S&W safety hammerless

[crazysccrmd]

I just picked this up for $226 which seems like a decent deal. It's a 3rd model, chambered in 38 S&W, sn# 105205 puts it around the early 1900's. No real rust or damage at all. Locks up tight, grip safety works, everything seems to function properly. The grips aren't numbered to the gun but are the correct hard rubber type. Now I just need to get some rounds for it.

 

[rswartsell]

I like mine. The refinish ruined collector value, which didn't exist anyway. I drop it in the pocket of a wool overcoat and i would trust the .38 S&W to 7 yards easily.

 

[Jim K]

One of the few of the early guns I would trust enough for serious use. S&W made them very well, using only the best materials. SCCRMD's is the Third Model; Rswartsell's looks like a second model but the picture is pretty small.

The second model was made 1887-1890 for about 37,350; #'s were c. 5001-42483. The third model was made 1890-1898, to the tune of about 73,500, 42484-11602.

In spite of the numbers made, nice ones are scarce and can bring $600 and up. LNIB can bring close to $1000. Original blue finish is uncommon - most were nickel.

Jim

 

[Gun Master]

I just picked this up for $226 which seems like a decent deal. It's a 3rd model, chambered in 38 S&W, sn# 105205 puts it around the early 1900's. No real rust or damage at all. Locks up tight, grip safety works, everything seems to function properly. The grips aren't numbered to the gun but are the correct hard rubber type. Now I just need to get some rounds for it.

Are you sure it was manufactured in the early 1900's ?

My info says this is indeed an S&W Safety Hammerless - 3rd Model, but the serial # puts it in the 1890-1898 production period, which is BLACK POWDER only.

Please do not attempt to shoot this revolver with smokeless powder (current modern ammo).

 

[Radagast]

1894-1898 period based on the serial numbers I've noted.

 

[Kaeto]

That is a Black Powder only gun! If it had '38 S&W CTG' on the barrel it would be able to use smokeless rounds. If you use modern rounds in that gun sooner or later it is going to become a grenade.

 

[Jim Watson]

I used to have the earlier .38 Single Action 2nd Model with spur trigger and shot it for CAS Pocket Pistol with smokeless. It did not turn into a hand grenade. David Chicoine said it would loosen up, but mine didn't at the rate I used it.

You might not think of the .38 S&W as a hard kicker but in these little guns it is.

 

[Gun Master]

Are you sure it was manufactured in the early 1900's ?

My info says this is indeed an S&W Safety Hammerless - 3rd Model, but the serial # puts it in the 1890-1898 production period, which is BLACK POWDER only.

Please do not attempt to shoot this revolver with smokeless powder (current modern ammo).

Buffulo Arms has black powder .38 S&W ammo for sale.

 

[crazysccrmd]

I'll have to recheck where I had read serial number dates, I thought it fell in around 1905ish. As far as black powder use, this one was either almost never fired or was owned by someone who meticulously cleaned it every time. There is none of the typical BP pitting or erosion you generally find on older firearms. I reload and shoot BP so it wouldn't be too hard to make my own once I get some brass.

 

[Old Fuff]

The barrel catch design shows that it's intended for black-powder only. Those made later had what S&W collectors call a "T-latch" that is stronger, and attached to the barrel, not the frame.

Shooting smokeless ammunition is unlikely to blow the gun up, but will loosen up the rigidity of the barrel/frame lock-up.

 

[Cocked & Locked]

T-latch (I think)

 

[Old Fuff]

Yup... That's the T-latch.

 

[rswartsell]

The number of rounds mine sees aren't a major concern IMHO. The monetary impact of shooting it loose eventually doesn't give me any heartburn either. YMMV

P.S. mine is still tight and functions flawlessly, for now at least.

 

[Baby Bull]

Just received this revolver in a inheritance deal. What can you tell me about it?

S&W #C486950 ctg 5" barrel six shot with deer stag grips. Appears to be nickel plated. I want to shoot it for some target practice, but need to know if modern ammo can be safely used

 

[Radagast]

Baby Bull:
That serial number indicates a fixed sight, K (medium) frame, swing out cylinder (also known as a Hand Ejector) manufactured in 1961.
Under the cylinder yoke cut out there should be a model number stamped.
If Model 10-1, 10-2, or 10-3, it is a .38 Military & Police. Caliber is .38 S&W Special and any current commercial .38 special or .38 Special +P marked ammunition should be safe to shoot in it.
If Marked Model 11 or 11-1, then it is .38/200 Military & Police in .38 S&W. This is a shorter case than the .38 Special and any current commercial .38 S&W load will be safe to shoot in the gun. It is quite overbuilt for the round, which was designed for use in comparatively fragile top break revolvers.
If marked model 12, then it is a .38 Military & Police Airweight. These have an aluminum frame. It would be prudent to only shoot standard pressure loads through it, no PlusP. There have been reports of reduced frame life in these guns when shot with PlusP loads.

There is a 'how to check out a revolver' thread stickied in this sub forum. I suggest you read it to ensure your gun is in good mechanical condition.

 

[Cornhusker77]

These are nifty old guns.
My old Lemon Squeezer.
Shipped between 1894-1896

 

[Jaymo]

Can you run Trail Boss in the BP frame Safety Hammerless?

I still want to get one. I reckon I could run BP, Pyrodex, 777, or maybe white powder (rocket candy) in it.

If Trail Boss can be safely run in one, it would be a good alternative to BP.

Not that I don't like BP. I just don't like cleaning a BP revolver.

 

[Old Fuff]

In .38 S&W caliber, Smith & Wesson made this style of revolver from 1886 to 1940. Pick one with a serial number between about 116,000 and 261,493 that's in good condition and you can shoot today's standard .38 S&W ammunition loaded with smokeless powder, or equivalent handloads recommended for top-break revolvers.

 

[Jaymo]

Now, to find one I can afford.
I found a couple of the top break Smiths in .38 S&W that have the hammer spur.
One was shot loose.
The other was in horrible condition had had been sand blasted.
The sand blasted one was only $13 at the LGS.
It was only good as a paper weight.

 

[Kaeto]

The sandblasted one has to be better than the one my dad has. It went through a fire in an old cabin.