Discussion in 'Rifle Country' started by Huntolive, Nov 4, 2019.
Could you describe how the shotgun barrel shimming is done?
On this particular model the shotgun barrel sits inside a supporting 'loop' firmly attached to the rifle barrel.
There is a small gap around the shotgun barrel.
I literally cut a shim from a piece of a baked beans tin (it took two attempts to get the shim right), and, keeping the rolled rim on the section of tin. I then clamped one edge of this to the handle of a Sidchrome 1/2 inch drive socket handle, and used the curve, and a 16 ounce ball pein hammer, to shape the shim to match the curve of the barrel. I then tapped it in to move the end of the shotgun towards where I wanted it (up and left). The final shim was 3/8 circle, with a second small shim straight under the bottom. I tapped it in with a brass punch, and when it was correct I 'tore' the end of the shim (the rolled section) off the larger shim, and tapped it in the last little bit.
I was able to move the shotgun point of impact up and left, so the 'shot' pattern was 50/50, and a solid shot high (its a full choke, that isn't unusual), which just happened to line up with the top, centre of the ring on the scope.
On the 24C I have, I have demonstrated good accuracy, however I had the barrel reamed to a .22WMR chamber (and it is still very accurate), and the barrels shortened (due to corrosion when I bought it, beyond my ability to repair, so done by gunsmith). That has a barrel band that clamps both barrels, once I have finished doing up its stock (currently off, and part way through process) I will again align the barrels in the vertical by loosening that barrel band, and 'twisting' the barrel tips (using a large padded screwdriver), and tightening the barrel band - they were aligned before I sent it off; so I have to do that again (I was going to leave it, but it annoys me).
That one will also have the trigger honed the way I like them, whilst its apart, which improves accuracy.
Not made any more. Were made in 222, 223, 357, 30-30. All over 20. Mine is very accurate, for a break open shotgun action. 1.5 moa is the norm. Triggers are uniformly horrible with not much to be done about it. Mine is my blind hunting coyote gun or, with cast bullets, squirrel gun. Prices are going through the roof.
Not even close. 222, 55 grains at 3000, 22m, 45 @ 2000.
The trigger can be improved, you just have to be careful. Stoning the sear does work, I have done it to both mine now, to bring the trigger to a useful condition.
PS remember the movement of the shotgun barrel only has to be VERY small, because it is the impact of the adjust at 25 - 30 yards/metres that you are looking for (e.g. I need to move the 24C shotgun impact 1.5 inches! at 30m)
Also made in 22 Hornet.
What are they going for these days?
A bunch to a whole bunch.
I bought my plain 22wmr/20ga in good condition, two years ago for $350 and I considered it a steal. A 357Max/20ga with the nickled and engraved reciever was up to $800 in bidding at the same time.
I had a .357 mag over 20 Gauge and liked it, except the weld, or braze between barrels at the muzzle soon broke and I hated that, so I traded it away.
It is now a .22wmr over 20G, with the foregrip reshaped, the 20G ammunition 'hole' deepened to store cleaning gear, and the trigger improved (stoned). It turned out pretty good, with a red cedar stain, and a tung oil mix. Stripped down and all surfaces sealed, for water proofing.
It is definitely a shooter.
More likely because the were just groves for 3/8” mounts, vs drilled and tapped like the centerfire/shot gun ones, thus less likely to stay where one mounted them under heavy recoil.
The 3/8 groove may be less than 3/8th; you need multiple screws per mount, or the longer solid mount with the four screws, to keep a scope on, with the 20G.
No problem with the .22lr over .410 .
I hardly ever see them for sale locally but ran across 2 in the past 6 months and had to have them.
One was a 24D in 22/20 and the other a 24DL in 22/410.
After buying the 24DL at a pawn shop for a terrific price I checked Gunbroker and was amazed that some sold north of $1000.
You would be lucky to find a 24 in any configuration for $400 or less.
Yes, so I used very solid mounts, haven't moved yet, on either 24. Have come up with a different idea to regulate barrels, on 24C, which I will try next week. Shoots amazing groups with 20g slugs (like touching at 50m), and .22m CCI MaxiMag, just haven't got them to the same point.
It has been sitting for a while, as I was away chasing accuracy on other projects, and building a shooting buggy out of a Daihatsu F20 (was sitting, rusted out, and with the help of some sheet aluminium, rivets, new tyres, and a pipe bender is not a great shooting buggy), has literally 34,000km on it (and not been round the clock).
Sorry, missed your quote.
The noise, and perceived recoil, from the 20g solids is something (must be getting soft), however scope doesn't come back at you, and cause a problem.
The scope is only as far back as the barrel release, and that doesn't come near my face, my hands there.
Ok, trigger came up beautifully.
Never got the regulation to where I wanted it, before I put the 24C away. I have had a different thought, and will look at opening up the barrel connector, around 20g barrel (or machining a new one in aluminium), with 3 grub screws (it currently shoots low and right) or just adding one plus twisting, to adjust pressure on shotgun barrel, to regulate barrels. It is frustrating that the .22m barrel, and 20g, with solids, both give excellent accuracy, but are not regulated. Revisiting the rifle, to address this, one way or another.
The 24 series S was far easier to adjust, simply by adding shims, it remains an excellent combination gun.
I guess it depends. I have a Savage 24 .22/.410, and it is a FANTASTIC gun to teach kids with. Accurate with the open sight .22, HEAVY trigger, almost no recoil. I've taken squirrels and rabbits with it. Don't know how it is regulated, but it hasn't been noticeable with any target I've engaged. I'm not sure I have a use for a 2400, but I'm hanging on to my 24.
I had a 30-30 / 20 that did that. My spring was OK, the problem was that there was very little engagement between the locking bolt and the lug. I had to recarve the bolt stop so it moved farther forward and engaged the lug enough to keep it closed.
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