Second sanding, but same stain created some very dark, almost black areas...?

[Ignition Override]

Most of the Romainian .22 Trainer was probably sanded (again) with the same 220 grit. Not absolutely certain, but I might have used some 120 grit on some areas just behind the receiver. Coarser grit does allow better absorption.

Let's skip the reason for a second sanding because this will distract some people and confuse any chat.

*Note: I haven't learned the photo upload procedures.
The same Red Walnut (Minwax) oil-based stain was used this second time.

Strange that overall, the gun now has much less of the original reddish tint, seen during the First staining with Red Walnut, but those dark, "smoky-looking areas" just behind the receiver are something never seen on my three imported AKMs, which were similarly-sanded and stained with Red Walnut.

 

[BigBlue 94]

The wrist is the toughest area to stain because it has so many grain variations due to cut angle. The end grain will generally cause what you are describing.

Putting a couple coats of sealer on it then sanding back down usually will cure it before hand. It fills those pores.

Ive had clear deck stain and sealer go black on some really porous wood before. Its frustrating to say the least.

 

[wiscoaster]

The wrist also gets darkened because of the human hands' grease and dirt absorbed in that area during use. Some of the processes to extract absorbed grime from wood grain are helpful. So not to get too detailed, heat, acetone, mineral spirits, WD-40, hot water, Simple Green, steel wool, yada yada. Details in other threads. You probably have to start over if you really want to tackle that small of an area, otherwise it's not going to blend in after you hit it with any of the above.

Have you tried that Minwax "Gunstock" color stain? It's pretty aptly named.

 

[MikeInOr]

Like Bigblue94 said sanding sealer is what is used to get a more even coat of stain on end grain wood. I prefer oil bases stain for gun stocks because it usually absorbes a bit more evenly than water based stain... along with using the sanding sealer.

I have also had good luck spraying very lite coats of stain instead of the wipe on, wipe off method. Just spray a lite even coat of thinned stain then let it dry completely before putting the final finish on.

 

[Ignition Override]

Very interesting. All of that makes sense to this white-hair amateur. That Romy .22 might be beech, because when stained it can have the yellowish tint (again-I got rid of it once...) rather similar to some Enfield "Jungles" and Mosin N. "carbines" in 7.62x54R.

wiscoaster: Yes, I have a small can of the Minwax Gunstock color, but didn't think that it would create the appeal of the nice brownish-reds.
Might first try a bit of it on some other wood.

 

[DocRock]

Beech is very, very hard to get an even stain on. Gel stains, thinned with mineral spirits, applied very thinly tend to work best, but even then, an even stain is hard. Another way to go is BLO (with drying agents) with a bit of stain mixed in. Mix by coat rather than making up a big batch. When you get the desired tint in the stock, continue with BLO only. In any event, beech is tough. Good luck.

 

[Project355]

Staining can funny business. Stains can change color - some time after they're applied! I remember a Les Paul that I refinished Royal BLUE, and it started going green about a week later. After a month it was teal GREEN. Mohawk said "dichroic separation" was the cause.

Some beech has greenish streaks that might go smokey with reddish dye.

 

[wiscoaster]

....I remember a Les Paul that I refinished Royal BLUE, and it started going green about a week later. After a month it was teal GREEN. Mohawk said "dichroic separation" was the cause.

Maybe it was just that the guitar didn't like the music you were playing on it.

 

[Jackrabbit1957]

Maybe try an alcohol based stain, Woodcrafter's has a pretty good selection.

 

[BigBlue 94]

I cut the butt stock off a beech 10/22 stock and sanded the remains down to a pistol grip. Watco Danish oil turned out beautifully.

 

[WestKentucky]

*Note: I haven't learned the photo upload procedures.

At the bottom of the text box where you start or reply to a thread there’s a box that says “upload a file” click that, select your photo from wherever it is stored electronically, and it will attach. Unless you click the button to show the photo in the thread then it will be a thumbnail at the bottom of the post.

 

[Ignition Override]

WestKentucky: thanks.

After I learn to go through the first few steps after a camera plugs into the computer, will try that .
One reason I retired over two years before the max. FAA age (65) was because of high tech.

 

[BigBlue 94]

WestKentucky: thanks.

After I learn to go through the first few steps after a camera plugs into the computer, will try that .
One reason I retired over two years before the max. FAA age (65) was because of high tech.

Do you have a PC or Mac computer? I can help with PC.
Plug camera in.
Open the file browser. The button looks like a couple manila folders down on the lower menu bar.
Search for the drive that matches your camera brand or model. Usually E or F drive.
Open the folders and right click the picture you want and copy it to a new folder on your desktop. From there, the above info will get you there.

If the camera uses a removeable storage card (SD card), you can insert it into the right slot on your computer and then the process is the same.

 

[Ignition Override]

BigBlue 94: Thanks very much. Will try this later.