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Savage project rifle

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by db_tanker, Jul 26, 2020.

  1. db_tanker

    db_tanker Member

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2005
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    Willis, TX
    Hello all.

    I have just picked up a used Savage rifle for a small experiment and was hoping to get some info from those on here more experienced with these than myself.

    It appears to be an "Academy Special" Model 10 PT-SR. Not really worried as I got it for 350.00 . Trigger feels nice and the tupperware stock is...well...tupperware. Barrel length appears to be the advertised 18" so not too interested in this.

    It has the smooth barrel nut, not castellated.Ive seen folks say they cut them off, pipe wrenches...etc...is it that bad? lol

    So..this is my first Savage rifle..at the price I figure...hell it can't be that bad of a deal. I was planning on slapping some glass on it and seeing what it was like with some factory and hand loads and then start looking at what different types of calibers I could swap it out to if it performed in a mediocre fashion. 260 Remington and 250 Savage both are relatively interesting to me and both would be fun to reload for I think. Plus the fact that I would not have to change the bolt face makes it even better even though that looks relatively simple.


    SO...what say you fine folks? Was I taken? Did I get a decent deal? I know the trigger break with that accutrigger system feels mighty decent.

    D
     
  2. entropy

    entropy Member

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    You got a good buy. I'd invest in a Boyd's stock for it.
     
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  3. South Prairie Jim

    South Prairie Jim Member

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    Tuning a 260 can be a challenge for the most experienced reloader, I have a few friends that are sometimes left scratching the head but those good days are really good.
    J
     
  4. 12Bravo20

    12Bravo20 Member

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    That is a good price for a Model 10. As entropy said, look into a Boyd's stock for it. Boyd's actually makes all the laminate stocks for Savage. I say shoot the rifle as is and see how accurate it is. I have a Savage Model 12 FLV (varmint barrel) that shoots very accurately. I would change the stock out before changing out the barrel. I have several Savage rifles with the heavy varmint barrel and all of them are very accurate.

    I just looked on Academy Sports website and they are listing the rifle at $499.
     
  5. wiscoaster

    wiscoaster Member

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    I also recommend a Boyd's stock. Personal experience recommendation. 100% satisfied.
     
  6. LoonWulf
    • Contributing Member

    LoonWulf Contributing Member

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    I've done a pile of savage projects, all of them have turned out well.
    I've got the correct wrench for the round nut if you'd like to borrow it as well....I actually prefer those if I'm going to leave the gun nutted.

    The Savage 10/110s offer a lot of options in terms of what you want to do with the gun, but at the same time there's lots of opportunities to build something that you aren't really happy with.
    I'd suggest shooting the gun as is, as you were intending, and seeing what you like and don't like. Sometimes modifying a factory part makes more sense than replacing them.
    Case in point. The newer factory stocks are rather flexible, but also come with steel pillars, a good recoil pad, and generally have a good shape to them.
    Unless I'm building a heavy gun, or trying to change the look of the rifle, I find it cheaper, and easier, to just give the barrel a 1/8" gap to keep it from touching, and stiffening the forend if weight savings is not a requirement.
    If your trying to build a light rifle, the factory stock is your best option in terms of cost/weight reduction.


    I'd guess accuracy will not be an issue, but should you decide to do a barrel swap, consider what you want (think you want) each cartridge to do before ordering a barrel. Some times you may find that you really LIKE working with a round, but you built a gun that doesn't fit it's function.

    I built this gun sans planning.
    [​IMG]

    In .250 AI, and really liked shooting it. But rarely used it to hunt, because it weighed like 9lbs before scoping. I ended up giving it to a friend, who pretty much just shoots it at the range, so it's relatively heavy weight doesn't matter to him.

    Given what I ENDED up wanting (had I stoped to think about it, a 9+lb .250ai sporter, wouldn't have been it) I should have lopped 6" off the barrel and stuck with the lighter factory stock. I had fun with the build, and it came out nice, but in the end the chambering didn't fit the build as well as I'd hoped.
     
    Howland937 likes this.
  7. BWS

    BWS Member

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    Dec 6, 2017
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    526
    If the barrel nut is truly smooth;

    Wrap a cpl layers of elect tape around it,then use the right size hose clamp and tighten'r up. Then smack the clamp housing to loosen.
     
  8. BBBBill

    BBBBill Member

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    Did you buy the Midway wrench or some other one? I have wrenches for the notched nuts, but not for the smooth. Not really happy with the notched nut wrenchs as I believe that they are too narrow and don't have enough surface area in contact to avoid the possibility of damaging the nut slot edges. I thought about stacking a couple together and tacking with a spot of weld to double the surface area in contact.
     
    LoonWulf likes this.
  9. LoonWulf
    • Contributing Member

    LoonWulf Contributing Member

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    Ive just got the wheeler set, and its probably about the same. I havent noticed and real issues, but i dont generally reuse the notched nuts when doing barrel swaps on savages (so ive actually got at least one laying around). With how tight some of those nuts are on there it takes some bashing to get them loose sometimes so i could see the thinner wrench raising the edges of the nut grooves.
     
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