off and checked for crud?

 

[Jonesy814]

Anything mechanical can break. The Shield is what? Maybe 5 years old? The revolver is 30, maybe 40 years old? Doubting the reliability of revolvers because the semi auto that is 30 years newer always goes bang is faulty reasoning. When the Shield is as old as the revolver and has fired just as many rounds, if nothing has broken, then it would maybe be valid to doubt the reliability of the Revolver.

 

[MrBorland]

Sounds like either it could use a good cleaning, or the rebound spring is too light for the mainspring (or the mainspring is too heavy for the rebound spring). Did someone do a home trigger job on it? They might've put in a very light rebound spring (or cut a few coils off the factory spring) in an effort to get a crazy-light SA trigger. If you have a trigger pull gauge, the DA:SA pull weight ratio should be about 3-3.5. Does the SA trigger pull weight seem feather light? That would indicate a light (or short) rebound spring. If the rebound spring is light (or short), and you want factory reliability, I'd replace that, rather than compensating by putting in a lighter mainspring. The latter would lighten the action, but could get you into reliability issues.

I'm assuming the trigger doesn't fully reset when the hammer fails to. If the trigger is resetting fully, you've got a bigger problem, methinks...

 

[CajunBass]

The first place to start is always a good cleaning. Even a good flush with Gunscrubber and a few drops of oil will take care of most problems.

When the Shield is as old as the revolver and has fired just as many rounds, if nothing has broken, then it would maybe be valid to doubt the reliability of the Revolver.

Even then they'd both be thirty years old. I wouldn't be shocked to have something thirty years old break, I don't care if it's a trailer ball.

And even then all you'd have is a "one on one" comparison. Hardly enough date to base any conclusion on..

 

[dwstone1227]

I have done a very complete cleaning including removing the hammer, sear, recoil springs, etc. It was pretty clean before I even started. This revolver was never modified. All the springs, trigger, etc are factory original. It is a Texas Ranger Model and modifying it is not an option in my opinion.

I called Wolf Springs and discussed the problem. Wolf did not have any springs that would resolve my problem. He referred me on to Brownell’s. I spoke for some time with the Brownell representative. After closing the cylinder, the trigger is set and ready to fire. After pulling got trigger the hammer drops fully. As I release the trigger, the trigger goes fully forward. The trigger cannot be forced any further forward. The hammer however does not reset. If I pull the hammer back about 1/8 inch it does reset with the sear and then it is ready to fire. When have the action open I tried to put more force on the rebound spring. When I did this, nothing happens, it is fully rebound and the metal piece it part of is fully returned.

After all of these calls, it appears this revolver is going to have to go back to Smith and Wesson for repair.

 

[GooseGestapo]

Sounds like someone has already been in it. A modified rebound slide, or hammer “foot”, will cause the issue you describe. Popular modification in converting to DAO, for PPC shooting.

I’d find someone who’s familiar with Smith revolvers to take a look at it. They’re usually easy to fix if you have the parts and know what you’re doing.
Unfortunately, parts for older Smiths are becoming increasingly hard to come by.
Many of the new parts are mim molded and designs have been changed and new parts don’t fit older guns.

 

[straightshooterjake]

It is hard to assess the problem without the revolver in hand, but it sounds like there might be a problem with the double action sear, which is the little lever on the front of the hammer. The double action sear should be spring loaded so that it springs forward. When you have the hammer in your hand, does the double action sear move freely and spring easily to its forward most position?

 

[dwstone1227]

I ended up returning this revolver to S&W. Dealing with FedEx was a real treat. The guy at the Fed Ex drop off site tried three times on why I could not ship a firearm. I successfully answered all three of his questions. S&W have now had my revolver in hand for over 10 working days. I have heard nothing. If I do find out what was the cause of the problem I will post it.

 

[Pat Riot]

Good luck. I am sure they can fix it for you.

By the way, the S&W 19-3 Texas Rangers were made around 1973. 45 years old.

 

[dwstone1227]

I did get confirmation that S&W received my revolver. I waited one month and called to see what they had found. I was told to not expect anything, nothing for at least 9 weeks. At about 9 weeks they will contact me to see if I am willing to pay for any repairs. I own several S&W firearms. I also own a few Ruger firearms. I had to send my Ruger back and it was returned, fully repaired in less than a week. I am not impressed by S&W customer service. Good grief, a revolve rshould go bang. No exceptions.

 

[edwardware]

If they offer you a replacement, for the love of all that is Holy, please ask for the revolver back and fix it yourself. You can buy Kuhnhausen's book and learn to rebuild it; it's not that hard, and parts are still available.

The thought of a 19-3 going back into the hands of today's S&W Customer Service gives me the shivers.

 

[dwstone1227]

Thanks Edwardware. I hear you loud and clear and I will not take anything but that firearm back from S&W. I fully intend to get this back even if I have to use it as a hammer for self defense. The scary part for me is that I kept this firearm at my bedside because I considered it one of THE most reliable firearms in my possession. It will no longer ever serve in that capacity.

 

[Tony_the_tiger]

Revolvers break all the time when a tolerance on a component goes out. It's just like a car. Once back in spec, train with it and see where you land with reliability. I often train with the firearms that I depend on. Practicing means you will identify and resolve issues for when you need it. You can't run on the same pair of tires forever. You have 'em changed and you keep rolling down the road.

Best of luck. Let us know how the story ends.

 

[dwstone1227]

Well, S&W confirmed they received my revolver on 7/24/2018. I called in late August and they told me it would be 9 weeks for the PerforCenter before they evaluated the revolver. It has now been 10 weeks so I called today. So today S&W says it is now 14 to 16 weeks. I asked how they will inform me of any charges or changes to my revolver. The answer was they send me a US Mail letter detailing the corrections and costs.
If you plan on sending anything back to S&W, plan on a free lesson on being patient.

Good grief.

 

[1KPerDay]

Last time time I sent a revolver to S&W for repair it took them two tries and 6 months. YMMV

 

[SteadyD]

What has happened that has caused the wait time to be so long? A few years ago when I sent in a revolver it was gone for two weeks. Then summer before last they had a jframe of mine for over a month, but they were doing a warranty repair and also doing the trigger enhancement so I figured that was the cause for the delay. What is going on there?

 

[Jim NE]

Sorry to hear about the issues. I sent am old 681 in for work a while back, and it took a long time. I hate to say it, but my particular problem on that gun was never fully resolved.

As I recall, my vintage Colt Diamondback did something similar to the OP's 19 when I first bought it a year or so ago. On the second cylinder of ammo, I believe. So I worked the hammer and action several times with the gun empty and had no more problems during that first shooting session. (Put about 150 more rounds through it with no incident.) I believe it was a combination of caked grease, lack of use, dryness and maybe even some mild internal corrosion that caused the issue.

I took the gun home and tried to get the thing apart, but had never taken a Colt apart before and the screws were on tight. Since the gun was in excellent shape and had apparently never been disassembled before (and I didn't want to goober up the screws) I took the grips off and put some kroil into the lock work from the grip side access. Did the same from the hammer side access. After the excess had drained out, I did the same with One Step, which is a combination cleaner and lubricant for guns. I've put hundreds of rounds through it since then with absolutely no issues. Put One Step back in now and then.

When I find someone competent to do it, I'll have them take the cover off to inspect the internals. Since the action works more smoothly than when I bought it, however, the issue is likely resolved.

 

[NIGHTLORD40K]

Thanks Edwardware. I hear you loud and clear and I will not take anything but that firearm back from S&W. I fully intend to get this back even if I have to use it as a hammer for self defense. The scary part for me is that I kept this firearm at my bedside because I considered it one of THE most reliable firearms in my possession. It will no longer ever serve in that capacity.

The car manufacturer I work for makes some incredibly reliable vehicles (and a few lemons)- but even the good ones will have anomalous breakdowns. Doesn't mean it isn't a good car, but man is imperfect as are all his creations.

Do I trust my car to carry me across country? Yes.
Do I accept that it could breakdown? Sure.

I'm a pretty decent wrench monkey and halfway competent gunsmith, so I would be wary of trusting my life to a gun S&W has had their grubby paws into unless I disassembled it and double-checked their work.

Even then I would need to put a couple hundred rounds through it before it would go back in the nightstand.

On the other hand, you replace it with a brand new G4CB2000Xdm and it could fail too. New don't mean good.

Life is full of choices and you take your chances. Either way, good luck!

My nightstand has a 37 year old SIG in it. It gets inspected, cleaned, and lubed regularly, and has never failed me.......

Uhhhhhh, excuse me, need to find some wood to knock on.