Shotgun hulls question

[The Freeholder]

Son is preping to try out for the HS skeet team next year, so I'm preping to be able to support this venture. I'm planning on doing as much reloading as possible, and I've been reading up on shotgun reloading. 20 guage, if it matters.

I've noted that each load calls for a specific primer and type/amount for a specific type of hull. I understand why.

My question is this--I have access to nearly unlimited range pickup hulls. I get everything from really good stuff (AA and STS, for example) to the cheap stuff from Wally World. Unfortunately, the number of good hulls vs cheap ones is 100:1.

None of the cheap hulls aren on the reloading recipe lists that I can find. Does anyone have any clue as to which "good" hull a given cheapie is like (Remington Game Loads are the same as STS, just that the hulls won't take as many reloadings)? Or should I just pony up for a 1000 once-fired STS hulls and stop trying to join the Silas Marner Reloading Society?

 

[Waldog]

AA and STS hulls will get you 8-10 reloads. Some cheapie hulls can be reloaded and some can't. Example of those that can't be reloaded are those hulls that have been "heat sealed" recognizable from the melted circle in the middle of the crimp. Other cheapie hulls will get you 2-4 reloads. Example of those are Remington "Dove" or "game" loads. These hulls are "ribbed" on the outside. The best bet is to buy STS or AA factory shells by the case and save those to reload. Win AA used to be the "Top Dog" on reloadable hulls. However, they changed their tooling a couple of years ago and now those hulls are no way near as good as the old AA hulls. Remingtom STS hulls now are King.

 

[loadedround]

The cheapy hulls are not listed for a reason. Stick with the Remington, Winchester and the Federal ones if you can. Don't make problems for yourself.

 

[mgkdrgn]

Don't bother wit the "cheapies".

1) buy loaded ammo (pick -a brand- and stick to it), and save your hulls
2) buy empty once-fired hulls (again, buy a brand and stick to it)

Some 20 years ago when I was shooting in a trap league, I did a lot of reloading. I was using Remington Hulls at the time ... because that is what I had. It -was- a little easier separate mine from all the others 'cause the AA's were red and mine were green. However, it was a little tougher to find them all in the grass.

At that time the Remington and AA used different primers, not sure if that is still the case, but suspect it is.

To get consistent results, use the same powder, same wad, same hull, same primer ... all the time. Buy in bulk ... none of the above goes bad.

 

[Randy1911]

Lyman makes a good shotshell reloading manual. Get it. It has a good section on shell identification. It will give you specfic loads for each type of hull as well as different load data.

I agree with Waldog, the Rem. STS hulls are the best thing going right now IMO.

MEC makes a good reloading press. I like the Sizemaster. If you get the univeral charge bar (available at www.midwayusa.com ) you won't have to mess with all the different powder bushing and can get the exact powder charge load you want.

 

[jk2008]

Similar problem...

I recently inherited some shotgun reloading equipment and components. Most of the equipment seems straight-forward (I've been reloading metallic cartridges for a while and the processes seem similar).

My questions are about the components.

I received gunpowder for shot shells (Hercules Hurco and Red Dot--4 lbs each) that is probably a couple of decades old at least. Is it still good?

I also received several hundred (maybe over a thousand) empty shells. Is there a quick way to tell which are worth reloading and which are not (high brass vs low brass maybe)? I'm not a big shotgunner so I don't imagine I'll be loading all that much. If some of these shells are worthless, I'd like to toss them and free up the space in the reloading room.

Thanks in advance for any wisdom you care to share.

 

[627PCFan]

Powder doesn't go bad much unless its improperly stored. Smell it, you will know if its bad.

Shells, toss your oldies and get new ones so you know for sure what your working with.

 

[rcmodel]

There is no difference in high or low brass shells, if the internal volume is the same.

For years, I loaded AA hulls only for target work.

And anything & everything I could pick up for heavy hunting loads.

I sectioned each type of hull lengthwise & mounted them on a board above my bench so I could compare internal volume & base wad type.
Which is what determines what wad to use in each.
Which is all you need to know anyway.

By doing this, I could lose the odd-ball hunting hulls in the weeds with nothing lost.

rc

 

[ants]

Thanks, rc

Well, nothing wrong with being cheap. I'm cheap.

With proper hull identification (rc model's post above) and the Lyman shotshell book, you can load the cheapies for field and everyday practice. Save the AA and STS for competition and for practice rounds leading up to the shoot. Don't let your son get bad habits from lousy ammo, but letting him shoot more is better than shooting less.

Either way, pattern your loads. Not every load in the book will deliver the consistent pattern your son needs. Some of the cheap hulls will never work, but many of them work great. You'll have to experiment a little. It will be worth it.

 

[mgkdrgn]

Is there a quick way to tell which are worth reloading and which are not (high brass vs low brass maybe)?

The low brass are easier to reload, just because you don't have to size so much brass. You =can= load them all ... but life sure is a lot easier when you stick to one particular hull. (learned the hard way with my MEC 600Jr)

 

[berettashotgun]

A cardboard base wad filler in the hull is a crappy hull to reload.
I love STS hulls and *wish* they were orange - picking up empties in the weeds (dead or alive) is a PITA when those gold or green hulls go flying.
Brown 10ga hulls are the worse........
Back to the topic - Fed Gold Medal hulls are my current favorite for steelshot because of the case volume and they get 5-8 reloads with some stiff powder charges. AND I have 2 dishwasher boxes full of once fired......
The old activ hulls are excellent, but good luck locating any. They were good for 10+ duck reloads. From an O/U, autoloaders chewed up the rim a little.
Most of the cheap hulls reload a few times - BUT _ BUT_ BUT CHECK the hull volume, you will have a little learning curve on the crimp.
Stay away from hulls with the filler base wad made from paper - especially if it has ever gotten wet. Good way to screw up a barrel - seen it. That filler wad has a way of coming loose and sticking in the forcing cone - not good for the next shot:banghead:

 

[rcmodel]

A cardboard base wad filler in the hull is a crappy hull to reload.

About the only game in town when I started reloading shotgun 40 years ago.

There is nothing wrong with them, unless you insist on loading them until the primers fall out.

Back in the day, the paper shells would often burn through or the crimp come off before the base wad gave up completely.

rc

 

[oneounceload]

AA and STS would be my first choices with gun clubs coming in second - right now I reload both AA and GC in 20 and AA in 28 gauge.

One thing to watch with range puick ups is how long have they been on the ground. Here in humid, rainy FL, if I didn't see it hit the ground, I leave it since moisture can be on the inside and throw a monkeywrench to your reloads