Series 70 1911 / Wilson Combat Springs

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Kenton38

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Good afternoon!

I just finished installing a Wilson Combat firing pin spring, as well as a #18 recoil spring and “Shock buff,” on a series 70 Colt 1911 (1971). I just recently acquired the Colt, which was most definitely shot and carried quite a bit in its time. I decided it would be best to replace the springs because of that.

After complete reassembly, I’ve found that upon hitting the slide release on a locked back action, the slide will engage cleanly. However, the hammer will drop to half cock almost every time.

My knowledge in regards to 1911’s is almost totally theoretical, and this is the first one I’ve owned. Could this be an issue caused by an old mainspring? Or is the #18 too stout a recoil spring for an older Colt? I do know how to properly reassemble the firearm, so I don’t believe this issue is caused by my own ignorance, but I could be wrong.

I also have a #10 Wilson Combat recoil spring, which I have not tried yet.

Any assistance or advice would be greatly appreciated. If pictures are desired, I can provide.

Thanks!
 
So you're saying when you used the slide release to drop the slide on an empty chamber, the hammer follows and drops to half-cock? Does the pistol do this when you drop the slide to chamber a round?

Sear spring leaf, probably. But there can be other causes. Insufficient hammer-sear engagement, sear tip and/or hammer hooks aren't profiled correctly. Even simply trigger bounce with a strong recoil spring and empty chamber... Don't know why you'd go with an 18# in an old Colt. No reason to go to a heavier recoil spring in an older Series 70; 16# is standard with stock mainspring. (Or use Shok-Buffs, either for that matter).
 
So you're saying when you used the slide release to drop the slide on an empty chamber, the hammer follows and drops to half-cock? Does the pistol do this when you drop the slide to chamber a round?

Sear spring leaf, probably. But there can be other causes. Insufficient hammer-sear engagement, sear tip and/or hammer hooks aren't profiled correctly. Even simply trigger bounce with a strong recoil spring and empty chamber... Don't know why you'd go with an 18# in an old Colt. No reason to go to a heavier recoil spring in an older Series 70; 16# is standard with stock mainspring. (Or use Shok-Buffs, either for that matter).

Yes, *almost* every time I use the slide release the hammer follows it to half cock. I have only tried it with an empty chamber, because I can’t get to the range today and I don’t have any other safe place to test it out.

I went with a #18 because that’s what came in the Wilson Combat spring replacement kit. Like I said, I have no practical knowledge with 1911’s. I bought that with the Shock-Buffs because I was told that was a good option to extend the life of an old 1911.

So it seems like my first order of business should be to get a #16 recoil spring. I’ve never had the issue with the original spring in the firearm, so I’m willing to bet it’s probably trigger bounce.
 
You were sold snake oil.. drink it and enjoy or try to wear the gun out..
I’ll probably just leave it in. Can’t hurt it. ;)
Thanks for educating me on the pointlessness of my purchase I guess. At least I got another magazine and firing pin spring, so it wasn’t a completely wasted package.
 
A little update. I replaced the #18 spring with the #10 spring. Same issue… When I hit the slide release the hammer will follow to half cock *most of the time* but not every time. If I hold the slide back all the way and release, without locking the slide, it will function normally with no hammer follow.

Interestingly, the #10 spring is significantly stiffer, and a bit longer, than the recoil spring which was originally in the pistol. I’m assuming the recoil spring that was in it is original, but I don’t know. Could that mean anything useful?
 
It's been ten years or more since I've even seen anyone using a Shok-Buff. For a while, lots of contentious discussion (archived on the older gun forums) regarding this item. I don't personally know anyone who still uses them (and I know a lot of old 1911 guys, including some who put thousands of rounds downrange a month in competition). The Wilson product had a reputation for shredding after only a few hundred rounds, and gumming up pistols (don't know if they've improved 'em, but like I said, don't know a soul who still use 'em). Some pistols wouldn't run a lick with a shock buffer installed, automatically inducing malfunctions (Kimbers especially).

The one pistol proven to actually need the Shok-Buff was/is the venerable Star PD (a wonderful compact .45, sadly no longer made).

I do like a lot of Wilson products; the company has put out a ton of great stuff, and their 1911 (the 47 series and ETMs in particular) magazines are superb (though cost twice as much as everyone else's).
 
I have the same gun. No changes have been made since it came from Colt, same springs. Shooting 3.8 grs Bullseye, 200 gr lswc. Starline brass WLP.

About 5 or 10 years ago had to bend the extractor, to get it working correctly.

Stop using the slide release. Sling shot it.

Don't let slide slam on an empty chamber. If trigger pull weight is lighter then 3.5 pounds, & gun fires when chambering a round from the magazine, stop, see a gunsmith.
 
nterestingly, the #10 spring is significantly stiffer, and a bit longer, than the recoil spring which was originally in the pistol. I’m assuming the recoil spring that was in it is original, but I don’t know. Could that mean anything useful?
Springs do get compressed and weaken over time.

The question is, are you getting the hammer follow dropping the slide on a loaded mag? If it still does it then, you could have worn hammer notch or sear angle. Sounding more and more like a hammer sear interface issue.
 
Was the mainspring housing and sear spring disassembled recently?
 
Springs do get compressed and weaken over time.

The question is, are you getting the hammer follow dropping the slide on a loaded mag? If it still does it then, you could have worn hammer notch or sear angle. Sounding more and more like a hammer sear interface issue.
So after doing some testing…
I have now tested the issue with loaded magazines. So far, I have not had the issue occur a single time with loaded magazines. The only time it occurs is with empty magazines, or no magazine.
 
Was the mainspring housing and sear spring disassembled recently?
Not by me. I don’t believe it was by the store I purchased it from.
However… it was sold to me with a .38 Super conversion kit. Slide, barrel, and firing pin. I guess it’s possible whoever owned it before me may have had some preliminary work done to it for a conversion. But I really have no idea.
 
Have you tried dry firing then cycling the slide while holding the trigger back (not allowing reset)?
Yes. Functions fine. The only issue seems to be dropping the slide on an empty chamber with the slide release.
 
I have the same gun. No changes have been made since it came from Colt, same springs. Shooting 3.8 grs Bullseye, 200 gr lswc. Starline brass WLP.

About 5 or 10 years ago had to bend the extractor, to get it working correctly.

Stop using the slide release. Sling shot it.

Don't let slide slam on an empty chamber. If trigger pull weight is lighter then 3.5 pounds, & gun fires when chambering a round from the magazine, stop, see a gunsmith.
I normally only sling shot when I’m actually shooting. That’s how I was trained in the academy, so I’m not too worried about that. I’ll keep in mind that maybe it isn’t as fragile a gun as I’ve been led to believe. Thanks!
 
Yes. Functions fine. The only issue seems to be dropping the slide on an empty chamber with the slide release.
Get thee to a real 1911 'smith post haste. One of the final tests when fitting new fire control parts to a 1911 is to drop the slide several times on an empty chamber. If the hammer follows, even once, the geometry of the hammer/sear engagement is verified and the leaf spring weight is checked. If you're not comfortable doing 1911 gunsmithing take it to someone who is and fix the problem.

As was already pointed out, a 1911 is not a Glock. Do not drop the slide on an empty chamber unless you're installing new fire control parts. Doing so over time will eventually beat the crap out of the delicate hammer/sear engagement surfaces and ruin the trigger pull.
 
You received some good advice and some strong opinions. The thing I would stress to you is that if the hammer follows a dropped or “slingshot “ slide that is a failed safety test. It should not occur with or without ammo.
It sounds like a weak sear spring. Consider taking it to a gunsmith.
 
Get thee to a real 1911 'smith post haste. One of the final tests when fitting new fire control parts to a 1911 is to drop the slide several times on an empty chamber. If the hammer follows, even once, the geometry of the hammer/sear engagement is verified and the leaf spring weight is checked. If you're not comfortable doing 1911 gunsmithing take it to someone who is and fix the problem.

As was already pointed out, a 1911 is not a Glock. Do not drop the slide on an empty chamber unless you're installing new fire control parts. Doing so over time will eventually beat the crap out of the delicate hammer/sear engagement surfaces and ruin the trigger pull.
I’ll go ahead and take it to a good gunsmith I use. Thanks everybody for the advice!
 
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