Scope upgrade already!

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So I gotta ask: Why limit yourself to 1-inch circles? Why not a 4-inch (or more) circle that you can see, and score based on x ring hits? Not trying to be a jerk here, but given what you describe, I'd change targets before I changed scopes. What are we missing?

Iirc he said that was the size targets used in this particular competition. Not s size he can change.

I've been trying to figure out what your best option is between the two options in your Op.

The only optic that I'm using, that's over 16x is my banner, a 100 dollar scope that has edge distortion at 16-18, and the rectical is fairly thick. Can you look through both before purchasing or are you limited to ordering sight unseen. I'm not exactly clear on if you can't see the dot targets because they're too all or if the rectical is blocking it out. If it's a rectical issueore magnification will make it worse. If you just cant see it cause it's too small then either would work, but the 6 -24 would probably work longer because of the extra 4x.
 
Yeah, I missed the OP's second post where he states this is for competition. Given the constraints, a different reticle might be in order, but I don't know that an etched reticle with an open center is available on an inexpensive scope. SWFA's MOA and MIL Quad reticles have a tiny dot in an open center. Leupold's TMOA has an open center, but you'll not find it on an inexpensive scope.
 
Sounds interesting. Got a link to the course of fire?

No this is an informal winter league set up by a group of guys at our range. $60.00 entry and winner takes all or something to that effect, though there are a couple of trophies at the end. This winter they are going to limit it to just 20 shooters.
 
Honestly I think either of those is death by 1,000 cuts for your purpose UNLESS you are sure you can win (and that’s never a guarantee). Any time my crosshairs have obscured the target I simply dial back the power till the dot shows.
 
Honestly I think either of those is death by 1,000 cuts for your purpose UNLESS you are sure you can win (and that’s never a guarantee). Any time my crosshairs have obscured the target I simply dial back the power till the dot shows.

I have no idea what you just said other than you must be using a FFP scope.
 
Got to look thru a couple different scopes today, the one that stuck out was a Vortex Viper 5-25 set to 20X at 300yds and it was superb. PST Gen 2... It is also twice the cost of the 6-24 Burris.
 
I am still struggling for an answer that satisfies myself, I believe the 6.5-20 will fill the need adequately but my mind still wants the 6-24 and I hate second guessing myself.
I hear you there. I get the same way. I have a 6x24x50 on my axis .223. It's a UTG. I was going to put the Burris on it. But the UTG works great. And it has an illuminated recticle if i ever go night hunting for yotes.
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So you all have given me much to ponder and having been able to look thru a few higher end scopes this past weekend it only added another thought. As this will be used for shooting very small targets out to 300yds where the importance is to be able to see the target. Should I maybe be looking more for a First Focal Plane scope so as to not having the reticle cover up the target objective?

One of the Bench shooters at the range also just told me. "You can't shoot what you can't see!"
 
Weaver T 36x is very popular with the short to mid range BR shooters
They are likely within everyone's budget.
That sounds like what I would most likely be considering.
Or maybe one of the other older fixed power Target scopes.

Another option is to get a scope that has gaps between the main crosshair and the stadia above or below... Then just use the top of bottom of those posts as you're zero/aiming point. Using a 6:00/12:00 hold, You should still be able to see your target even if the reticle is slightly larger than it is.


Out of curiosity I got out a few of the scopes I have and set up a targeted the max distance I can in my yard which is about 42 yards. My 16x sightron could probably have been made to work, and my 20 power meopros should be fine looking at a 1-in dot at 300 yd.
I regularly shoot for the quarter inch diamond in the middle of my circle targets at 100 yd with those scopes.
 
LoonWulf do you know the little black and orange dots that come on the Shoot N-C targets? Well basically that is what they are using for targets at 200 and 300 yards.

https://www.burrisoptics.com/scopes...es-series/fullfield-e1-riflescope-4.5-14x42mm this is the scope I have now with the E1 reticle.

Yeah those are what I use also. I KNOW I can see the 1/4" squares in the center of the target around the crosshairs of my Meoptas at 100yds. a 1" dot at 300 is .3moa or .33" at 100yds (all number are "about")

you could settle the dot on the top of the center crosshair, in the gap between it and the line above and see how that works.
I have the same scope, but mine has the LR plex.
 
A 'real' target scope will have decent to excellent glass, with fine windage and elevation adjustment 1/8 moa clicks are typical, holding point of impact is paramount, also typical are fine cross hair reticle with or without a dot. I have moa reticle as well but generally prefer the FCH -dot.

Also plenty of power either fixed or variable..
 
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Congrats ,looks like you made a fine choice . Gives you a lot of magnification for the money . Let us know how it works for you please.
 
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