rbernie
Contributing Member
How do y'all go about selecting a shot wad? It sure looks like there are about ten million options, and I'll be reloading light loads (1oz or 7/8 oz) for a number of 12ga shotguns.
Shot wads
- Thread starter rbernie
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You select your wad by comparing the load data for the case you want to reload, the powder you want to use and the shot charge weight in oz's you want to shoot. Load data (recipes) need to be followed exactly for the shotguns, no experimenting and no working a load up. Do not mix cases of different brands or types within brands as the load data will usually be different for different type type cases. Data can be found on the powder companies websites or in the "free" manuals they publish.
mswestfall
Member
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2006
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Have you selected the hull, primer and powder? If so look in your reloading manual matching those components and then look at what wads are listed. Match them to want you can buy locally, via internet, etc. If you have multiple manuals you may have a bunch available to you.
If you are asking what wad reduces recoil, works with a MEC reloader best or for personal preference then that's a whole new can of worms.
I shoot Claybuster CB 1100-12 (1 oz) and Claybuster CB 1118-12 (1 1/8 oz). That's the only two loads I make. Claybusters are cheeper than Winchester's. I don't like the Winchester wads that are for 1 oz AND 1 1/8 oz. (I think it's their SL version.)
At my club Greendusters (1 oz) and Bluedusters (1 1/8 oz) wads are taking over because some people have trouble with Claybusters sticking on the internal sleve in a Winchester AA hull.
Busters and Dusters are less expensive than Winchesters.
I can't help you if you are looking for the one with the least recoil.
If you are asking what wad reduces recoil, works with a MEC reloader best or for personal preference then that's a whole new can of worms.
I shoot Claybuster CB 1100-12 (1 oz) and Claybuster CB 1118-12 (1 1/8 oz). That's the only two loads I make. Claybusters are cheeper than Winchester's. I don't like the Winchester wads that are for 1 oz AND 1 1/8 oz. (I think it's their SL version.)
At my club Greendusters (1 oz) and Bluedusters (1 1/8 oz) wads are taking over because some people have trouble with Claybusters sticking on the internal sleve in a Winchester AA hull.
Busters and Dusters are less expensive than Winchesters.
I can't help you if you are looking for the one with the least recoil.
OP
OP
rbernie
Contributing Member
In looking at the Alliant load data, all of the loads listed for a given shot/powder/hull combination provide harmonized end results, at least in terms of velocity. Unlike metallic cartridge loading, I can't just look at the shot shell load data and 'see' which components will give the desired performance. The shot shell data all looks the same, at least in terms of velocity.
Given that the load data itself doesn't offer a discriminator between wads for a given hull/powder/shot quantity, I'm kinda lost on how to pick a decent wad with which I will likely be happy. I presume that 'best' in this case is quantified as some combination of downrange pattern performance, ease of reloading, and economy.
ReloaderFred
Member
You probably need to buy the Lyman Shotshell Manual. Then you can go through the hundreds of loads and pick what works for you and then buy what the data recommends.
I did this in looking for a light 7/8 oz. load for Cowboy Action Shooting and it worked like a charm. Now some of the local trap shooters are using the same load I came up with for shooting steel targets and are breaking birds just as well as they did with their 1 1/8 oz. loads.
Hope this helps.
Fred
I did this in looking for a light 7/8 oz. load for Cowboy Action Shooting and it worked like a charm. Now some of the local trap shooters are using the same load I came up with for shooting steel targets and are breaking birds just as well as they did with their 1 1/8 oz. loads.
Hope this helps.
Fred
Shotshell loads are divided by shot weight then dram equivalent of smokless powder which is measured by velocity not pressure. (example 12 ga-1 1/4 oz 3 1/2 dram.) Going with loads deemed target, hunting, ect will show different dram equivelent velocities with same wgt shot charge.
The components used in shotshell reloading are very important and must not vary from the book. The wad not only buffers the shot but places the colum at the right height for a tight crimp. Primers and powder charges are matched to give the velocity level desired at safe pressure. The base height of the case will determin the wad needed for a given shot wgt, and a Federal hull will need a different wad then a Remington for the same load bescause of this.
You`re right in thinking shotshell load performance is decided by pattern density, and proper shot size at velocity at the target.
The components used in shotshell reloading are very important and must not vary from the book. The wad not only buffers the shot but places the colum at the right height for a tight crimp. Primers and powder charges are matched to give the velocity level desired at safe pressure. The base height of the case will determin the wad needed for a given shot wgt, and a Federal hull will need a different wad then a Remington for the same load bescause of this.
You`re right in thinking shotshell load performance is decided by pattern density, and proper shot size at velocity at the target.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Going from the Alliant load data, you can't go far wrong if you just pick the factory wad for the brand & type of case you are using.
Winchester AA case + 1 1/8 oz + Red Dot powder = WInchester WAA12 wad.
Remington STS + 1 1/8 oz + Red Dot = Remington RXP12 wad.
After-market & off-brand wads often are cheaper, and often give the same performance, but:
Until you gain some experience, do yourself a favor and stick with the same brand of wad & case.
They were made for each other!
rcmodel
Winchester AA case + 1 1/8 oz + Red Dot powder = WInchester WAA12 wad.
Remington STS + 1 1/8 oz + Red Dot = Remington RXP12 wad.
After-market & off-brand wads often are cheaper, and often give the same performance, but:
Until you gain some experience, do yourself a favor and stick with the same brand of wad & case.
They were made for each other!
rcmodel
I load nothing but 1 oz. loads for sporting clays, and use the pink Claybuster wad for that. Cheaper than other wads, and I have had no problems. A few years ago, I loaded up a bag of those Winchester gray wads for the 7/8 oz. loads, but didn't care for the way they shot.
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