Shooting circular sawblades with the slingshot

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JoergS

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Circular sawblades are about as dangerous to be shot from a slingshot as it gets. Heavy. Sharp. Unpredictable in flight.

Seems like the perfect challenge for us here at The Slingshot Channel!

It turned out quickly that rotational speed is needed in order to stabilize the flight of the blade. Otherwise it will tumble and loose speed quickly, as shown in two slow motion scenes. So a special weapon was devised that adds this rotation to the saw blade, and the effect is quite impressive.

A shot of the blade into a watermelon demonstrates the destructional potential of this slingshot invention.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JrHFxscunOA
 
Joerg,

I really appreciate your patience and your ideas! It takes much perseverance and ingenuity to come up with all the things you have invented and created!

I often get a loud laugh when I see what it is you are pulling out THIS TIME!


LOL!

Keep up the good work, I love it!


;)


PS I'm glad I don't live next door, I would always be at your house helping you with the ideas! I also wouldn't like a big slice out of my wife's car fender!
 
Now to make the blade separate from the middle wooden piece before leaving the slingshot!
 
I'm in awe.

Now if we could put that creative genius to use on other things like time travel!
 
My wife and I were watching a movie the other day. At one part a sword goes sailing through the air and sticks into a tree. My wife turns to me and asks, "Where's Joerg?"

Next you need to do billard balls.

mole
 
Awesome. I really did laugh out loud.

Have you done a canister slingshot yet?
 
The rubberized/stabilized slingshot must be the NATO version. The Russian version is the one without stabilization to induce yaw to the sawblade
 
Shooting circular sawblades with the slingshot
Click to expand...
"Here, hold my beer, watch this!"

I'd add a front vertical foregrip, I cringed at the thought of my fingers that close to a spinning saw blade.

Be carefull, we'll be getting the BATFE-SB
and we'll have to have a permit to go to Home Depot.

But......to sum it up in a word: COOL!
 
Last edited:
Joerg,

Is there a practical way to slide the dowel from the saw? Maybe fasten the rod attachment with strong magnets, and have a stop to strip the dowel pieces as the saw exits the track?

John
 
My upcoming new projects is shooting large diameter (.79") aluminum tubes, sharpened on one end, with internal fins for compactness so I can fire a few of them at the same time.

Working name is "Flesh Sampler 3000".

What do you guys think?
 
My upcoming new projects is shooting large diameter (.79") aluminum tubes, sharpened on one end, with internal fins for compactness so I can fire a few of them at the same time.

Working name is "Flesh Sampler 3000".

What do you guys think?
Click to expand...

Hhhmmmm... The corpses would look like they were killed by lamprey eels, which would throw the forensics people off your trail!
 
I think the aluminum, being low-density, will bleed velocity very quickly.
 
JoergS said:
My upcoming new projects is shooting large diameter (.79") aluminum tubes, sharpened on one end, with internal fins for compactness so I can fire a few of them at the same time.

Working name is "Flesh Sampler 3000".

What do you guys think?
Click to expand...
Is that for taking core-samples of the bad guy's body?

LOL
 
Amazing job, Joerg! You're like Gordon Freeman in
Half-Life 2 in Ravenholm. Apart from the beard
and the glasses, of course. :fire::evil::fire::evil::fire::evil:

About your next project involving simultaneous launching
of multiple .79 alu pipes: Sadly, the internal stabilizator
fins wouldn't work, because the flow inside the pipe
is always parallel(roughly) to the wall and any fins.
Your problem is well known from the case of multiple
unguided rocket launchers: they
use folding fins. There are two kind of those: one which
folds out about the longitudional axis, and the one which
opens like an umbrella, but instead of
a waterproof layer, there are many fins.
I guess these mechanical solutions would be prohibitively
and needlessly complicated, so I think you might
want to glue a paper tube on the end of the pipes,
the longer, the better. See drawing.
One problem: those light paper tubes should whitstand
the launching force, so should the glueing. Maybe
the rubbers can be attached to the pipes from
the front, or something.
 

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OK, got it:

I would use a paper tube with a slightly smaller (0.5 cm~0.2 inch)
diameter inside the metal tube. By this it would be protected
from the launch force. After launch, the ram air pressure
forces the inner tube out of the bigger one.* The front neck
of the inner tube should be thickened by glueing a few
additional rounds of paper around it, and the same
should be done to the rear muzzle of the bigger
tube, but from the inside. This prevents the inner
tube from falling out. The interlocking distance
along the longitudional axis must be big enough
to deal with the moment on the inner tube.
(From wind pressure, if the projectile is misaligned to
the wind.)

*If not, put something in the way of the wind,
increase the cross section of the inner tube
in the direction of the wind somehow.
 

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My upcoming new projects is shooting large diameter (.79") aluminum tubes, sharpened on one end, with internal fins for compactness so I can fire a few of them at the same time.

Working name is "Flesh Sampler 3000".

What do you guys think?
Click to expand...

I think the most simple solution is to get rid of the many pipes,
and use one with the same weight, but bigger size. You can
add stabilizing spin to it by a twisted-pair rubber launch.
See drawing again...:D
It would be a big killer rotating ring.:evil:
 

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JShirley said:
Joerg,

Is there a practical way to slide the dowel from the saw? Maybe fasten the rod attachment with strong magnets, and have a stop to strip the dowel pieces as the saw exits the track?

John
Click to expand...

Hi,

here's another idea: [attachment]

The lower dowel part (bolt) should be attached to the rubber band so that it
cannot rotate (no slip between rubber and bolt).
Upper rubber band should slip.
 

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