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Should I trim them all to match?

Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by swampcrawler, Jun 14, 2013.

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  1. swampcrawler

    swampcrawler Member

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    Got 200 pieces of unfired 357 max brass. Should I find the shortest and trim them all to match or will it not affect anything? Brass is kinda hard to come by right now so I want to get the most out of each loading. Don't want to blow up all my brass trying to find an accurate hunting load.
     
  2. KansasSasquatch

    KansasSasquatch Member

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    Size them all first even if they aren't fired. Then grab about 20 random pieces. If they're all within a few thousandths I wouldn't worry about trimming.
     
  3. cfullgraf

    cfullgraf Member

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    Uniform case length will give uniform crimp case to case.

    Assuming you are shooting the 357 Max in a revolver, you would want a good roll crimp. If the cases are the same length, it is easier to do.

    In a single shot firearm such as a Contender, a taper crimp to remove the mouth belling would probably be adequate. In this case, uniform case length is not as critical.
     
  4. cfullgraf

    cfullgraf Member

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    This too.
     
  5. swampcrawler

    swampcrawler Member

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    Thanks guys. It's going to a contender, and all I have is the taper crimp die so hopefully il be ok not using a roll.

    Also, totally different question, how do I figure out what overall length to go for to get close to the rifling? Just follow the manual? or iv seen someone mention seating it long with little/no crimp and no powder/prime, chamber, slowly close the action, then you should end up with it kind of seated in the case to touching the lands. Or is this bull?
     
  6. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

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    Not exactly bull.
    Almost, but not quite.

    If your case neck tension is even close to as tight as it should be, you will jamb the bullet into the rifling closing it before the bullet slips in the case.

    What I would do is seat long.
    Then color the bullet ogive with a Magic-Marker, and keep seating shorter until the rifling leade stops rubbing off the marker ink when you carefully hand chamber them.

    Then seat a few thousands shorter then that to give yourself a little fudge-factor to make up for variations in bullets.

    rc
     
  7. swampcrawler

    swampcrawler Member

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    Thanks RC. That certainly clears things up. Until now my only hand loading was just cranking out 45 acp plinking ammo. Trying to be a bit more precise with something I plan to hunt with.
     
  8. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

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    The magic-marker trick works as well for .45 ACP blasting ammo, or any other caliber.

    rc
     
  9. joneb

    joneb Member

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    I trim 357 mag brass to 1.280" some of it maybe 1.278 and it is of little concern. I would approach 357 max the same way.
    Most manuals give a recommended trim length, I would consider that.
     
  10. witchhunter

    witchhunter Member

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    What are you hunting with your Maximum? Try 296/H110 it seems to work great with a 180 Sierra. I see a guy on here selling some brass, 200 pieces, was thinking of picking it up, could it be you beat me to it? Good luck with your Max, they are sweet.
     
  11. witchhunter

    witchhunter Member

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    Check load manuals, small rifle primers are recommended with some powders in the maximum. because of the higher pressure. PM me for loads if you want.
     
  12. swampcrawler

    swampcrawler Member

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    Witch hunter, I believe I did beat you to the brass. And I plan to hunt small feral hogs and small Louisiana whitetail with it. I have Remington small rifle benchrest primers that I picked up for the Max. Still need to get bullets and choose a powder. But I have till November so we should be ok. And I'll shoot you a PM after work this evening
     
  13. Hondo 60
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    Hondo 60 Member

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    Well, I wouldn't bother, but that's just my opinion.
    Some wouldn't consider NOT trimming.
     
  14. gamestalker

    gamestalker member

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    I'm one of those that has always followed the let books to a "T", and I trim all my brass. I don't always trim them to the trim too specs. though. I will find a short one, providing it isn't shorter than trim too spec., and then I trim all the rest to that length.

    For wheel gun cartridges that require a roll crimp, it provides for consistent crimps, which eliminates problems at the bench, and at the range. As for AL brass, 9mm and such, I trim just because they have a published specification, and it gives me something else to do, I like this hobby.

    And since I load nothing but jacketed bullets, with slow burning powders, and with mostly full tilt loads, I feel that keeping my brass within SAAMI spec. and the same lengths, helps to keep things more predictable and consistent, at least in my opinion.

    GS
     
  15. 4895

    4895 Member

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    IMHO

    If you only have 200 pieces of brass, I would resize them all and then trim to proper spec. It really doesn't take all that long and uniformity is a thing of beauty. Ammunition that is properly hand loaded gives the shooter more confidence and probably affects the shooters accuracy.
     
  16. 345 DeSoto

    345 DeSoto Member

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    Consistency, consistency, consistency. The closer to identical that you can make each and every round, the more optimum the accuracy...but I'm a Bench Rest accuracy kind of guy...
     
  17. flipajig

    flipajig Member

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    I don't shoot the max but I do shoot a tender in 44 mag. It was giving me fits in the accuracy department and was asking the same questions that you are. There is another Fourm page it's called Specialty Pistole Fourm great folks over there lots of max shooters also my point is you want to seat the bullet at what the books advise when loading straight walled pistol rounds forget what you know about loading rifle rounds. Also I use a roll crimp not a taper crimp.
    Flip.
     
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