Savage Axis poor accuracy

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d2wing said:
I am thinking I should have got the $249 700 ADL in 308. Missed that boat.
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The savage typically is a good shooter. IMO some 06s can just be a bit finicky with bullet weight and load. The ones I've had all seemed to shoot best with standard load with 150-168gn sp. I tried some privi 165spbt and all of them shot great. Rounds loaded to Grand specs shot good too.
If you know someone that reloads ask them to load you some to various manufactures recommendations.
If you are shooting a more powerful round than you are use to can have an effect. Get use to it before you discount it. Having someone that is use to shooting 06 can show if it's the gun or you.
If they get similar results look into scope issues.
 
d2wing said:
I cleaned it before I shoot it. I was amazed at how dirty the barrel was.
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I think it's what ever rust preventative they spray in there after test firing. I've had a couple new savages that literally looked like they had seen hard service till the first good cleaning.

@skeeterfogger has a good point, I've never had an 06 that was super accurate, and all seemed a little picky about ammo in that they really did have a "favorite" bullet. Pretty much all of mine would do 1.5" or better, but there were usually some big gaps between different bullet weights.
Almost universally tho 165-180s, and a full case of powder for 2800-3000 (depending on bullet weight etc.) would be the sweet spot.
 
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LoonWulf said:
I think it's what ever rust preventative they spray in there after test firing. I've had a couple new savages that literally looked like they had seen hard service till the first good cleaning.

@skeeterfogger has a good point, I've never had an 06 that was super accurate, and all seemed a little picky about ammo in that they really did have a "favorite" bullet. Pretty much all of mine would do 1.5" or better, but there were usually some big gaps between different bullet weights.
Almost universally tho 165-180s, and a full case of powder for 2800-3000 (depending on bullet weight etc.) would be the sweet spot.
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Thanks.
My main experience with 06 is with the Grand. When I was in my prime of shooting I could put 4 rounds an inch apart across a 3x5 card at 100 yards using the standard military peep. After shooting other rifles with less success using various ammo it became clear to me that there was a very good reason why the Garand load was adopted. Because it works. The charge. The bullet weight and design works. Steering out of that is a set up for skewed efforts. True all shoot different. But when you can pick up any standard manufactured to military specs Grand and shoot the same ammo in any of them to such accuracy there is a reason. Granted sporting rifle can't provide that. Nature of it. But staying within reasonable parameters of the Grand load data can make the 06 sing. When I zero in my 06 I use regular square back bullets but once zeroed I put 3 or 4 boat tails down range. They are so tight grouping it's astonishing.
I've found Privi 165 spbt is my go to in any 06. It has shot great in 4 different 06s I've shot. I've never read anything claiming it's a Garand recipe but it's the only ammo, IMO, that performs like the ammo I used in my Garand. I've taken deer out to 350 yards and the only variable I ever had was my own windage calculation. But all went in the freezer.
 
The Garands an interesting system, Ive not worked with it too much.

One of the real advantages to shooting a tried and tried cartridge is that you can piggy back on the work done by generations of shooters. The .308s another that has some known good loads. As are some others.
The best load I ever had for my old 06 (1999 bdl), was basically the traditional military loading of a 150 at 2750 pushed by 4895 (book).
It's a load I've long stoped using, but that velocity range still seems to be a good spot for most of the 06s I've had/loaded for.
 
Not to say the 06 is hard to load for either, or that other velocity bullet weights don't work well. I've just found it s little pickier about stuff, especially at the top end, than other rounds.
 
LoonWulf said:
The Garands an interesting system, Ive not worked with it too much.

One of the real advantages to shooting a tried and tried cartridge is that you can piggy back on the work done by generations of shooters. The .308s another that has some known good loads. As are some others.
The best load I ever had for my old 06 (1999 bdl), was basically the traditional military loading of a 150 at 2750 pushed by 4895 (book).
It's a load I've long stoped using, but that velocity range still seems to be a good spot for most of the 06s I've had/loaded for.
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Yeah velocity can cause issues too. Have seen too many think more on how fast it goes than getting it there on target. I've just started shooting 308 and was surprised how well a 180 shoots with a slower burning powder but the 165 shoots good with a bit faster. In most cases I'm experienced with faster with heavier usually doesn't work out so well. POI to POA is way more important than velocity or burn rate. Balance of load and stability.
 
skeeterfogger said:
Yeah velocity can cause issues too. Have seen too many think more on how fast it goes than getting it there on target. I've just started shooting 308 and was surprised how well a 180 shoots with a slower burning powder but the 165 shoots good with a bit faster. In most cases I'm experienced with faster with heavier usually doesn't work out so well. POI to POA is way more important than velocity or burn rate. Balance of load and stability.
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Agreed.

I tend to be a "have cake, eat it too" reloader. In that I'll ignore an otherwise GOOD load, or rifle, if I can't get withing 50-75fps of my expected velocity.
The disadvantages to working that way is that there is a lot of middle ground I miss.

I tend towards the slower, higher energy powders. I've found that up near the edge of running out of capacity there is often a range where sd/es will drop. I THINK it has more to do with pressure curve, and combustion efficiency, than anything else.
But it's also a narrow range, and some cases/rifles just don't like playing there. I've actually got my 7mm bar running on a max load of 8133, but I've adjusted the gas system down. Best that guns ever shot and velocity is stellar.
I've also not found an 06 that liked playing like that, and while you can add bullet weight, slower powders and keep velocity fairly similar. 180grs is about where I really call it quits with the 06 case. I've had really poor luck trying that with 125-150gr bullets.

Again different system, different designs, different requirements.

I did have one fantastic load for the 208eldms in my b-14 06, but it was brutal in recoil, and heavy on pressure signs.

*Edited to fix confusing wording, lol*
 
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LoonWulf said:
Agreed, I tend to be a "have cake, eat it too" reloader. Which is why I tend towards the slower, higher energy powders. I've found that up near the edge of running out of capacity there is often a range where sd/es will drop. I THINK it has more to do with pressure curve, and combustion efficiency, than anything else.
But it's also a narrow range, and some cases/rifles just don't like playing there. I've actually got my 7mm bar running on a max load of 8133, but I've adjusted the gas system down. Best that guns ever shot and velocity is stellar.
I've also not found an 06 that liked playing like that, and while you can add bullet weight, slower powders and keep velocity fairly similar. 180grs is about where I really call it quits with the 06 case. I've had really poor luck trying that with 125-150gr bullets.

Again different system, different designs, different requirements.

I did have one fantastic load for the 208eldms in my b-14 06, but it was brutal in recoil, and heavy on pressure signs.
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Fer sure.
Like you I think 180 pretty well Max's out 30 call as far as velocity and impact performance. Like my 308 I can tell the powder used is different with the 180. You can feel it when it goes off. Not quite as sharp as the load in the 165 but still right at velocity. I don't reload so I'm not very familiar with powders and such but the years of shooting have provided plenty of understanding. What issues placement should always override personal preference.
 
I used to have a pet load but I don't shoot 30-06 much since I broke my shoulder so I don't reload. I used 4064 about a grain under max, 48.5 if I remember right, with a 165 Gr Hornady BT bullet. I don't intend to reload since this rifle will be mainly a back up for others. I was hoping for more ideas on stiffening the stock, I went to a hardware store and they suggested wood filler. I couldn't decide so it will sit for awhile. But yeah I've found that max loads aren't always the most accurate.
 
d2wing said:
I used to have a pet load but I don't shoot 30-06 much since I broke my shoulder so I don't reload. I used 4064 about a grain under max, 48.5 if I remember right, with a 165 Gr Hornady BT bullet. I don't intend to reload since this rifle will be mainly a back up for others. I was hoping for more ideas on stiffening the stock, I went to a hardware store and they suggested wood filler. I couldn't decide so it will sit for awhile. But yeah I've found that max loads aren't always the most accurate.
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I wouldn't use wood filler, unless it hardened, HARD. I've never seen one that did tho.
Bondo works well, but the liquid epoxies are easier to pour in.

Adding carbon fiber arrow shafts is also an option.
 
Took the .223 Axis out and broke it in. This is only at 25 yards, but basically stock out of the box (after degreasing and relubing) , all I did otherwise was set the trigger just above minimum.
.223 target.jpg
This is with 62 gr. SP Silver Bear. I'm sure it will tighten up with my handloads. The red dot is 3/4". I think it's a keeper, and at $80 for the gun, I can afford to try a better stock and better glass.
 
12Bravo20 said:
No. matter what you decide to do with the stock, remember to properly torque the action screws.
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? is there a torque setting?
entropy said:
Took the .223 Axis out and broke it in. This is only at 25 yards, but basically stock out of the box (after degreasing and relubing) , all I did otherwise was set the trigger just above minimum.
View attachment 935601
This is with 62 gr. SP Silver Bear. I'm sure it will tighten up with my handloads. The red dot is 3/4". I think it's a keeper, and at $80 for the gun, I can afford to try a better stock and better glass.
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12Bravo20 said:
No. matter what you decide to do with the stock, remember to properly torque the action screws.
Click to expand...

I didn't know that there are torque specs. Can someone tell me what they are?
 
Thanks. I am annoyed that I will have to find my torque wrenches. I wanted this to be cheap and easy. This could easily turn into a project rifle which is not what my intention was. Maybe if I get my motorcycles sold.
 
The 35 inch pounds is quite low and is likely less than any typical 1/4 drive wrench (typically 40 to 200). You will need a low torque wrench or a torque driver (looks like a screw driver). The 35 inch pounds is hardly more than finger tight and the information is in the Owner Manual that came with your rifle. I think it states to tighten the front screw and then the rear to the specified torque therein.

This driver should be adequate for most rifle and gunsmithing work:

https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B07YXCX5JT
 
3Crows is correct that Savage recommends starting with the front screw.

I highly recommend the Wheeler F.A.T. wrench that 3Crows linked it's range is 10-65 inch pounds. Get a good torque wrench in that range. A screw driver type such as the Wheeler or any other brand is the best. They also work great for torquing your scope base mounts and scope rings.
 
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