Security Six Problems

[USBP1969]

I recently purchased a Stainless Steel 4” Barrel Security Six from Gun Broker. It looked pristine in the 32 photos and when it arrived I was not disappointed. (I carried one in the US Border Patrol for 9 years and it served me well.)
I took it to the range and at 25 yards it grouped very badly. Then I had a fail to fire. I looked it over carefully and discovered that the barrel cylinder gap was almost non existent and the head space was huge. Ruger says that they do no longer work on the Security Six so I ordered some Power Custom washers for it, but frankly I am at a loss as to what to do with them. They work great for moving a cylinder forward on a S&W “K” Frame, but I need to move the cylinder back. Also, using a piece of leather wrapped around the knurled portion of the extract rod and channel lock pliers I have not been successful in unscrewing the extractor rod. (If I remember correctly it unscrews the opposite from a S&W, but that was back in 1985 and my memory isn’t what it used to be.)

I would sincerely appreciate whatever help ya’ll can provide.

Respectfully,
Kent Williams

 

[cheygriz]

Gunsmith!

 

[BBBBill]

What is the current end shake and headspace? Headspace can be measured with feeler gauges if you do not have headspace gauges. Min - .060", Max - .066". Barrel to cylinder gap should be .003"-.008" although .004"-.006" is better. Cylinder end shake should be no greater than .002".

I ordered some Power Custom washers for it, but frankly I am at a loss as to what to do with them. They work great for moving a cylinder forward on a S&W “K” Frame, but I need to move the cylinder back.

They do move the cylinder back just as they do on an S&W. Once the cylinder is disassembled they drop into the cylinder from the front all the way to the bottom of the yoke well. The yoke is reinstalled over them. The washers are a substitute for swaging the yoke longer. Easier for the non smith to do since he likely does not have the swage tool or reamer necessary to do it properly.

Also, using a piece of leather wrapped around the knurled portion of the extract rod and channel lock pliers I have not been successful in unscrewing the extractor rod. (If I remember correctly it unscrews the opposite from a S&W, but that was back in 1985 and my memory isn’t what it used to be.)

The ejector rod unscrews clockwise (left hand thread). Caution ! - There is a tiny washer between the ejector and ejector rod that is easily lost. Don't! The gun will not work without it. Final disassembly inside a box with a clear lid or inside a large clear plastic bag is recommended.​

Now the big question is why the gun is as it is. Has the cylinder been swapped from another gun or was it fired a lot with full power loads? Cylinders are individually fit (headspaced) to the frame at the factory by surface grinding the ratchet rear face to fit a particular frame. Then the end of the yoke barrel is shortened to set max headspace (and thereby end shake).

If you really want to do repairs on your own gun, first get the Ruger Revolvers Shop Manual by Kuhnhausen. It is available from several sources including direct from the publisher, Heritage Publishing at www.gunbooks.com. It will teach you more than you thought you could ever know about the gun.

Note - Yoke is an S&W term. The yoke is actually known as the crane on a Ruger, but what the hey. Same, same.​

 

[USBP1969]

Thanks very much Bill. Now if I can just get the extractor rod to unscrew. (Frankly, there are no real gunsmiths in this area.). Yep, I never did like the term, “Yoke,” and preferred the term Colt used, “Crane.”

-kent