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Semi-Long Range Rifle Options

Discussion in 'Rifle Country' started by viking499, Oct 11, 2019 at 8:37 PM.

  1. viking499

    viking499 Member

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    My good buddy has put a range on the back of his farm a couple weeks ago. Nothing big or fancy, just a barn for cover and targets that are slowly getting added and spaced along the path. The last Target is about 700 yards from the barn and the is the max for distance now, unless the bulldozer goes to work.

    I am a 6.5 person at heart and have been for many years. Currently have two 6.5 Swedes, both in Tikkas and a Howa Grendel that are my go to Varmint and Deer guns. Have not had the urge to jump on the Creedmore wagon and have no plans for it in my future. So, before someone jumps up and tells me I need a Creedmore......or a Glock....save your breath.;)

    Looking for opinions, ideas or recommendations..........

    So, do I play on the range with what I already have, do I look for a new toy or do I "build" something?

    If buying or building, we have all decided that our budget would be under $1000 for the entire setup with scope and all other upgrades or parts. That's part of the challenge for everyone that's going to shoot there. Just a group of common people shooting common guns trying to outshoot each other. That's where part of the fun comes in.

    If building, just go with a Savage or Remington action? Barrel options?

    Other opinions and recommendations......
     
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  2. Varminterror

    Varminterror Member

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    “Run what ya brung.” Save the $1,000 for ammo. For 0-700 yards, I’m all in with a Grendel.
     
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  3. viking499

    viking499 Member

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    That idea has crossed my mind, along with picking up a heavy barreled Howa barreled action, since all my 6.5's are standard barrels, to use for this "game". But, after I would have to add a stock, I would be in the ballpark of a CZ Varmint Grendel.
     
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  4. JeeperCreeper

    JeeperCreeper Member

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    I assembled a 6.5 Grendel using an Atheris Rifle Company upper.

    Did it for the same reasons that you're looking for. Good "budget" option with an 18" barrel
     
  5. newfalguy101

    newfalguy101 Member

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    I would use the Swede, especially if you handload.

    I would think you could run heavier bullets in the Swede vs the Grendel, which would be an advantage at longer dustance.
     
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  6. jmr40

    jmr40 Member

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    The Creedmoor is the obvious choice for someone wanting a 6.5 and looking for off the shelf rifles and ammo. I like it a lot. But if you already have a 6.5X55 that you like and you handload it doesn't offer you much of an advantage.

    If you already like Tikka the CTR is very accurate mid weight rifle. Unfortunately not available in 6.5X55. If you're happy with the accuracy you're getting with your current Tikka then just spend some of the money on better optics and use it, which is probably what I'd do. If you want to go to something closer to a dedicated target rifle you're going to have to build it if married to the 6.5X55. Not trying to push you toward the Creedmoor, but it is reasons like this why it is the better option for most people.
     
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  7. rayatphonix

    rayatphonix Member

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    I have a heavy barreled CZ in Grendel and it’s one of my favorites. I use it for targets and hunting. I’d recommend that as an option.
     
  8. viking499

    viking499 Member

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    How does it do in the accuracy department?
     
  9. Obturation
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    Obturation Contributing Member

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    See how your current rifles do, i think you'll be fine.
     
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  10. redneck2

    redneck2 Member

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    After having a safe full of rifles, most of which were rarely if ever used, I’d go with fewer guns with better optics

    in the real world, there’s probably little that one 6.5 won’t do that another one will

    you’ll gain more by hand loading than getting another gun that duplicates what you’ve got
     
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  11. Captcurt

    Captcurt Member

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    Shoot what you have and see what happens. There is absolutely nothing wrong with a Swede. You might want to try some Accubond LR's or some Bergers.
     
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  12. Bfh_auto

    Bfh_auto Member

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    Personally I would some what's left of your budget in a scope and mounts.
    I'm not sure how the stock is on your Tikka. If it's like most production guns, it would benefit from a bedding job. This is inexpensive and not difficult if you follow the directions.
    Since you shoot a 6.5x55 I'm sure you hand load. Do an meticulous load workup with your choice of powder and bullet.
    I personally like the 123 amax, but I'm limited around 440yds.
     
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  13. rayatphonix

    rayatphonix Member

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    Viking, mine is easily under an inch with handloads. 120 grain Nosler BTs are probably closer to 1/2”. I’ve never shot boxed ammo so YMMV.
     
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  14. viking499

    viking499 Member

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    Thanks all for the replies so far.

    What about optics? My most powerful scope is 18 power. Will something like that work or do I need to go a little bigger?
     
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  15. d2wing

    d2wing Member

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    A group of guys at my gun club buy Remington 700 actions, buy target barrels from a top maker and an off the shelf custom stock and a local gunsmith trues the action and assembles the parts. then they compete against each other and local matches. One small hole groups at 100 yards. Probably a little over $1000.00 but not by much.
    Otherwise I would try the Tikka. If fact I would start out with the Tikka and see where you are at.
     
  16. viking499

    viking499 Member

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    Does anyone have both Howa and CZ in the Grendel? How do they shoot and compare? Which one is your preference?
     
  17. TikkaShooter

    TikkaShooter Member

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    As you can see by my alias, I love Tikka rifles. I'm an AA or accuracy addict.

    IMO, you can't go wrong with a Tikka; however, there are a lot of others you can't go wrong with either. The acid test of a rifle is the size of its group.

    My only reservation is caliber as there are so many new calibers on the market today; which ones will be there in time? For example, I have a early 1960s Sako in 222 R mag. It is as accurate as any 222 caliber with more FPS than .223 or 5,56; however it didn't make the cut.

     
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  18. earlthegoat2

    earlthegoat2 Member

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    Saw a Herters (commercial Mauser action) .264 Win Mag with Leupold M8 6X scope for $900 at a gun show earlier this year.....
     
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  19. LAH

    LAH Member

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    Rebarrel the Howa to a heavier profile & maybe a different stock installed properly.
     
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  20. Walkalong

    Walkalong Moderator

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    Sometimes a little more is nice, but that is plenty for 700 yards.
     
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  21. redneck2

    redneck2 Member

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    True, but That’s assuming it’s decent quality. I’ve had a couple cheap higher power scopes. Once you compare them to a good quality scope, the difference is blatantly obvious
     
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  22. Varminterror

    Varminterror Member

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    It will largely depend on the size of your target, the quality of your scope, your shooting conditions, your personal eyesight condition, and your personal tolerance, but 18x should be right in the sweet spot.

    For me, personally, 700-750 tends to be a tipping point, beyond 700, I’ll catch myself zooming to my max (21, 25, 27, 30x), sometimes even at 700 for smaller targets, but USUALLY I do my 300-700yrd shooting at 15-18x. Frankly, I often shoot under 100yrds at 15-18x. My eyes suck, and I tend to punish myself by carrying lighter targets out to the field - which means they end up being small at range, and harder to see.
     
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  23. Walkalong

    Walkalong Moderator

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    Yea, when the power goes up, the difference in glass shows up even more, the higher you go, the more obvious it is.
     
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  24. TikkaShooter

    TikkaShooter Member

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    Unless it has changed...
    The reason the military used to use 10x is mirage. I believe 12X is the highest magnification which is not affected by mirage. Hopefully, more knowledgeable minds than mine will weigh in.

    Interesting read, but not 100% spot on.
    https://loadoutroom.com/12938/snipers-mirage-tip-week/

    Mirage can be somewhat eliminated with a sun shade or ARD (anti reflection device).
    There are 2 cures for mirage.
    A. less magnification
    B. Wait for a cooler day. :D
     
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  25. Varminterror

    Varminterror Member

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    This isn’t a thing. At all.

    Nor is this.

    Mirage has absolutely nothing to do with any scope. The light is bent (refracted) by passing through regions of changing air temperatures (and resulting densities). No scope can fix that.

    An ARD, effectively a polarizer, can reduce glare in the scope, but it cannot reduce mirage. You can reduce the glare from a mirage layer to see through the layer slightly better, but the light passing through thermal variances is still being bent. The target might have been glazed by glare without the ARD, and you might see it a bit better with it, but that target might still not be located where it appears, as the light is bent on its way to the shooter.

    It is true, at lower magnifications, the shooter might not be able to perceive the mirage as well as they can at higher magnification, and it is true, that twitchy mirage can be distracting to the shooter, but the statements above are pure bunk.
     
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