Some 40 years ago I cut down my Savage 110 for the same reasons. I had used it to feed my family for a number of years, and it saw the same use after cut down. Took much big game including elk, bears, and deer. Never even noticed the difference in noise or in punch - all that I can remember were one-shot kills including 700 lb elk. No prob unless the thought of a 6 pound 30/06 scares you. It does kick but I was accustomed to it and just didn't know the difference.
Short-barrel (16") .30-06 loads?
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Inebriated
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Cut it to 17", ground/sanded the muzzle, and used an emery bit from a Dremel to get rid of the burr and edge of the rifling. The crowning tool I borrowed was next to useless, it was so dull. Came out pretty good. Shot where I wanted at 25 yards, but gonna take it to 100 yards and see how it groups. Left an inch for work with proper tools, in case I messed up with the home-grown method.
Point of this post is to say that there was no flash, no real recoil increase (recoil is sharper, but not painful by any means), and hardly even a noticeable noise increase when shooting Remington 180gr factory ammo. Has a little more of a "pop" sound, compared to my 111 with 22" barrel. Whoever said it'll blast the chrome off a car 20 years away is wrong. It's not even remotely unpleasant to shoot.
Need to get a chronograph, see where the velocity is on the 180 grainers, check groupings to ensure the crown is acceptable, and then I'll go from there as far as handloads go.
Point of this post is to say that there was no flash, no real recoil increase (recoil is sharper, but not painful by any means), and hardly even a noticeable noise increase when shooting Remington 180gr factory ammo. Has a little more of a "pop" sound, compared to my 111 with 22" barrel. Whoever said it'll blast the chrome off a car 20 years away is wrong. It's not even remotely unpleasant to shoot.
Need to get a chronograph, see where the velocity is on the 180 grainers, check groupings to ensure the crown is acceptable, and then I'll go from there as far as handloads go.
Inebriated
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That's how it would seem, just looking around the internet. But it's actually much less obnoxious than a cut-down Mosin, and just a joy to shoot. I love the way the rifle handles. You're probably right, I'm sure it'll end up a favorite, once I get the rest of the project complete (stock modifications, paint, need a good optic, etc).
pseudonymity
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I have to say, this was my first thought also. I think it is probably pretty powder and load dependent though. I was at the range a few weeks ago when I heard (and felt) a pretty impressive round going off. I was at the 100yd line and the shooter was at the 50yd line - those lines are about 15 yds apart, and each is roofed and there is a small storage room between the two, so I could not see the shooter directly.
I expected something relatively large - maybe .338WM or bigger. This was definitely more sound level than you get from a .300RUM bolt with a 24" barrel. Even separated by the storage room, the pants legs on my jeans would actually vibrate slightly with each shot. To my surprise, when I go over to the other line, the gentleman is shooting cheap Russian ammo in a stock Saiga in .308 with the 16" barrel. I was shooting .308 that day also out of a 22" barrel, and in terms of sound pressure the two rifles were not even in the same league.
Inebriated
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Used a hacksaw with a 90* guide I made up. Took about 5 minutes. 10, if you count the 5 or so I had to take to go kill a snake in the middle of the job. Followed with bench grinder to square the muzzle face and radius the outer edge. Then sanded with 60 all the way up to 400 grit. Used the Dremel bit to get rid of the burr at the end of the rifling, and the 400 grit paper to smooth it all up. 25 yard results seemed promising, but I won't really know if I did an acceptable job until middle of next week when I can get out to the 100 and 200 yard ranges. If I'm not pleased, this cost me nothing, and half of the job is done. I can always go to a 'smith to crown it properly, or just buy my own crowning tool depending on 'smith cost. Hopefully though, it'll work as I need it to.joeschmoe said:
Overall, was a fun project to do, even if it does end up needing correction.
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MSgtEgress
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With out a professional crown job I wager you cant keep 5 shots in a 6" circle at 100yd
Inebriated
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We'll find out.
Kevin Rohrer
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So, you don't like your eyebrows?
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Catpop
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I used to cut mud plugged and bulged barrels in the 70's the same way- hacksaw, machinist square, brownell cutter and pilot. One inch 100 yard groups the norm. You should have no problems if it square with the bore and the rifling is sharp! Enjoy!
As long as the muzzle is free of burrs and concentric, there should be no issues at all.
It will shoot fine. As to loads. The powder that gives you the best velocity from a 24" barrel will give you the best velocity from your 17" barrel. I load H4350 for my 30-06 rifles and can still get a little over 2900 fps with 150's from my 20" 30-06. You should still be able to get at least 2800 fps from your 17" gun. It will still beat 24" 308 factory loads, although it will be a bit loud.
Smaller caliber, same situation.I have a Win.Model 70 24 inch barreled rifle in .243 caliber.I bought a Ruger M77 with a 16 1/2 inch barrel in .243.Its laminated and stainless.I carry it on deer drives and in wet weather.It is louder but not uncomfortable..243 is a necked down .308.I've taken 2 deer with it.I've taken 40 deer with the Winchester.At the range it is often more accurate than the Winchester.
jerkface11
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This.
jaysouth
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I hunt with a Remington 7600P. It is .308 with a 16.5 inch barrel. With full pressure factory loads it is a little noisy.
However there is a distinct advantage to the short barrel. A deer shot under 20 yards will be cooked medium rare by the time you can get down from the stand.
However there is a distinct advantage to the short barrel. A deer shot under 20 yards will be cooked medium rare by the time you can get down from the stand.
Sheepdog1968
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For what it's worth I took a 30-30 Marlin and had the 20" barrel cut to 16.75". I lost about 3% of the velocity. It is so much handier this way. No regrets at all.
Inebriated
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I like the finished product. I put a red dot on it, and it's really become one of my favorites. Very light, very handy, and will become my new deer stand gun. Still nearly zero range time with it. Put 4 rounds down range several weeks ago to just see muzzle flash and recoil. Not much flash (caught a hint in low light), not much more recoil. Still easy to shoot with 180gr loads.
I'm really hoping to get out and do some groups tomorrow (weather permitting), but I probably won't be able to get any chrono data for a while. I'm just going to buy my own.
I'm really hoping to get out and do some groups tomorrow (weather permitting), but I probably won't be able to get any chrono data for a while. I'm just going to buy my own.
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RPRNY
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While it's true that the likes of H4350 will give you highest velocity even with a 17" bbl, you have created a handy woods rifle and no longer need those velocities or the fireballs that go with them. For whitetail and hogs, jacketed 150 gr flat base spitzers will do you well over something a little faster like 4198. For bear 180 gr and 4064 will be a good idea. I would be very very interested in developing a 30-40 type load for this rifle, something like a cast Lyman 311284 RNGC at @ BHN 12 - 15 over a starting jacketed load (for this bullet weight) of 4198. It will take some of the sound and light out of the equation and give you an excellent 200 yard thumped. Enjoy.
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