:banghead: New kid on the block, here, trying to set up my .40S&W RCBS seat/crimp die for the taper crimp. I read and followed the RCBS instructions. Twice. Massively confused. How can a simple device with very few moving parts be so hard?
Quoting here:
"To adjust the seater die, place a sized, primed and powder-charged case into the shell holder and run it to the top of the press stroke. Screw the taper crimp seater die into the press until you feel it touch the mouth of the case. Back the die up one full turn and set the large lock nut. This will leave a gap between the bottom of the die and the shell holder. Lower the case and insert a bullet into the case mouth. Slowly run the case up into the seater die. Check the bullet for proper seating depth. If the bullet is not seated properly, adjust the seater plug until the proper depth is obtained. Next, adjust the die to crimp. While the uncrimped cartridge is still in the seater die, unscrew the seater plug several turns. Then screw the seater die downward until you feel it touch the mouth of the case. Lower the reloaded cartridge and adjut the seater die down about an 1/8th of a turn. Run the reloaded cartridge back into the seater die and check the crimp."
Mark me confused. After running the case to the full "up" position, and screwing the die body down until I made contact with the case (and even running the seater plug all the way down), the shortest I could get the round, with Hornady XTP bullet, was 1.135". This was no where near the 1.125 called out in the load formula. And what's with this part about backing the die out a full turn? At first, I though that I might have somehow "over-flared" the mouth when expanding the case, so that it touched the sides of the crimp die too early. But that doesn't make sense because I tried this same piece of brass several times in the seater die, which had the effect of straightening out the flare without visibly causing crimping. The closest I got to a crimping effect was to create a very slight interference fit with the bullet, which was easily extracted using a kinetic puller.
Any and all help is appreciated.
Quoting here:
"To adjust the seater die, place a sized, primed and powder-charged case into the shell holder and run it to the top of the press stroke. Screw the taper crimp seater die into the press until you feel it touch the mouth of the case. Back the die up one full turn and set the large lock nut. This will leave a gap between the bottom of the die and the shell holder. Lower the case and insert a bullet into the case mouth. Slowly run the case up into the seater die. Check the bullet for proper seating depth. If the bullet is not seated properly, adjust the seater plug until the proper depth is obtained. Next, adjust the die to crimp. While the uncrimped cartridge is still in the seater die, unscrew the seater plug several turns. Then screw the seater die downward until you feel it touch the mouth of the case. Lower the reloaded cartridge and adjut the seater die down about an 1/8th of a turn. Run the reloaded cartridge back into the seater die and check the crimp."
Mark me confused. After running the case to the full "up" position, and screwing the die body down until I made contact with the case (and even running the seater plug all the way down), the shortest I could get the round, with Hornady XTP bullet, was 1.135". This was no where near the 1.125 called out in the load formula. And what's with this part about backing the die out a full turn? At first, I though that I might have somehow "over-flared" the mouth when expanding the case, so that it touched the sides of the crimp die too early. But that doesn't make sense because I tried this same piece of brass several times in the seater die, which had the effect of straightening out the flare without visibly causing crimping. The closest I got to a crimping effect was to create a very slight interference fit with the bullet, which was easily extracted using a kinetic puller.
Any and all help is appreciated.