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Safe/RSC Shopping - Looking for some advice

Discussion in 'Shooting Gear and Storage' started by FrancisV, Oct 30, 2018.

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  1. FrancisV

    FrancisV Member

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    Hi All,

    Just registered to get some info and some feedback on what I'm looking at.

    This place is just a wealth of info and I'm still reading through a lot of posts, but I am potentially considering a safe that I haven't seen mentioned here, oddly enough, so I figured I'd just start a thread as I peruse more posts.

    There are a few options in the configuration I'm looking for, but I'm relatively set on the AmSec line at this point (feel free to change my mind), but noticed the AmSec BFII7240 hasn't been brought up on this forum (nothing comes up for me anyway). I'm not sure if that's because it may just be newer, just not a good choice, or what. The BF7240 is what I'm probably going with, that's how I came across the BFII series.

    The safe will be placed with the LEFT side wall exposed, only the back and right side will be blocked by a wall, so the slightly thicker body is actually kind of interesting (though I can't tell if there's any extra steel or just other material).

    And then a couple of questions. I'm still reading more posts so if these have been answered already I'm sure I'll come across it but here goes:
    • "120-Minute Intertek Verified Fire Rating" Is this rating worth anything? Per AmSec, Intertek and UL are the best possible ratings, and this seems to be true per some sites, just wanted to know if anyone has anything to say about that.
    • The BFII is listed with a line that really peaks my curiosity "UL Level II RSC Burglary Classification (2-Man team, 10-minute test. Utilizes same tools as a TL-15)" It seems they want this to sound like this makes it equivalent to a TL-15 test. Is this the same as a regular RSC classification (I know that one is considered useless by some of the knowledgeable guys here).
    Don't want this to get any longer so I'll end off here!
     
  2. rbernie
    • Contributing Member

    rbernie Member

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    As I understand things, the RSC test uses the same tools as the TL15 test but allots a shorter time to resist ingress. I don't know much about Intertek, but UL is the accepted standard as far as I know. Also be aware that much of the damage incurred by RSC / safe contents during a fire is not just due to heat, but water and movement (structural changes causing the container to tip/fall)..
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2018
  3. FrancisV

    FrancisV Member

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    That's good to know. Fortunately I moved into a house in Florida, single story, concrete slab foundation, so falling/tipping isn't so much of a problem. A pipe break in a fire or of course flooding from one of our friendly hurricanes is a different story I suppose...
     
  4. jak67429

    jak67429 Member

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    the water damage from a fire is the fire dept putting it out. the metal gets hot and they hit it with large volume of high pressure water. everything inside gets covered in black sticky water. I am speaking from experience. None of the items in my safe were heat damaged, I managed to clean all the guns but a lot of paper and leather had to be thrown out.
     
  5. FrancisV

    FrancisV Member

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    That is really interesting, I've never thought of the fire department being a culprit. I guess it would be wise to keep critical stuff in a ziploc or other watertight container/bag.
     
  6. George P

    George P Member

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    Most safes I have seen open from L2R; if it is tight up against the right side, will you be able to open the door fully to access things on the right side?
     
  7. FrancisV

    FrancisV Member

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    I'm specifically planning on getting the hinges on the left, I think they call that left hand swing, because of that. Otherwise I'm pretty sure the door would run into the wall like you're concerned about. With the dealers I've checked that option will add 4 to 8 weeks lead time unfortunately, I guess it has to be custom ordered.

    Actually, regarding being up tight against the wall, did anyone here that has a safe up against a wall remove the baseboards to make the safe extra flush against the wall? My baseboards are half inch, so there'd be a half inch gap on the back and right hand walls of the safe, not sure if that's a security issue.

    I figure the walls might give before the safe anchors in a pry attack to tip the safe, as they're drywall / wood studs, but I'm by no means an expert in leverage vs anchor physics. :p
     
  8. George P

    George P Member

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    You could always add the thickness in lumber behind the safe inbetween the safe and wall and drill through both to secure to wall studs.
     
  9. FrancisV

    FrancisV Member

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    I'll look into that, I'll have to see if I can make that look acceptable. If I paint the wood white beforehand might hardly be noticeable.
     
  10. George P

    George P Member

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    Put it 1/3 of the way from the edge; that should hide it, and if necessary, do it on both sides. (and maybe one closer to the bottom and one closer to the top)
     
  11. FrancisV

    FrancisV Member

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    I think I got everything prepped based on the suggestions now. Just need to buy the safe.

    So no one's got any experience with the BFII line, eh?
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2018
  12. George P

    George P Member

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    Amsec has an excellent reputation
     
    Walkalong likes this.
  13. EMT40SW

    EMT40SW Member

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    My advice is alway to shop Craigslist, local locksmiths, & local safe movers. You will get a much better safe for much less money. See if you can find a used TR-15 or TR-30 safe that fits long guns or just an old school gun safe with steel not concrete. Everyone gets caught up in the Fire ratings but that is not what safes are for, they are to prevent theft. Bolt that safe down, then add alarm protection to the house, & make sure your home owners policy covers your firearms from theft & Fire.
    Check these out, lots of steel for the $:

    https://www.sturdysafe.com/

    Here is an alternative fire protection for $40 on Amazon:

    http://www.afofireballs.com/
     
  14. CapnMac

    CapnMac Member

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    Actually, I'd not worry much about a 1/2" gap at a side wall, not if the safe is anchored well down to the slab.
    50/50 chance the wall is just an interior partition only--so a hoodlum putting a long flat bar in the space is going to deform the gypsum board, then start bending toenailed studs out before a bolted down 800# or 1000# safe is going to move.

    Actually, slab thickness is really more of an issue. All too often a "4inch slab" is only the width of a 2x4, or 3 1/2" thick. However, the true thickness is whatever was left over after the beams were trenched, so it can be 8 or 9 inches deep out by a perimeter beam. You won't really know until you take the masonry drill to it.

    If you get a shallow hole, one the wedge anchor bolt just wont grab, the answer for that is just a tube of Hilti concrete epoxy away. This will be a pain if you ever move, or need to move the safe, though. So consider that option carefully.
     
  15. FrancisV

    FrancisV Member

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    Yeah, I figured that about the gypsum board giving in a pry attack.

    Either way, I cut out a nice space of baseboard to be able to put it straight against the wall, I think it'll look better in the space it's going.

    And yeah, I'm currently looking around for all places that sell safes, checking out two locksmiths today and then going from there.

    On that subject, does anyone know any reliable dealers out in the Tampa Bay area in Florida? I know a1abdj used to give private recommendations as to sellers/installers, but he hasn't been active on the board in a few years.
     
  16. George P

    George P Member

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